I'd like $1500 or best offer. I'll try to list the good and the bad, if I miss something, feel free to ask.
I'll list the good. Runs fine, smokes a little, has the ATS 088 turbo setup, T19, clutch a little over a year old. Front U-joints and Warn Premium hubs last year, "new" used radiator last year. Windshield also a bit over a year old. Has later model seat, two buckets and center fold down seat. No muffler, single 4" stack. Has turn-over gooseneck ball in the bed, and a class V hitch out back. Truck starts and runs every time I need it to, it's never been an issue, but she's got around 360,000 miles. 4 wheel drive works perfectly.
The bad: Needs a new core support, this one's been welded, and has been holding just fine, but the area that holds the body mount section is rotted. Could probably use front end bushings, has that lovely TTB axle, and the tires do the gangsta lean in reverse. Has some dents and dings, most notably the drivers side door, cab corner and front of the bed, and a spot on the hood above the passenger headlight. Has an old patch panel installed before I bought it on the drivers side bedside, and old body work on the passenger side that needs redone. Will need 2 tires due to the alignment. It may need gp's or a gp control, they quit working on me in February and I never bothered, because it still starts fine. There is no speedometer cable. Tail gate handle is broken.
The good or bad, depending on your perspective:
To start the truck, you have to flip a toggle switch, then the key. I'm not sure how this is wired in, or why it was done, but it was like that when I bought it, and it works, so I never looked into it. To shut it off, flip the toggle the other way. There is a Kats lower radiator hose coolant heater in it, but I'm not sure it works, I put it in last winter, and it worked then. The original compressor wheel in the turbo was trashed, so I bought a "core" turbo off ebay, it had a good wheel, so I installed it, and it's been fine. I have not checked to see if there's play in the turbo or not. The valve cover is cut out for the CDR, but the grommet/tube/whatever was there is long gone, and it's road drafted at this point. It has aluminum wheels, and stock size mud terrains (like I said earlier, will need 2), and a stock steel wheel with the same tire on it, never seen the road. Reverse lights are on a toggle, because I got tired of trying to get my hand up on top of the transmission to keep plugging it back in. There is a home brewed bumper on it, but I've removed the winch and lights for use on another truck. It has some leaks, but overall has been a pretty good truck. I have only ever taken this truck off road one time, and it wasn't abused then. If You have any questions I didn't answer here, feel free to contact me. I'm north of Pittsburgh PA.
I'm still sick, but I got my girlfriend to go out and snap a pic of the other side of the truck. Unfortunately, you can't see the cracked bondo work on the fenderwell. It needs a patch panel.
I'll list the good. Runs fine, smokes a little, has the ATS 088 turbo setup, T19, clutch a little over a year old. Front U-joints and Warn Premium hubs last year, "new" used radiator last year. Windshield also a bit over a year old. Has later model seat, two buckets and center fold down seat. No muffler, single 4" stack. Has turn-over gooseneck ball in the bed, and a class V hitch out back. Truck starts and runs every time I need it to, it's never been an issue, but she's got around 360,000 miles. 4 wheel drive works perfectly.
The bad: Needs a new core support, this one's been welded, and has been holding just fine, but the area that holds the body mount section is rotted. Could probably use front end bushings, has that lovely TTB axle, and the tires do the gangsta lean in reverse. Has some dents and dings, most notably the drivers side door, cab corner and front of the bed, and a spot on the hood above the passenger headlight. Has an old patch panel installed before I bought it on the drivers side bedside, and old body work on the passenger side that needs redone. Will need 2 tires due to the alignment. It may need gp's or a gp control, they quit working on me in February and I never bothered, because it still starts fine. There is no speedometer cable. Tail gate handle is broken.
The good or bad, depending on your perspective:
To start the truck, you have to flip a toggle switch, then the key. I'm not sure how this is wired in, or why it was done, but it was like that when I bought it, and it works, so I never looked into it. To shut it off, flip the toggle the other way. There is a Kats lower radiator hose coolant heater in it, but I'm not sure it works, I put it in last winter, and it worked then. The original compressor wheel in the turbo was trashed, so I bought a "core" turbo off ebay, it had a good wheel, so I installed it, and it's been fine. I have not checked to see if there's play in the turbo or not. The valve cover is cut out for the CDR, but the grommet/tube/whatever was there is long gone, and it's road drafted at this point. It has aluminum wheels, and stock size mud terrains (like I said earlier, will need 2), and a stock steel wheel with the same tire on it, never seen the road. Reverse lights are on a toggle, because I got tired of trying to get my hand up on top of the transmission to keep plugging it back in. There is a home brewed bumper on it, but I've removed the winch and lights for use on another truck. It has some leaks, but overall has been a pretty good truck. I have only ever taken this truck off road one time, and it wasn't abused then. If You have any questions I didn't answer here, feel free to contact me. I'm north of Pittsburgh PA.
You must be registered for see images attach
I'm still sick, but I got my girlfriend to go out and snap a pic of the other side of the truck. Unfortunately, you can't see the cracked bondo work on the fenderwell. It needs a patch panel.
You must be registered for see images attach
Last edited:
