Batteries 100% drained dead - new problem

[RSchanz]

I think the problem was solved with the new voltage regulator BUT I'm not entirely sure.

I took the truck for a spin today and put like 100 miles on it. First thing I noticed was that neither the turn signals or hazard lights worked. I pulled over, took both of the fuses out of the fuse box and tested them for continuity and neither seemed to have it. There was this semi-mysterious problem that I used to have that disappeared where the turn signal fuses would get power when they weren't supposed to and I mean just enough to make the click but not enough to light the bulbs. I think the turn signal switch or whatever the thing is called where the contacts are for the turn signals in the steering column was messed up and the contacts would occasionally get stuck slightly on. SO... hear me out... ( I had 100 miles to think about this ), is it possible that the blinker relays were maybe getting some power while the car was off (hazards should work in "off" position) and this in turn somehow blew the turn signal fuses and also screwed up the voltage regulator? It seems like too strange of a coincidence that both of those fuses also don't work.

Otherwise, truck ran fine, batteries charged and while idling I was getting like 14.2 volts at the batteries.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

is it possible that the blinker relays were maybe getting some power while the car was off (hazards should work in "off" position) and this in turn somehow blew the turn signal fuses and also screwed up the voltage regulator? It seems like too strange of a coincidence that both of those fuses also don't work.

I'm no electrician. I do know that the hazards and turn signal have their own, separate flashers. I suppose that it could happen if there was a spot where the insulation was rubbed off of a couple of wires and power was being fed into the turn signal wiring somehow.

 

[RSchanz]

No, you’re right but the weird thing is that neither hazards or turn signal work. Yeah, maybe a whole bundle of wires has issues.

 

[BeastMaster]

A ground return issue will often screw up a lot of circuits.

If your engine block has ground return issues, it will be quite apparent when you attempt to engage the starter, so I feel quite confident an engine block is a known good ground.

The best ground is the negative battery terminal. Assuming your truck is wired similar to my van, dual batteries, and both batteries negative poles have a heavy wire that goes to the engine block, while a lighter AWG#6 or so connects one of the battery negatives to the frame.

All this aggravation may well be the result of the truck body or frame not being well grounded. An extra ground cable won't hurt anything. If you find that running a heavy wire from a bolt on the engine block to another bolt on the frame fixes the woe, dress it up pretty, tuck it away, leaving it connected, and consider it fixed. Yes, the bad connection is still there, but you don't where it is. It may take days to find it. But minutes to simply provide an alternate ground path.

I have had way too many wild gooses finally lead me to corroded ground connections.

 

[RSchanz]

A ground return issue will often screw up a lot of circuits.

If your engine block has ground return issues, it will be quite apparent when you attempt to engage the starter, so I feel quite confident an engine block is a known good ground.

What kind of starter issues are we talking? Honestly sounds a little scratchy sometimes when I fire it up. After it sat for awhile during this when I started it the starter was grinding a bit but I figured that was because the batteries were like 12.55 then after glow plugs maybe kinda low so it was affecting the starter. A ground issue would maybe make sense being the culprit, fried the voltage regulator??

 

[BeastMaster]

I have had issues of weak starter trace back to corroded connectors. People usually check and clean the battery terminals first, but don't go after the other end of the wire.

My experience has been slow corrosion seeping into a ground lug connection over decades. It slowly gets worse. If you are lucky, it overheats, melts, and leaves visible evidence, otherwise it hides under its insulation, and you have to find it.

A grinding sounds mechanical, something a short wouldn't do. As to frying a voltage regulator, I can't tell. I don't know the exact wiring and circuits involved, as to a failing ground destructively shunting power into a regulator.

When you were describing several circuits malfunctioning simultaneously, often those circuits share the same ground return. Good call on checking the fuses first.

 

[RSchanz]

I'm going to consider this solved. Put the new flasher fuses in and they work so IDK what happened but the voltage regulator was definitely an issue. Thank you everyone especially @BeastMaster for the help.

 

[BeastMaster]

You are welcome. I am paying it forward for all you fellow Oil Burners who have helped me.

This is what we are here for.