Advice on installing factory turbo

[Julianq7]

I recently just purchased factory 93 ats turbo kit. and banks downpipe part #52103 2.5 inch inlet and 2.75 inch outlet. I just wanted to know what size oil feed line and what type I need..? the kit is complete minus the oil line. Also am I going to need any special sort of gaskets for any of the pipes? I heard the banks downpipe just clamps on to the turbo. Just to be sure the factory inlet is 2.5 correct? I'm just trying to make installation as smooth as possible
I have never installed a turbo so if there is any tips you have advice is appreciated.

thank you guys in advance.

 

[IDIoit]

my #1 tip is to modify the cowl, fabrication required.

if you cant weld, atleast cut the pinch weld on the firewall/floor and fold it down.
I also removed the shielding that's under the passengerside of the cab.
remove your injection pump and hard lines for the install

 

[pafixitman]

When I did mine, I cut the pinch weld at about 2" intervals and used a scissor jack on the bell housing to bend them under. Removed the heat shield and cut back the rubber firewall mat (engine side). Contrary to others, my GPC stayed in the factory NA location. I just covered it with some heat shield wrap. I rerouted the return line in front of the intake, ditched the CDR for a RDT and kept the rocker covers stock NA. Left my pump and lines on.

I say "I did" but in reality I had 3 other members helping / doing the install!

 

[sjwelds]

I didn't take off the IP or lines when I did mine. A porta-power was real handy for creating clearance by the firewall. Not sure which trans you have, but the ZF5 requires a trim of the "ear" for the downpipe to clear. Not sure if that ear is there on other transmissions...

Can't say on the oil line either, mine had the right one. I used a fitting on the driver's side not too far from the oil filter for the supply. Had to TIG weld a nut to it to get it out, as the hex rounded off. Your results may vary.

Good Luck.

 

[IDIoit]

I have a -4AN line for my oil line, @typ4 has them in stock

 

[Julianq7]

-4AN oil line in stock at what website or should I message him? And basically what you guys are saying is modify the firewall so the downpipe fits? Also I heard you had to make holes in the oil pan for the turbo line return because the NA motors don't drain fast enough like the factory turbo 7.3s??

sorry for ignorance, still learning a lot about the diesels

 

[icanfixall]

If the engine you plan using with the turbo has ever had the intake manifold valley pan replaced then it has the better oiol drain back. If you do not know then punch some holes but... Know what you are doing first. Best safest way to punch holes is use an ice pick. then hammer it thru the drain back hole thru the internal baffles. Using an ice pick instead of a drill will keep the maetal drill shavings from reaching the oil pan.

 

[sjwelds]

Yes and this is the valley pan NOT the oil pan

 

[Julianq7]

the valley pan is located on the intake manifold where at? is that where the cdr is connected?

 

[icanfixall]

The valley pan covers the lifter valley under the intake plus it seals the intake to the heads. Way behind the intake air horn is where the CDR returns the oil or where most all turbos return the turbo oil. Down inside this is the baffel you need to punch holes in with a ice pick.
NEVER EVER USE ANY GASKET ON THE OIL PAN... Many complete gasket kits now come with a cork rubber oil pan gasket. No matter what others tell you... they will leak. Factory used an RTV and todays RTV is far better than yesterdays RTV. I prefer permatex ultra copper plus. It is oil resistant and takes temps to about 600 degrees I recall..... Might be forgetful on temps but it sure works if you get the surfaces clean. Have used it for maybe 30 years now with never a leak.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I would just use an air hammer with a punch on it to make the oil drain hole. One hole is all I ever needed. Just don't go too deep and damage your lifter hold down retainer. If you can make a 3/8" diameter hole, that should be big enough since the factory supply uses a 1/4" pipe fitting. Like icanfixall said just don't drill your hole.

 

[typ4]

I recently just purchased factory 93 ats turbo kit. and banks downpipe part #52103 2.5 inch inlet and 2.75 inch outlet. I just wanted to know what size oil feed line and what type I need..? the kit is complete minus the oil line. Also am I going to need any special sort of gaskets for any of the pipes? I heard the banks downpipe just clamps on to the turbo. Just to be sure the factory inlet is 2.5 correct? I'm just trying to make installation as smooth as possible
I have never installed a turbo so if there is any tips you have advice is appreciated.

thank you guys in advance.

Do you have all the orings and seals to install the turbo and pedestal. I have full mounting kits and oil line kit.

 

[Julianq7]

typ4 I messaged you. what is the pedestal? I'm still confused where I am suppose to drill this hole?!?! I took off the intake and I see the where actual intake sits but where do I make this hole. where is the lifter valley?

 

[towcat]

typ4 I messaged you. what is the pedestal? I'm still confused where I am suppose to drill this hole?!?! I took off the intake and I see the where actual intake sits but where do I make this hole. where is the lifter valley?

it's where the CDR is plumbed into in the valley pan. the other half of the CDR goes in the back of the intake.

 

[sjwelds]

You should have what they call a "pedestal" that bolts on with 2 bolts (the same ones the CDR was mounted with) right behind the intake hole. That pedestal is cast to go into a grommet, and that's what the oil drains thru. Turbo mounts on top.

Russ is the go-to for parts for those systems. You may want to check into him doing his mods to the turbo before you even slap it on. Wish I would've.