Air intrusion problems... with an electric pump

[rob93]

Starting to get fed up with this reoccurring problem, hoping you guys can shed some light.

I've had air intrusion for awhile now. Starts, runs for a couple seconds, dies, hard starting. I replaced the return lines and O rings with a kit from Mel.
This helped, but occasionally I would have odd instances of hard starting. This became worse after a couple months and was hard starting every time after sitting at least day.

Sometime around March maybe April I installed a duralift e pump and she was starting beautifully.. til about a month ago...
I found a fuel leak from the o ring at my heater plug on the top of fuel filter, replaced it and she was again firing within a second of cranking.
This lasted until a couple weeks ago and I'm back to the same problem.

I'm going to order fuel olives and see if that is my problem, I cannot find diesel leaking anywhere. Any other common places I should look? Maybe the tank selector switch?

BUT HERE IS MY BIG QUESTION... shouldn't I be able to purge the air with my e pump to stop the hard starts? I turn the key (turns on the pump) then press in the schrader valve til a steady stream of diesel comes out. Then i try to start it, but it still takes 15-20 seconds of cranking before it fires.

BTW, I replaced my glow plugs last December, maybe January. My WTS light stays on the full 10-15 seconds and I have no white smoke on cranking, so they do not seem to be the problem.. Plus this happens on 85 degree days in south Florida

 

[riotwarrior]

How many miles on injectors and IP?

Could be IP is tired too right! Not holding pressure takes a few revolutions to build up pressure n pop injectors?

How's the timing?

 

[icanfixall]

Your problem is an air leak. That being said air leaks into the system under vacuum because the fuel is heavier than air and smallr particles too. so it drains back to the tank ans sucks in air. Replaying the three olives is a great idea. You need two for the feed line to the injection pump and they are 5/16. The feed line to the filter head from the tanks require on and its a 3/8 size. Be aware they somettimes are tuff to get out of the brass nuts. Soaking in brake fluid over nite softens them so they come out easier. I use a dental pick to get them out. Make sure the hard lines are pressed deep into the fitting on the filter head and the injection pump so the line is supported well. Don't allow the olive to be just on the end of the line and tightened down. It will seal but its done wrong and will fail sooner than you think. It olive seal is a very important seal and it acts as a vibration dampner too.

 

[burt]

While of no value to fixing your problem, you may find that if you park front end down hill it won't air intrude and will start fine until you get it fixed. That has been my experience several times over the years.

 

[icanfixall]

While of no value to fixing your problem, you may find that if you park front end down hill it won't air intrude and will start fine until you get it fixed. That has been my experience several times over the years.

Funny but this does work. I have used it a few times too. I'm lucky. My driveway has a good amount of slant to it.

 

[rob93]

I like the driveway trick. I will have to try backing into the driveway until it is fixed.

But I believe I found my problem, its leaking bad by the water drain on the bottom of the fuel filter. I already ordered the Wix 33617 to replace the entire assembly. Thanks everyone