Before anybody says it, yes I did search on this before making this topic.
My 89 F250 is still rocking an R12 system, but it is struggling to keep the cab cool and I can see black death buildup on the outside of the compressor. I don't see it surviving another summer so I've decided to get it fixed now.
After reading through the various topics on AC over the years here on OB, I've decided to just replace everything in the AC system with new components and convert it over to use R134a with a variable orifice tube. I'm not keen on using R12 alternatives and want to make it to where this is serviceable by a shop going forward in the future. From what I've gathered, there are two different ways of going about this:
Option 1: Get all replacement parts for the 1989 year, charge with R134a and call it a day.
Option 2: Use Evaporator, Condenser and line between Evap/Condensor from 1995 truck since it should be more efficient with R134a and the rest of the components needed for a 1989 truck.
Both options will receive a new low pressure switch calibrated for R134a. Option 1 is probably going to be the easiest/safest route to implement. I'd like to consider doing Option 2 if it'll be worth it, but am not sure if the 95 Evaporator will connect to the line that runs to the AC compressor or if the fitting is different. Since I'm using a V-Belt setup on my compressor, that limits me to using the older HVAC line configuration (I'm not ready to convert to serpentine at this time). If anybody can provide verification that the line will connect to the EVAP without issue, I'll go with Option #2.
Other miscellaneous questions I still have are:
1. Regardless of which option I go with, should I still drain all oil from the new compressor and add PAG oil (4oz to compressor and the remaining 4oz throughout the rest of the system)?
2. Do I need a high pressure cut-off switch? If so, where do I add it and how?
3. Is the rule of thumb to charge 80-85% of R134a to what an R12 system would normally have? What pressures should I be looking for for R134a in my case?
I'll be getting gauges and a vacuum pump, so I'm hoping I can do this on my own without having to pay a shop a crap ton in labor to do this. I'm open to suggestions and feedback. Thanks.
My 89 F250 is still rocking an R12 system, but it is struggling to keep the cab cool and I can see black death buildup on the outside of the compressor. I don't see it surviving another summer so I've decided to get it fixed now.
After reading through the various topics on AC over the years here on OB, I've decided to just replace everything in the AC system with new components and convert it over to use R134a with a variable orifice tube. I'm not keen on using R12 alternatives and want to make it to where this is serviceable by a shop going forward in the future. From what I've gathered, there are two different ways of going about this:
Option 1: Get all replacement parts for the 1989 year, charge with R134a and call it a day.
Option 2: Use Evaporator, Condenser and line between Evap/Condensor from 1995 truck since it should be more efficient with R134a and the rest of the components needed for a 1989 truck.
Both options will receive a new low pressure switch calibrated for R134a. Option 1 is probably going to be the easiest/safest route to implement. I'd like to consider doing Option 2 if it'll be worth it, but am not sure if the 95 Evaporator will connect to the line that runs to the AC compressor or if the fitting is different. Since I'm using a V-Belt setup on my compressor, that limits me to using the older HVAC line configuration (I'm not ready to convert to serpentine at this time). If anybody can provide verification that the line will connect to the EVAP without issue, I'll go with Option #2.
Other miscellaneous questions I still have are:
1. Regardless of which option I go with, should I still drain all oil from the new compressor and add PAG oil (4oz to compressor and the remaining 4oz throughout the rest of the system)?
2. Do I need a high pressure cut-off switch? If so, where do I add it and how?
3. Is the rule of thumb to charge 80-85% of R134a to what an R12 system would normally have? What pressures should I be looking for for R134a in my case?
I'll be getting gauges and a vacuum pump, so I'm hoping I can do this on my own without having to pay a shop a crap ton in labor to do this. I'm open to suggestions and feedback. Thanks.