Barrel stove idea wmo/wood

[Mt_Man]

PoodleHeadMike- I was thinking a smaller green house to start. 12ftx6ftx6ft(L x W x H, 72sqft). But I could have as big as 30x15x15(450sqft). But that would involve several hundred feet of extra plumbing to reach it and also electrical. Have to be in different locations. The Larger one would probably just get its own wood stove with thermostat control to make it easier. I am traveling all summer so it would be nice to garden during winter when I am home more.

Some other factors I have been thinking of.
-Potentially heat a hot tub with
-I have a good source for free oil and firewood all year.
-work/travel a lot, so need to be easy for my mom or gf to run without to much effort. Oil would allow it to be checked daily but not much effort to keep running.
-Doesn't get to cold pnw so don't want it to get to hot.
-Might try to heat some of the house or domestic hot water
-R&D for the future property

 

[Mt_Man]

Eacars- that is a pretty cool setup way heavier then I need for this project but still cool and interesting. Amazing they run it all with hydraulics. Must be a massive pump! Would like to see more of that shop, looks awesome!

 

[Mt_Man]

Apparently those pre-formed chambers are NLA - I just checked for them. I last used one to convert a 1930's coal boiler to oil - about 10 years ago. I imagine that is a Very limited market these days. <g>

Man to bad they are NLA(no longer available?)
I was thinking of something like that. Maybe someone is still making them.

 

[PoodleHeadMike]

You could always make a 'chamber' by molding a 'wet blanket chamber repair kit' but for all the trouble I would just brick the barrel as I described before and be done with it.

 

[Mt_Man]

oh "wet blanket chamber repair kit" I have seen it on youtube furnace repair videos, but forgot about it. I think that would work perfect.
Years ago I found the Garn wood boilers. One of there videos is for replacing the reaction camber.

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They look like awesome units. Maybe one day I can afford it. Anyways this was the refractory camber i was thinking of using originally.

What are your thoughts on a 33lbs propane tank with the ends cut off, lined with this wet blanket stuff or bare metal? Idea is being cheap, replaceable, and easy. Thinking it would lay horizontal longways, then poke the burner in it. This would all be inside the barrel and removable if I wanted to run it on wood. Only thought would be is the the 1ft diameter of the propane tank would be to small for the nozzle/spray pattern and burn right.

 

[PoodleHeadMike]

Oil nozzles are available in narrow width patterns but narrow trades off with long. Burning oil requires tiny pieces of oil so there can be enough air around each little droplet to burn effectively. You will want avoid any flame impingement as oil droplets contacting any solid surface will coalesce into liquid oil which will not ignite. The heat of combustion will drive off all the volatiles and form a coal-like cinder. As you might imagine: the effect is geometric. <g>

So a somewhat oversized chamber and heat exchanger is easier to compensate for that would be an undersized one. That is oil-mist impingement covered.

In addition; oil-flame impingement cannot be allowed to occur as it will quickly oxidize a hole though the metal. Refractory material is what prevents this.

 

[Mt_Man]

Yep there is a variety of nozzles available. Agreed more room is better for the refractory. I think lining the inside of the barrel would be the easiest, but not as easy to remover to burn wood. Unless it's the brick and burn on top of it. Yep I have seen that carbon/coal like stuff build up before on other burners. Very good to think about.

 

[Mt_Man]

I just picked up a really nice used bock oil water heater. It was used in a hydronic forced air heater and domestic water heater. This will get me started on my project and I can just play around building stoves this winter. Just have to build a little shed to put it in. It should work really good for me. Wonder if it would better to use glycol or just city water that is from a water shed with out glycol? Testing the tap water would be good to do. Another question I have would it be better to use distilled water, rain water, or tap water?
Unfortunately I don't think of getting pictures of the haul. The guy sold it with all the chimney, tank, stand, hardware, and fuel pipes. Just need to set it up this fall when I get done with work in the fall.