'90 F350 Crewcab 4x4 "BFTD" Project..

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Lol... after doing some reading, guys seem to have much better luck thinning/spraying with hvlp then rolling when it comes to flat/matte finishes. I have a cheap gun and the reducer is cheap... may be the route to take for the best outcome.

More research to do... either way, I'm hoping for 1 color by the end of next week. We'll see.

The "khaki" and black should look decent together and should hold up well. For the cost of materials... its worth trying either way.
 

cpdenton

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Price was surely right! Anytime I can bring up Jake from State Farm I will.

Spray it. It will be a much more even finish.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I think I'll try it both ways. Problem with doing a flat or matte is not being able to sand it to remove imperfections... so no matter what, there will be a texture to it (oddly thats what I want). I'm not looking for smooth/perfect.. I'm looking for rough/rugged look.

If this doesnt work out, it will end up just being a base for raptor liner which is what I wanted to do in the first place, but is just out of the budget right now.
 

laserjock

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If you are thinking about raptor liner, be prepared to strip all this stuff off before putting it on.

Definitely spray it. Since its un catalyzed, you can come back over and touch up spots you need to fix at anytime. There really is no recoat window. Be aware also that your finish is going to be really fragile because it's not catalyzed. I think that's just oil based paint so please make sure you seal the bare metal up with something before you put that on there because I suspect you will see rust in short order because I wouldn't bet you will end up with a water proof finish like you would with an automotive style paint. Remember automotive paints are expensive for a reason. You may get a paint job that looks decent but I doubt it will last very long.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I swear I can't win for losing with this POS...

Took it for a drive... Got back and noticed the trans is dripping... Started looking around and found a 5" crack on the drivers side of the tail housing...

Now what...

Edit... only real option at this point is to try and seal it up with some form of epoxy (jb weld, etc) and limp it until I can find a transmission for it... we'll see. The tail housing can be had for $300 or so... plus full tear down of the trans... What sucks is it shifts and drives really nice... just pukes oil out of the housing.. Seems to be my luck with this POS.
 
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IDIoit

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sounds like a perfect time for a manual swap!

man, with that khaki and black, being so close to OD green and black, the way im going, its gonna look like a buncha Uncle Sams Misguided Children LOL
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Did some digging... no used transmissions in my area currently... salvage yards are wanting close to 1k... no trucks being sold for parts on CL...

I believe for the time being, I'm going to attempt to seal it up. Going to drain the trans, clean/wire brush the area and fill the webbing with epoxy (either jb weld or something similar). Hoping this can get me by for a bit until I can either track down a transmission or have time to pull this one apart and replace the tail housing as of coarse, it has to be fully disassembled to do so.

I may call the local driveline/trans shop and see if they may have one laying around they would let go cheap (highly doubtful).

If this don't work... not sure where I'll be as I don't have that kind of money right now and most likely wont have (to spend on something like this anyways) for a good while. If it will seal it up enough to be drivable, I'll baby it around until I can just get a reman unit.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Got someone in your area that welds aluminum? Could always inquire about having it welded :dunno

Thought about that but it's in an area where the webbing is deep. Only way I could see getting a tig torch in there to it would be to pull it apart and weld it from the inside. At that point, might as well replace the housing.

Apparently that housing is the same on all early ZFs... So not hard to come by. If epoxy doesn't seal it, I'll prolly pull it apart and find a housing for it.
 

crash-harris

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There are some ZF5's here around ohio for about $500-$600. Might be a bit of a haul for you, but just right next door. Junkyards wanting 4 figures for a used one is ludicrous. There is also a place in Lexington or Whitsville, KY that does remans for $800 after core. I think they are my best option for my 4x4 conversion. Every other place wants $1100+ for a rebuilt 4x4 ZF5.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Yeah... really hoping I can seal it up for the time being... perhaps run a heavier fluid it in as well just to get by. The wife is already a bit frustrated with the money I've spent on this **** and now this... lol

We'll see what happens. I wont be able to mess with it til Tuesday but if $10 worth of epoxy makes it so it can be driven, I'll be ok with that.
 

kcconfq

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It might be worth talking to a radiator repair shop about the two part epoxy they use for sealing the cores to the tanks. We have used it to seal a bunch of things at the shop and it holds up well in oily/gas fume system. I'm not sure what it is, the label was destroyed when we got it.
 
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