Any tips for installing a new rear fuel tank?

fields_mj

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Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or advice for installing a new rear fuel tank? Mine started leaking last week. I have the replacement, and I pulled the old tank off this evening. Before anyone suggests it, removing the bed isn't an option unfortunately. My bed has a ball in it that I've been trying to remove ever since I bought the truck with no luck. So I'm stuck doing everything from down below.

Thanks,
Mark
 

crash-harris

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Connect the filler tube first, then your source and return lines, vent and electrical plug. Lay on your back and use your knees to hold the tank in place while you get the bolts started on the straps.

DON'T kink your lines. Tug on the source/return lines as you're raising the tank into place. I've kinked lines when reinstalling the rear tank before and that's no fun.
 

fields_mj

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Am I correct in assuming that there's no way to remove the hard rubber fuel lines from the steel lines that run up to the lift pump? Just curious
 

jwalterus

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Before anyone suggests it, removing the bed isn't an option unfortunately. My bed has a ball in it that I've been trying to remove ever since I bought the truck with no luck. So I'm stuck doing everything from down below.

I've had that issue in the past, soak it down daily for a couple weeks with squaw ****, then take a grinder and turn the ball into a 1 1/2" hex, put on a socket and hit 'er with the 3/4" impact

if you don't have access to a 3/4" impact, put a breaker bar on it, put a cheater bar on a breaker bar to the point it goes out the tailgate, and give 'er the mustard ;Sweet
 

riotwarrior

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Apparently old fashioned foul language is quite effective according to @Danielle

Also clear safety glasses...

Its not that bad a job lest you have a 2" reciever bolted to frame...then it gets more foul languagey for sure....least the one I recently pulled did....:rotflmao....which now has to go into my truck likely....-cuss
 

Danielle

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Yes. It helps if you get creative and invent some impossible scenarios when using foul language.
I would second the idea of grinding it to a hex and using a breaker bar.

PB blast a few nights. Or buy a miniducter. I use that ish on everything.

I just did my front tank. Vaseline on everything for install. And watch the lines. I used a floor trans jack to raise it up and just went slow.

The dorky safety glasses with the sides help with the rust and dirt falling in your eyes

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fields_mj

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Don't have a 3/4" impact. I have tried soaking with PB Blaster for a week and then putting a 6' pipe wrench (Yes, that's 72", not a typo) on it with a cheater bar to boot. No joy. I'm resolved to the fact that it would likely take a blue wrench or a grinder to remove. Up to this point, it hasn't frustrated me enough to go that route.

I don't have a 2" receiver. I have a 2-1/2" Class 12 receiver welded to the frame. Not in the way though so I'll count myself lucky.

Took me 4-1/2 hours to get the new tank in (in addition to the 3 hours it took me to pull the old tank out the night before... in the rain...). I concur that cursing should be applied liberally and frequently during the process.

My final process was to attach the outer vent hose to the tank first. Then start the filler tube inside it and prop that end (driver side) up against the frame. Doing so caused the filler tube to act as a guide later in the process, and supported that side of the tank throughout the process. Next I started sorting through various pieces of wood blocks and firewood to find something that would hold the other end of the tank up just enough that I could barely reach the supply and return lines. This is where the cursing needs to be applied extra thick. After about an hour of fidgeting, cursing, yanking, cursing, tugging, cursing, pulling, cursing, bending, cursing, reaching, and down right getting ticked off, I finally was able to get those lines reconnected. If Ford would have made those lines 2" longer, the process would be SO much easier. If Henry Ford wasn't rolling in his grave, I would have been willing to dig him up and flip his #$$ over myself. Once those two lines were connected (and the vent and electrical hooked back up), I pushed the tank up in there as far as I could and supported it with a piece of firewood. It was still too far over to the passenger side to get up in there, so I went over to the drivers side and got the outer vent tube started back on at the body. Once that was on there, it was just a matter of wiggling, cussing, and pushing to get the tank back into position, during which the hose works itself back up onto the spout. Once in place, I blocked it up in there while I did the knee trick to bolt the skid plates back in place.

NOTE TO SELF! When using and impact to install l the skid plates, DO NOT let the meat of the palm of your hand get sandwiched between the skid plate and the frame! Doing so will require an extremely potent dose of cursing to get the impact reversed and get your hand back out.
 

subway

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Holy moly man! Glad you got it. It's to late now but one other tip I learned is to cut a angle on the end of the fuel filler inner tubing. The flat edge kept catching the tank and prevented me from assembling it.

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fields_mj

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That part wasn't too bad actually, only because I anticipated it. When I got to that point, I just used a smallish flat blade screw driver to work around the lip of the tube like I was putting a bicycle tire on its rim. An angle would have helped though.
 

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