Better cooling theory

Sidewinded_idi

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if live read my threads you know I've had a cooling issue since it's been 110+ lately. I acid boiled my radiator and cleaned the entire system and it works 100% better but on these really hot days it was still getting around 230-235, I have my heater core bypassed with the hoses simply connected together for a looped circuit.

My theory is what are the possibilities of this bypass since it uses 5/8 hose moving so much coolant it removes glow from the radiator? I ask because last night I installed a coolant filter setup in the heater circuit and the outlet on the Napa filter head is only around 1/4 inch so it must add resistance plus the filter media. But now I'm driving the truck with ac full blast same as day before and the truck is staying right at 200-210 and in the middle of the gauge instead of on the far right l,
My coolant is less than 500 miles old so I imagine it wasn't filtering contaminants my thought is the restriction is allowing the coolant to sit in the radiator properly now instead of flowing so much open the radiator is kind of like a bypass. Any thoughts I can't think of any other reason why it's cooling so much better with just adding rthe filter to new coolant
 

Sidewinded_idi

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Note I have an oil temp gauge and it and the coolant always mimic each other immediately ( our factory oil cooled works pretty good) yesterday my oil temps stayed 230+ up to a high of 250 today it hasn't topped 210
 

junk

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Interesting. I have my heater core bypassed when the a/c is on max. Next time I'm getting hot I'll try putting the a/c on normal and let it flow through the core again. See if the restriction helps.
 

Black dawg

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If your radiator was dirty enough it needed acid flushed, the oil cooler is restricting flow also.
 

OLDBULL8

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So you don't actually have a coolant temp gauge, your going by the oil temp gauge. Is that correct?
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I would agree with your assumption of the bypass stealing flow that is now going through your radiator.

Don't analyze it too much: just enjoy your truck running cooler in the hot summer heat :cheers:
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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Perhaps the filter is catching much more crap than you thought it would and the system is working better.Wait until you cut open your first filter and see all the nasty.It's pretty cool.

I added an aux oil cooler and it made a drastic difference in engine cooling.Both the oil and coolant.Even in July/August the electric fans don't need to run much anymore.

What was your combined gross weight,when your oil temp peaked 250F? Oh,and where's your sending unit?
 

Sidewinded_idi

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I was empty. This truck had severe cooling neglect when I bought it with 350k miles. It has the sidewinder kit and runs all out 13psi. She doesn't smoke or burn oil it's in great health otherwise but I think it'll need a new radiator here soon. I was thinking of an aux oil cooled where did you pull your feed and return from. Or if they make a sandwich adapter that would be perfect.

Also I'm thinking I might have a timing issue contributing to my heat. I noticed unloaded on the freeway it'll stay cool but the second I get on it hard it'll start climbing temps. With the mileage I have no idea if it's he original ip but I'm thinking with wear it could be runnin retarded. Would that contribute to the heat under throttle? And my egts even at full boost barely get to 800
 

no mufflers

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What about the fan clutch? I had to stiffen mine up, I haven't been able to get it over 195* so far.
 

no mufflers

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you add oil to it. there is a thread here on it. when I went to the PA rally I averaged 230*+ coolant temps. that was with E fans at the time but I had similar results with a conventional fan clutch. now I never notice it engage at those temps so I figured it cant be helping much. when you add oil to the clutch it makes it come on sooner or overall stay on more. so mine has a firm engagement so its always pulling a lot of air and I am happy with it so far,
 

Dieselcrawler

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20 bucks bet you wiggled wires on the inner fender while installing it. The gauge is a dumb gauge. Dirty grounds or bad connections can make them read high or low
 

G. Mann

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Question:
How many rows of tubes does your radiator have? [open radiator cap, insert finger and feel the number of rows, with cold engine, of course]

If you are running high temps, I'm betting it's the 3 row radiator... Just guessing.
 

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