Belt driven fuel pump discussion

BlindAmbition

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Someone else has a similar idea as you @chickenpot
 

chickenpot

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Someone else has a similar idea as you @chickenpot
Of course, nothing new under the sun ;) i hadnt seen that and honestly dont know if i would spring for one if that had an IDI version.Kits are very convenient and usually worth it in the end..

anyway since i last posted i ended up picking up another truck, "non running" for dirt cheap. took the IP apart and degunked it and put a couple new fuel tanks in it and she runs ok, not amazing a little blow by.. but i figure oh well ill just keep the other cab and chassis as a parts truck and always have a fresh 7.3, ZF, and rear end on hand.

only problem with the gray one is electrical nightmare.. had a fire under the hood related to the harness/wiper motor from what I've gathered. otherwise there is ZERO body rot. whereas the blue one's (luigi) body is completely beyond repair.

Of course it comes with wrenches, the gray one is a serp setup so i have to modify my plan for driving the fuel pump. Plan now is to use this kilby alternator pulley i bought awhile ago for aforementioned OBA project, went different route so this was laying around. looks to be the same size and depth as the stock alternator pulley on the idi
 

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chickenpot

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Well guys, after months of planning scheming and buying parts i finally touched the solenoid wires to the barry today and switched my 7.3 IDI to running straight wvo. didnt take any pics or video cause i was too busy monitoring things and thinking but i will. belt driven viking gear pump, heat exchanger, regulator/bypass, frantz tp filter, and a vw 1600cc oil filter mount threaded for fittings. using 3 greasecar 2 way valves with hydraforce sv98 solenoid spool valves. switched return between diesel and oil tank, switch for the input to the injection pump, and a switch to return the factory filter output
back to the diesel tank so as not to deadhead the cam driven lift pump. return port on the filter head plugged, and #1 return rubber line plugged up. once everything was nice and hot i switched back and forth a few times between straight wvo and diesel to make sure it was purging correctly and everything was smooth. does haze a bit at idle with the wvo but the engine driven pump was putting out too much pressure (about 30 psi). so that probably messed with the timing a bit. need to open up another port on the output or change something with the regulator, cause that 30 psi out was after the regulator and both filters. i know it's bad for the pump but i only ran it like that for a little bit. either way with some fine tuning it should actually work out as I've been planning for almost a year.
 

BlindAmbition

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@chickenpot 30 psi is very high

I just bought a pump from Justin at R&D and his test sheet was for 7 psi. Anything over 9-10 starts to really mess with timing is my understanding.

Is that VW oil filter for the fuel? They are sort of like a Frantz, correct? Also, I just picked up two older Motorguard units. The diameter of the TP roll is not as critical as it is on the Frantz, might be something to look at. Can buy the Motorguard new but they have plastic centers which seem to handle the heat well enough, certainly well enough for WMO/WVO temps.

Pictures would be awesome. Good job and congrats on your progress.
 

chickenpot

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just bought a pump from Justin at R&D and his test sheet was for 7 psi. Anything over 9-10 starts to really mess with timing is my understanding.
yes, that's why i figured it was smoking a bit funny. switch back to diesel and it clears up. lile i said i didnt run it very long like that maybe 5 mins knowing the pressure was too high. I think my pump is moving more volume than the regulator can return so its causing a bottleneck. when i opened the bleeder valve on my second filter output, it dropped to a reasonable 6 psi. so today if i get a chance i will plumb that into the return and just leave it open.

Is that VW oil filter for the fuel?
Yes its a "Claude's Buggies" flange bolt on oil filter mount, takes the same filters as my 97 golf. I just wanted to have a second line of defense after the TP filter
 

chickenpot

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Ended up plumbing in a tank return off of the 3/8 npt port on that 4 way heading out of the second filter. Then, I added another regulator in between the gauge/valve going to IP. have it down to 10psi at idle and it drops when revved. not sure if i can find a sweet spot in there. is over 7 psi (10-13) at idle really that bad for it, when it drops to operating level while increasing RPMs?
 

Jesus Freak

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That's pretty awesome. It's definitely more work than I'd like to put into it, but by all means you should be set and rock solid.
 

BlindAmbition

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@chickenpot Impressive, just saw the video. That pump is about 4x as big as I thought it was. Any chance you've got one with less flow? Seems like it is way overkill, though stout I'm sure. Smaller will definitely help with some of your pressure issues. Did you use a clutch or is it just a pulley?
 

Jesus Freak

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@chickenpot Impressive, just saw the video. That pump is about 4x as big as I thought it was. Any chance you've got one with less flow? Seems like it is way overkill, though stout I'm sure. Smaller will definitely help with some of your pressure issues. Did you use a clutch or is it just a pulley?
It is crazy big. But man it looks solid, and serious!
 

chickenpot

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Your lab rat of hoses, is impresive and that pump is a interesting choice. Also, your battery is not a good place to set metal objects.
i am acutely aware
@chickenpot Impressive, just saw the video. That pump is about 4x as big as I thought it was. Any chance you've got one with less flow? Seems like it is way overkill, though stout I'm sure. Smaller will definitely help with some of your pressure issues. Did you use a clutch or is it just a pulley?
I ended up skipping the clutch. just couldnt make it work. Figured everything else runs without a clutch, save the AC of course.. i trust my chinese idler pulley to hold through and through so why wouldn't i trust this skookum pump with constantly lubricated needle bearings.. just gotta make sure i keep some oil in the veg tank to circulate through even if I'm not running it. I made up a 6" pulley last night and stuck it on, got a 2" longer belt today, reduced the pump rpm by quite a lot. it helped with the pressure a lot as well. Running and idling at 7 psi now

Yes it's a rat's nest. I just wanted to have this stuff centralized under the hood for now, to shorten the run after the filters to not have as much unheated oil going through the line to the IP switch valve. a few 90* fittings probably wouldnt hurt either but dang, i was tired of collecting parts and fittings. just made it work with what i had..
It is crazy big. But man it looks solid, and serious!

It's pretty much just a hydraulic gear pump specifically designed by viking for pumping hot grease. couldn't really think of anything better for the job plus i have a number of them on hand for parts if ever needed.

I do have quite a few other style georotor pumps, but this is the one that had the most straightforward mounting solution. A true fine line between slap it together and too complicated for more effort.
 

chickenpot

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So i am at probably a bit over 3000 miles so far running pure oil now since i built the system. Things of note/modifications made:
-The pump has held up great so far, save for the seal seeping a wee bit. I need to make a new pulley for it that runs more true.
-Regulators. Went through 2 different return style regulators, The first one couldnt handle the flow through the return. second one, the diaphragm just couldnt handle the hot oil straight out of the exchanger. this one failed spectacularly going down the highway dumping about 5 gallons down the side of the truck and under the hood. (sorry car behind me that pulled over ) pulled the drive belt and continued on diesel to work. Found a 1/2 npt all metal pressure relief on mcmaster and this has been the key to maintaining proper pressure on the system.
-Return lines-had to separate the two oil returns to individual barbs stuck on the top of the tank, away from the fuel system return. My heated oil return/filtered oil return was putting back pressure on the return system, messing with my pump timing
-Filters- the frantz TP oil filter works astonishingly well. The tap/bleeder i have after the filter lets out a nice clear, golden oil. I have not built my centrifuge yet, so the settled oil is only pumped through a water filter before going into the tank. The vw filter is really just acting as a safety gate and i feel i could safely run without it.
-Heat exchanger works extremely well, combined with this pump my oil tank gets up to temperature pretty much in direct proportion with the engine coolant temperature.
-Wired in some junkyard 4 pin chevy relays to power my switch solenoids, my previous job was a rush to get going and i wasnt happy with it.
That's all i can remember for now
 

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