Best way to install a 7 blade RV plug?

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Thanks for the info. Sounds like the setup that I have. I'll have to dig around and see if I can find the red wire. Sounds like I should be able to back track the blue wire and that should lead me right to the red one. Either way, no big deal. The red one is the only one that I don't know about yet. I see in the drawings where it goes, but I haven't looked for it yet.



I have zero confidence in any factory-supplied trailer wiring, so I tend to forget that they even exist.

If you want a trailer power system that is no-nonsense, then just route NEW wires throughout the entire system and ignore all of that wimpy factory tow-package mess.

That way, you will KNOW what wire takes care of what function. :)
 

fields_mj

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If I regularly towed a trailer, I'm sure I would do exactly that. However, between my work schedule, my wife's work schedule, Keeping this truck running, working on the house, taking care of my 2yo daughter, getting the firewood cut, the garden planted, the yard mowed, and the dogs fed, I'm doing pretty good to have enough time left over for a shower in the morning. Having enough time available to install all new wiring on anything is a pipe dream for me. I'd probably take that time and take my daughter fishing instead :)
 

Papabear

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My suggestion would be to install 7-wire round plug (for a rig) and not a spade because than and if they fail or you have issues you can find a replacement at any truck stop in North America instead of being limited to RV dealer robbery!
 

RLDSL

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Don't forget on the 6 rounds that there are 2 different wiring patterns for those so you have to keep the accessable where you can reverse two of the wires in a hurry if needed if you are hauling a lot of 6 wire units. Some of the recepticles used to come with a switch but I havne't seen those in a while.

I'd like to change out the 7 flat on my trailers to a 7 round big rig type pigtail as well, it'a a much better plug with better contact. the 7 flats always seem to need attention of some kind everytime I go out, no matter how much contact protectants I keep sprayed on them. They have poor spring tension.
I've got a 7 flat and a 6 round installed on the truck with the wires that would need to be reversed easily accessable from the rear storage compartment with bullet connectors on them so I can change them out in a matter of seconds to match the trailer, then I have a 6-4 adapter for the little trailers.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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The six-pin rounds that you speak of needing the wires swapped around have been improperly wired by someone.

Many mistakenly route the brake wire through the center "A" terminal, which is WRONG.

"A" means auxilliary; it can be the HOT wire that charges the break-away battery, reverse lights, whatever; and, that "A" wire should be somehow switch-controlled, in order to kill it whenever hooked to an incompatible trailer.


The brake connects to the "S" terminal; "S" meaning SUPPLY, as in supplying the brakes --- I guess. :dunno

The circle of terminals goes something like G (GROUND), TM (TRAILER MARKERS), LT (LEFT TURN), RT (RIGHT TURN), S (BRAKE); center is "A" (AUXILLIARY).

Although I have a top of the line controller and it is wired through all plugs and at the ready; it has been many many years since there has been an electric-braked trailer hooked onto any of my trucks; I have REAL trailer brakes, :backoff Vacuum-Over-Hydraulic :backoff , that have two big hose connections that have absolutely nothing electric about them. ;Sweet
 

Goofyexponent

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What do you guys think of the U haul hydraulic brakes that activate when the trailer
pushed up against the truck/car towing them?

I have a trailer brake controller in my truck, and I like it, but it's nothing like Midnight's setup!
 

Diesel_brad

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What do you guys think of the U haul hydraulic brakes that activate when the trailer
pushed up against the truck/car towing them?

I have a trailer brake controller in my truck, and I like it, but it's nothing like Midnight's setup!

Surge brakes? they are a nice system but they have a complete set of problems them selves. You know when a vehicle sits the undercarage tends to rust, especially brake lines. Well a trailer typically spends most of its life sitting. The brake lines have a tendancy to rot out and fail
 

wbw189

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Before you wire it up, either search online, stop at Harbor Freight or a hardware to pick up a "Pocket Ref". That little book stays with my toolbox and has been an awesome "tool" to have around. Should be 10 or 12 bucks.
 

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