Several months ago my Champion Radiator started leaking, they graciously replaced it. While the rad was out, I decided to also replace the AC condenser plus new "O" rings at each fitting. Since it was relatively cool outside, I put off re-charging. Well, last evening we vacuumed the system, tested for leaks and loaded 36oz (weighed the charge) of R134A. Problem, the clutch does not engage. Checked fuse + verified 12volts at connection plug on compressor. Also bumped the clutch with hammer while the switch was engaged and engine running. It appears the clutch has failed.You folks agree or disagree or have any advice?
AC Help
- Thread starter catbird7
- Start date
gnathv
Full Access Member
Check your ground for clutch, if ground is good, ohm coil.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
You could hit the coil with 12v and see what happens.
But not uncommon for them to fail.
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But not uncommon for them to fail.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Compressor on truck (as far as I know) is original, therefore best approach may be to simply replace it and be done with it. Just checked Advance Auto, price for new compressor with new clutch & lifetime warranty is $250.00. Plus I'm sure there's a discount coupon / code available online somewhere to reduce the price even further. Sorry for the "knee-jerk" on this, I'll likely just replace. Thanks for the reply's.
If you want to just replace the clutch, you can do that without draining the freon out. You can also take your meter and set it on ohms and see if you get a reading through the clutch coil like the previous poster said. If you do, it's likely good. If it checks good, one other possibility could be the clutch gap. It cannot be over something like .040 of a inch (going by memory).
Mine would cool and then suddenly I would lose it. My clutch gap ended up being to wide, the clutch would start slipping. I took one shim out, and it was a little on the tight side, but after awhile it wore in and works fine now. I can pull my clutch without the special tool, since it slides off easily. I take the nut loose in the center, and then use two screwdrivers to very carefully pry it off. Watch out for the shim/washers as it comes off. They are what set the gap.
Mine would cool and then suddenly I would lose it. My clutch gap ended up being to wide, the clutch would start slipping. I took one shim out, and it was a little on the tight side, but after awhile it wore in and works fine now. I can pull my clutch without the special tool, since it slides off easily. I take the nut loose in the center, and then use two screwdrivers to very carefully pry it off. Watch out for the shim/washers as it comes off. They are what set the gap.
junk
Full Access Member
I agree it's probably a bad clutch, but I'd go ahead and ohm out the existing clutch quick since it's easy. And even try jumping 12v to if it ohms out OK. No sense replacing it if it's not bad and wasting the time.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Well.... he has 12v at the compressor clutch plug....
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That was going to be my first suggestion until I read that he has 12v at the compressor.
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
Been there done that.
Advance offers a lifetime warranty then changes their part number on said part. So when, not if you need a replacement, they give you a 1 time replacement since they no longer carry "that" part.
Just got an A/C kit (compressor, drier, orifice valve) from Rock Auto for $139. Four seasons brand so middling quality but my "lifetime warranty" (Advance Auto) compressor lasted a year if that. Blown compressor seal.
Key to any reliable R12 to 134 change is flushing everything you don't change very thoroughly. The old oil will mess up the new system in no time.
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
If your system was originally R12 your pressure switch is set too high for 134A. If you pull the plug off the switch there is an adjustment screw on the switch that will allow you to adjust it to 134A pressure.
How far are you from Easton?
mblaney
Full Access Member
I just fixed a similar problem with mine... A/C clutch would not engage and I measured 12V at the plug. Coil ohmed out good so I bumped the clutch using a jumper from the battery; it worked perfect. Traced the problem to a crappy connection at the low pressure switch. 10 minutes and $0 and it was fixed. Just because you measure 12V at the plug doesn't mean it will be there when under load.
