Another starting issue

[leftcoastjeff]

I have had some considerable issues whit the truck and have worked some of them out.

Bad glow plugs, Bad lift pump. these seem to be fixed.

Now I get a 10 second glow with no after-glow, ( no biggie, it was 2 seconds before, I may go with the manuel push button)

I now get a stream of fuel out of the shrader valve on the fuel filter. ( after replacing the lift pump, what a PITA.)

Now I get a very soft click from the fuel solenoid on the IP and no fuel to the loosened injector line.

I know that there is some crap inside, can I remove the little cover on top of the IP where the hard return line comes from? also has the fuel shut off solenoid and the cold advance wires attached to it?

I used a wire from the hot side of the battery to the terminal closest to the front and heard a loud click a couple of times, then only a soft clicks after that.

So again, can I remove that cover to try to get that solenoid going again?

Thanks in advance,

LCjeff

 

[icanfixall]

Yes you can remove the top cover of the injection pump but its critical reinstalling it. Do it wrong and the governer will allow the engine to over rev way past the red line because there is no way to throttle the fuel going to the engine. Have the air filter box or whatever you have removed so just the open intake is looking at you. Then cut a piece of 1/2 inch thick at least plywood or any thick wood to cover the intake opening in cae you get an engine runaway. They truely are scarey when they take off but covering the intake kills the air going to the engine chocking it out. If your turboed do not cover the turbo intake with your hand. It will suck it in and nothing will be left. Normal spinning turbo is 120,000 rpm. Thats 2000 rpm per second. During a run away it could easily be double that. Just thinking about a turbo spinning at 4000 rpm per second makes my pants wet let alone normal 2000 rpm per second.... What are you really looking for in the pump... That black fitting that has an o-ring under it is a check valve. The solenoid in the cover opens that so the return fuel can go back to the tanks. If thats not opening then the fuel can't reach the injecters.

 

[leftcoastjeff]

No turbo, what should I do? you scared me.........will be ready for the runaway..plywood....OK

How do I avoid this ??? and still clean out the solenoid?

Thanks for the warning!!!

LCjeff

 

[leftcoastjeff]

HOW DO I AVOID RUNAWAY??? other than not open up that cover?

I really need to get this fixed, please help me!

LCjeff

 

[TWeatherford]

Just pay attention when pulling it off and put it back the same. Not too difficult, really, but the consequences can be significant (but not bad if you've got your plywood handy). Make sure you have a good electrical signal going to it, because you may have an electrical issue, not a solenoid issue. You can also have fuel at the shrader, but an air lock between the filter and the IP. You can disconnect the IP return line to help bleed the air out, if air is in there.

 

[leftcoastjeff]

OK, I removed the top and found clean diesel fuel...

Then I looked at the solenoid, there are 3 small cracks in the surface (the black part), hope this is the problem.

checked with the parts house, no got/get, so tomorrow I will check with Ford stealership.

Napa has a complete rebuild IP.......950.00 OMG...

hoping the solenoid is available

Wish me luck,

LCjeff

 

[leftcoastjeff]

been doing considerable reading here, somewhere I read that the trick to getting that cover on correctly is to energize the solenoid then place it on the IP. From Mel I believe, Can any of you confirm?

The stealership has the assembly marked as obsolete, no longer available, so I've got a # for the international shop, will try tomorrow.

Any thoughts?

LCjeff

PS the local Napa has the IP....rebuild....$950.00...OMG.

 

[TronDD]

I don't know if you can get just the solenoid but those pump prices are ridiculous.

http://conestogadiesel.com/products.html

And if you want to go cheap, which I don't recommend, you can find rebuilt pumps for under $500 online.

Tim.

 

[leftcoastjeff]

got it

Picked up the fss today 125 ouch

Got to speak with the owner about the runaway
He said to be careful and said that there
Should be a little spring pressure on the cover

When it is put into place

Also test it before starting listen for a loud click


Wish me luck

Lcjeff

 

[leftcoastjeff]

Got the FSS installed and it sounds good, a distinct click.

But I drained the inside of the IP before I installed the cover (just looking for trash in the bottom), was that not a good idea? Should I open it up and fill it up with clean fuel?
I purged the shrader valve and got a stream of fuel then I loosened one of the injector line nuts at
the injector to see if I got fuel there, none came out after cranking for 15-20 seconds, 3 times.

What next??

LCjeff

 

[redneckaggie]

The top cover seemed like it was foolproof to me when i took it off, at this point I would make sure I have air free fuel at the schrader, then air free fuel from the top cover, then see if it fires, if not then you will prob have to bleed injectors.

 

[argve]

open up more than one injector. I have found that some pumps if you drain them of fuel they will be hard to purge the air out of them. but typically if you open up say four injectors it will pump the air out. Mine is a bear to purge the air out of. I have to open up at least three and then crank on it by jumping out the fender solenoid with my wrench until a little after I see fuel bubbling out the injectors, then I will still leave one loose and start it up.

 

[OLDBULL8]

When you consider the small amount of fuel injected for every revolution with just one injector line loosened, it takes 8 revolution to spit out that ~ 90cc of fuel/air. NOT good on the injectors, the injector pintles are cushioned by fuel. At least loosen 5-6-7 injector nuts, back them off at least 3-4 turns, when fuel appears at all nuts, then tighten them up. Engine will start then.