air filter upgrade

[dgr]

I don't use it for permanent installs. I use it for mostly ac work. Checking evaporator temp and duct temp while i am charging. You can tape it down in places with a piece of foam over it to get readings too. You could probably squish a piece of rubber line in the port and then stick the probe through. The one i have has magnets to stick on the side of the fridge or the oven or the hood. When I'mdoneit goes back in the kitchen

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

ok yeah. we have the fancy Fluke DVOM's at school that have the thermocouple that you can use for these types of things.

do you happen to have the brand of your thermometer?

 

[dgr]

All the Chinese ones are about the same. When the thermocouple dies they become just a timer. Here's one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004XSC5/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1348428090&sr=8-3

If you have a fluke, it is certainly better than any of these. But when i break one of these, i don't feel too bad

 

[PwrSmoke]

'94: I have used a variety of things but any temp gauge could potentially be used, either a capillary (mechanical) type or an electronic. If electronic, you would need to make sure the sender had a good ground

dgr: I hear you. I wanted to gauge interest on the idea of flwo benching the air filters, see If I could one up the bench and the professional help then get people to send the parts.

 

[Trying my best]

My setup is in the signature.

The banks airbox was a maze of tight bends, and used a kn specialty dust scoop filter. The cold air hose was rarely hooked up and the box was hot already so i put a 4" filter right where the air hose attached and ran it fine like that for a year or two. this setup actually filtered! The banks mazebox is off finally.

Then i got rid of the banks box, adapted a ATS intake hat to the sidewinder turbo, and made a straight 4" pipe with CDR and support legs. I used a rubber boot that was on the banks intake side and boiled it until i could stretch it over 4". Nice and snug, and fit back onto the turbo nice. More direct routing and free flowing than the box, and i can see and work on the return lines, glowplugs, ip, etc without pulling nine bolts and three worm clamps while sitting on the engine . The filter is roughly an inch, maybe two from radiator fan. This is forward most of the engine. Sitting in traffic could make it warm but i doubt at highway speeds it is very hot. Right now it takes one bolt and two clamps to take off the intake assembly all extremely easy to get at.

Future plans are to extend it past the radiator when swapping to a narrow style, and going to full cold ram air. With a diesel, more air is good air when it is free. A lot of people worry about free flowing exhaust but only take a freer flowing intake as far as soup bowl mods...?

When flowing anything, any turns are going to impact flow. The sharper the turn, the more. Subtle angles are better than harsh if you can

I am trying to wrap up my old style banks turbo install, it looks like you had the same problem I'm having with the air filter. I need a filter but it looks like I will not be able to use the rectangular banks style because they don't make them, and even if they did, I don't like k and n filters. What filter did you use attached to your banks box. I am trying to get a big 6637 but I don't have the room. Thanks

 

[rhkcommander]

Any filter with a 4" hole works probably. The one i used was a spectre filter, commonly available here. Not the best but brtter than the kn. Just stick it on the end of the box where the cold air hose was/is. Could also use a silicon hose, 4" piping and mount filter elsewhere

 

[PwrSmoke]

I am trying to wrap up my old style banks turbo install, it looks like you had the same problem I'm having with the air filter. I need a filter but it looks like I will not be able to use the rectangular banks style because they don't make them, and even if they did, I don't like k and n filters. What filter did you use attached to your banks box. I am trying to get a big 6637 but I don't have the room. Thanks

I'm faced with the same thing eventually. I replaced my filter in about 2003 from one of the last ones Banks had in stock (if you haven't checked, you might try), so when mine is done for whatever reason, I'll have to decide on something different. Also, like you, I prefer a filter with better efficiency than the oiled cotton gauze. BTW, when I first installed my Banks in '87, the filter in the then-new kit came in a K&N package. The second one I bought in '03 came in a generic package and wasn't exactly the same as the K&N so I suspected it was made by another company.

I was given the air filter from an '08 6.4L, which has a Donaldson Power Core filter. It looks adaptable to me and the Power Core filter is one of the most efficient and free-flowing out there.

I would remove the entire box and attache directly to the flange on the turbo (3"IIRC) and then build some support barackets for the air fitelr housing (laying on it's side). Looks likeI could then connect ti to the existing cold air duct with a little effort. Anyway, it's a down the road project for me.

 

[Trying my best]

Yea, the guy who I bought the turbo set up ran over the filter so that's not an option, so I bought the 6637 from napa not realizing how big it is. Now I want to put that in, but I might return it for a smaller one like rhk said, although I would rather use the biggin. I'll look at it again when I get back from work to see if there is a way to relocate the overflow and washer jug, I don't want to move the battery because I too have my electric fuel pump on the passenger fender well.

 

[Agnem]

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When I did mine, I was still working at RCA, and had access to a handy thing that was like a handheld VOM that took temperature measurements with little probes. I stuck a few under the hood and ran the wires in through the drivers window. Temps were higher at idle sitting in traffic, but once you got going down the road, the intake temps cooled off and got within a degree of outside air. Funny thing is, the same thing happens to a stock air cleaner, although the differental was not as high. I imagine dynoing with the hood closed, would not exactly approximate what is going on when your moving down the road. Because not only do you have air pushing in, but you have a vacuum behind you.

 

[PwrSmoke]

The way I tested mine was to remove the duct from the Banks box and then test the incoming air temp. I also moved the probe to different places around the engine compartment and measures the temps. On the Bank box, the inlet is right over the exhaust manifold, so the incoming air there with the cool air tube gone was not exactly the coolest in any ambient condition. A nearby probe was also pretty warm. And yes, always hotter a idle or low speeds with no airflow. I would predict an inlet way to the side would be cooler. Cooler than a duct??? Doubt it.

The Banks kit uses the original cool air duct that came with the NA Ford. It's about 4" in diameter at the Banks box and necks to approximately 6x2" at the grille. Are of a 4" circle is 12.5 inches and the area of a 6x2 rectangle is 12 inches, I'll check some rule of thumb flow info I have to see how much that setup will flow but if I end up setting up some flowbench stuff, I'll test my Banks box and that duct. I have a feeling, as some have expressed here, that theBanks box is more restrictive than it could be. Saturday, I reset the restriction gauge and ran some tests. With a clean filter, it shows just under about 15" of vacuum when I generated about 13 psi boost on some full bore acceleration runs.