87 F-250 6.9, won't start off key BUT does roll start?!?!

[Thefarmboy21]

I've got an 87 6.9 truck that sat for 10 years and I'm slowly working the bugs out of.

Main problem is this: the truck WILL NOT start off the key, but WILL roll start within a few feet. Sometimes it will start off the key after its warmed up, but only if you just shut it off for a minute or two. Now, with that being said, does anyone know if low oil pressure will shut these trucks down??? The factory gauge doesn't work (whether bad gauge or bad sender) but the aftermarket wet line gauge shows 25lb or so usually when it's cold. I have not tried to start it with a jumper wire to the FSV yet. So does anyone have a clue as to why it runs great just wont start off the switch?

Some other minor issues are: fuel gauge doesn't work, wipers are stuck upright and the radio picks and choses when to work. Also the front wheels are slanted in really bad.....I assume some new balljoints and an alignment are the way to fix that? It's a 4x4.

THANKS!!!

 

[icanfixall]

Your engine sounds like it needs a rebuilt injection pump. Reason I say this is the problem sounds like a heat soak issue. This is when the injection pump has worn so badly it can't make enough pressure to open the injecters unless its spinning very fast like when you bump start it. Its either this or you are getting some air in the fuel system. An easy fix for the air issue is to run a gallon tank of fuel from the lift pump suction hose. Just place the jug of fuel under the truck by the lift pump. Remove the rubber hose from the suction side and make a longer one to the gallon of fuel. Try to start the engine. If it starts and runs well shut it down and wait. Try to restart it. If it fires up you have found the problem was air sucking in from the rubber line at the pump or farther back in the fuel delivery system.

 

[Thefarmboy21]

It's not "heat soak" I don't think.... I just put a rebuilt pump on it. It will start off the key when warm.....heat soak means it WON'T start after its hot, is what I always thought. I'm thinking its getting air somehow. I've got a clear filter in place of water/fuel sep and I see air bubbles accumulating there.

 

[rlb245]

The rebuild pump info should have been included in your post. These gentlemen need all the information to help you.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks for the "new pump" addition .. So where did you get this "new pump" from...

 

[Thefarmboy21]

Sorry......guess I didn't think that was a factor since it was acting the same before I changed the IP. EXCEPT before it wouldn't start back hot period!

It's from Pensacola diesel I think. I bought it from a neighbor....he bought all new stuff for his, put it all on, drive it 25 miles one way to work and it started knocking. They pulled the head off and the piston walls were all jacked up. He changed the whole motor and sold me the blown motor with all the new stuff. And by new stuff I mean it sat in his garage for 5 years with only 25 miles on the "rebuilt pump and injectors" from Pensacola.

 

[79jasper]

Oh boy... Here we go....

Sounds electrical to me.
Does it always crank over with the key?

 

[Thefarmboy21]

Always cranks over with key and it has power to the FSV with key in on position, BUT that's why I asked about oil pressure shut down.....I don't know if when I start cranking if the FSV loses power.

 

[dgr]

Do you have power at the FSV while cranking?

 

[jwalterus]

start with it cold, run a piece of wire direct from the batt to the FSV, see if it starts with the key then

 

[GOOSE]

To answer your 1st question, these engines DO NOT have a low oil pressure shut down system. You can start the engine with ZERO oil in it and run it till it seizes if you wish.

Pensacola has a very bad rap for selling total junk but lets start with the basics. All 8 gp's and controller in good operating order? #2, air intrusion. #3, is the starter, batteries, cables in good condition? These engines need to turn sufficient rpm's to start. Compression test would be great info but most likely not needed at this point. Timing? Just giving you things to consider.

Don't assume that pump is good either, sorry to be the bearer of bad possibilities. Good luck, keep us posted. I am sure you will find the culprit.

 

[Thefarmboy21]

Thanks that was the main thing I was asking, no I can better diagnose everything.

I do not know if the FSV has power while cranking, that's what I've got to check the next time I get a change, then I'm gonna try the jug on the ground trick. The starting system seemed ok, but you never know I guess. I know that the pump could still be bad, but it runs a heck of a lot better with it than with the old pump, so that's why I kinda threw that out. Now the timing could very well have something to do with it....it definitely rattles more than it did, BUT I timed it just like I read here, could have went a little to far I guess :/

Here's the whole scenario though:
Ever since I pulled it off the hill and dropped a new motor in it, I've been working the bugs out of it. It always had heat soak, so I wouldn't drive it very far and I'd just leave it running all the time. Well in January it finally just wouldn't start period....hot out, cold out, plugged in, didn't matter. I figured the pump finally took a crap, that's when I found out my neighbor had a blown motor with all the new stuff on it. Bought it, swapped out the pump and still wouldn't start. Pulled it and it fired right up. Shut it off and started it back up and I thought my problems were all over. Next day I got in it to drive to work and wouldn't start again. Later we pull started it and it only went like 2 feet before it fired up again. Shut it off for about 20 minutes and again it wouldn't start off the key....so that's where I'm at right now. It sat for 10 years, took me a year to swap out the motor and now I've driven it twice since January. I've had so many bugs to figure out that I really have no idea what the real problem is. It sucks, cause I really like the truck, but all the trouble I've had really had the wife wanting me to sell it......it's been burning tags and insurance the whole time and its just sitting out on the farm.

 

[GOOSE]

Get a 12 volt indicating lamp and tie a wire from your FSS to the lamp . When ever your FSS has 12 volts, the indication lamp will be lit.

There is a small clance your ignition switch could be causing a glitch as you have outlined. This simple indicator light will give you some needed information. Good luck.

 

[Thefarmboy21]

Thanks, I'll find some help and try that.

 

[icanfixall]

These guys have really given you lots of ways to check for the problem start. Now I understand it tiff finding time to check the issues out but... Selling it or giving it away is a bad choice. So the wife is banging you on the head to get rid of that pos. Does she know what the license fee and insurance fee let alone repair costs on a newer all electronic controlled diesel. Just tell her a set of injecters for any powerstroke will cost about $4000.00 plus to install. Now all of a sudden that idi truck looks pretty good. Funny how monry talks and BS runs down the legg...