Break issues (rear)

leftcoastjeff

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It's been a while, lost my internet connection when we moved our factory.
I have missed you-all.
On with the problem.

I have been leaking fluid from the rear driver side, so it has become time to do the rear breaks.
1st question; which shoes? "12" X 2.5" Brakes" or "12" X 3" Brakes."

2nd question, will I need to pull the axles with the drums?

I tried to search in the tech articles for info, any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've done drum breaks before, just not on this beast.

Any special tools needed?

This has become my daily driver, so I'm hoping to make only one trip to the Napa store

2 slave cylinders $11.88 Ea.
Shoes $31.69- $63.99
Break cleaner @ $10.00
3 pints of break fluid @ $15.00
Break adjusting tool ???

Anything else?

I really need this to be a one day repair.

Thanks in advance,

Leftcoastjeff
 

franklin2

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You have a 1987? If so, you probably have the Sterling/Ford rearend. The easiest thing to do is jack the rearend up, take one of the wheels off, and pull the drum and measure the width of the shoe. I am not sure there is a way to tell what you have with the door sticker, but that's also going to assume it's never been swapped out.

So assuming you have the Ford rearend, you do not need to pull the axle. I would still have a back-up mode of transport though, there is the good possibility when you change the wheel cylinders out, the hydraulic brake line will twist off and you will need to run back to the store and get a universal piece of line and replace it.
 

leftcoastjeff

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Thanks

Thanks for the responses, what comes in the hardware kit?

Yes the truck is the one in my signature (87 F250, 8 lugs on the wheels)

Again thank you,:hail

LCjeff
 

subway

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hardware kit replaces the springs, self adjuster mechanism, clips and little cable depending on what kit you get.

i usually throw new springs in there and anything else is as needed after that. you can re-grease up the star wheel with antisieze and clean it up with a triangle file if the star is worn down.

i would not bother with a brake adjustment tool if you have a large flat head screwdriver. there really isent anything special about our brakes, they are just bigger.
 

typ4

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almost all single wheel trucks are 2.5 shoes.
 

Knuckledragger

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Before buying a bunch of brake parts, are you sure that it is a brake problem, or do you see wet coming down the backing plate? That may be a ruined seal (which is not uncommon). Could mean brakes, too, but not necessarily. Pull the drums to check before doing anything else. A few minutes here will save time and money later. Check the drum size while you have it off, so you know if you need new ones.

If you do need to replace the wheel cylinder, use a small wire brush to clean around it and spray the brake line nut with your favorite penetrating fluid (PB blaster, wd-40, aerokroil, liquid wrench, etc.) and let it soak for a few minutes, hours or days. That will probably keep you from ruining the hard line if there is a problem.
 

franklin2

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almost all single wheel trucks are 2.5 shoes.

I did a little research, and didn't really find out anything, but I will share anyway;

My truck is a 89 f250 4x4, originally a c6 auto truck. GVWR on the sticker is 8600lb. Rear GAWR is 6084lb. Factory tires are LT235/85R16E, 16x6 rims. Axle code is C5, springs 9A. This is all off the door jamb sticker. It has 2 1/2 shoes.

The donor truck I have is a 89 f250 4x4, originally a zf 5 speed truck. All the numbers are the same on it's door tag, except axle code is 35, springs are 9F. It has 3 inch wide brake shoes.

Both are 4.10 ratio trucks. I looked up axle code c5, and it could be a 6250lb, 6340lb or a 8500lb axle. I looked up code 35, and it only shows a 8500lb axle rating. Both trucks are single rear wheel.
 

leftcoastjeff

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Thanks

The fluid is coming from the inside, between the drum and the backing plate.
Me thinks wheel cylinder, but we won't know for sure till we open it up.

Thanks again,

LCjeff

Before buying a bunch of brake parts, are you sure that it is a brake problem, or do you see wet coming down the backing plate? That may be a ruined seal (which is not uncommon). Could mean brakes, too, but not necessarily. Pull the drums to check before doing anything else. A few minutes here will save time and money later. Check the drum size while you have it off, so you know if you need new ones.

If you do need to replace the wheel cylinder, use a small wire brush to clean around it and spray the brake line nut with your favorite penetrating fluid (PB blaster, wd-40, aerokroil, liquid wrench, etc.) and let it soak for a few minutes, hours or days. That will probably keep you from ruining the hard line if there is a problem.
 

leftcoastjeff

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Oh chit!!

A good friend insisted that the rear end in my truck is a 1 ton (full floating axel) and a pain in the ass!!!:puke:

Here is a pic, please advise!!

LCjeff
 

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tom37

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I can't imagine it being any worse then any other brake job on a 3/4 or 1 ton.
I did have to pull the axle on my gasser so that I could get the drum and hub into the press to separate them.Suckers were stuck good.
Mine has 3 inch, and was a breeze. LOL I did take a picture before I tore it apart tho. Just incase.

The worst troubles I have had with the ford rearend is the dang axle seal.
Had one from Oriley, leaked bad. That was my gasser, then did one on this truck, Oriley failed again. Big leak. Took it back after I bent it a little. Then went to Ford truck center and bought the proper seal. No Leaks now.
 
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