Belts and water pump

HammerDown

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So got new water pump, use the gasket that came with it or just use the right stuff? the gasket that came with it looks cheap and looks to have been folded. Will the right stuff work on the threads that need to be sealed? Water pump also came with new shorter bolts that shows were to put them instead of old long ones. And can water pump be removed with fan still in place?
YES > > > use the gasket and follow the torque sequence.
The two shorter bolts go top center, you should have instructions with the reman pump...if you suspect the gasket was folded or instructions are missing take it back for another.
I use thread sealant on all the threads (just because) and again I prefer Hi-Tack on bolts and gasket.
Make SURE the gasket surface is scraped CLEAN and even wipe with brake-clean or acetone.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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For me (I've changed mine 4 times sine new in 1988) the worst part for me, is draining the coolant, because my block drains have never been out. I Attach a hose to the radiator drain nipple into a catch container.
You'll need a really large open-end 1-7/8 wrench to get the Fan off (get a cheap one from Harbor Freight and you'll have to grind it a little thinner) and it's reverse thread and you'll want to loosen the nut before you fully remove the belts. Just tap the end of the long wrench with a heavy hammer and the Nut should break-free.
The replacement water pump 'may' have two shorter top bolts, if not take note of yours and make sure u use them so the you don't accidentally run a longer bolts into the metal cover behind the water pump.
I've always used Hi-Tack on the gasket with excellent results.
All in all it's an easy job, just some steps to follow.
Does pulley have to be removed in order to remove all bolts? I’m gonna be changing mine this week.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Yes the fan can be removed still on the water pump. I've seen it several times and I'm also sure that several four letter words were used while removing the bolts this way. If you can remove the water pump with the fan still on, then you can get all of the bolts out with the pulley still on. Whether or not you need to remove the pulley in order to remove all of the bolts, you still need to transfer the pulley over to the new water pump, so why not just take it off first? Also. before you try to install the new water pump, take a flat file and gently run it (flat) over the sealing surfaces on the back side of the water pump. There can be burrs on it and I've had one leak because of this so I got to do it again. After that, I ALWAYS use the file method.
 

pelky350

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Clutch came off with the kit I borrow from a friend of mines shop the "proper" tools made it easy lol after that it took me 4 hours before I drove again with a new pump, old one had a very very small amount of play in it, I'm suspecting that it was leaking from the bolt that goes into the coolant on the bottom vs the water pump actually leaking but now my motor is even cleaner than before! And no more leaks so far. Used "the right stuff" on both sides of the gasket lightly
 

IDIBRONCO

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I try not to use a water pump if it has any play in it. The play just never seems to get better on it's own. Emergencies are another thing.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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Yes the fan can be removed still on the water pump. I've seen it several times and I'm also sure that several four letter words were used while removing the bolts this way. If you can remove the water pump with the fan still on, then you can get all of the bolts out with the pulley still on. Whether or not you need to remove the pulley in order to remove all of the bolts, you still need to transfer the pulley over to the new water pump, so why not just take it off first? Also. before you try to install the new water pump, take a flat file and gently run it (flat) over the sealing surfaces on the back side of the water pump. There can be burrs on it and I've had one leak because of this so I got to do it again. After that, I ALWAYS use the file method.
Thanks for the info. That’s a good point about having to take the pulley off anyways. I thought maybe it would be easier out of the truck. Also, any trick on getting it off without a pulley puller?
 

laserjock

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You don’t need a puller for the WP pulley. It should come off once the bolts are out.
 

laserjock

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Ummm as far as I know there is only 1 pulley. V-belt will have 3 grooves if it’s AC. Maybe non AC as well but I suppose that might only have 2. Serp should only have one grooved pulley. The bit that the pulley bolts to should stay with the wp. It is pressed on and as far as I can tell requires destruction of the WP to remove that flange. Might be totally wrong about that last bit but the flange should come with the WP.
 

pelky350

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I now think it was coming from the bottom bolt hole but it can't hurt to have a new water pump though it looks not as well. The gap between impellers and the housing of the water pump was like 1/8th inch vs my old one like maybe 1/64th between the blades and housing of pump. Seem so to Be working though
 

Thewespaul

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There’s only one pulley, although there are several ribs it’s just one piece. The harmonic balancer is what you need a puller to remove
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IDIBRONCO

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The water pump pulley can be a little bit difficult to remove if it's been on there for a long time. It gets a little rusty where it slides over the water pump. I'll just take a pry bar or heavy flat tip screwdriver and gently pry on one side then the other until it comes off. The only way that there could be two pulleys on the water ump is if there is/was an aftermarket, belt driven hydraulic pump in the engine compartment. I've seen this set up a few times, usually to power a bale bed. That's a bed that lets you pick up the large round bales of hay for anyone who may not know what a bale bed is. One more trick that I've learned over the years. Before you install the new water pump, lay it down and start the fan on the threads of the water pump. Sometimes they can be a little bit dinged up for whatever reason and next to impossible to start the fan on in the truck. You only need a couple of threads to be able to start it on the engine.
 

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