86 F-250 2WD Rear Brakes

[Stu Bailey]

Hey y’all,

I was getting ready to do my rear drum brakes tomorrow and was looking through the Haynes manual and something caught my eye. It says in order to do the Heavy Duty rear brake shoes you have to remove the axle and wheel hub and drum assembly. I bought everything to do an overhaul back there: drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinder, etc.
Anyone have any tips, advice, or knowledge about removing said parts? Removal of the full-floating axle shaft doesn’t sound like it will be too hard, it’s the rear wheel hub and bearings that is questionable. Manual says you need the correct LARGE SIZE socket to loosen the wheel bearing, I’m assuming this will allow you to remove the drum?
I saw a video on YouTube with a 79 and the dude had a 2-9/16” socket to remove the bearings and what not to slip the drum off.

So, if you need the large size socket, anyone know what size? Is it necessary like I believe it is? The truck is an 86 F-250 RWD single cab, LB, 6.9. I assume it has a free-floating axle because the axle sticks out through the wheel. Lastly, if anyone has done the rears on theirs could you confirm that the drums are 3” not the 2.5”?
Cheers oil burners and thank you!

 

[gnathv]

You should have a Sterling 10.25. Look on you tube for brake job on this axle. Shouldn’t need a big socket.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

With the Sterling axle, you don't need too remove the axle shaft either. Just remove the brake drum. I wouldn't be happy if I had to remove the hub every time that I wanted to work on the rear brakes so I'm extremely happy that I have Sterlings in my trucks.

 

[chillman88]

TYPICALLY the dually trucks got the wider brakes. Why don't you post up the axle code from your door tag so we can tell which axle you're supposed to have. I know I looked at an 85 that had a Dana 60 on it, not sure what year they switched.

 

[Cubey]

TYPICALLY the dually trucks got the wider brakes. Why don't you post up the axle code from your door tag so we can tell which axle you're supposed to have. I know I looked at an 85 that had a Dana 60 on it, not sure what year they switched.

Seems like I pulled a diff cover from a junk yard Ford van years ago that had a Dana 60 that was early 90s I think. Got it for the 78 Dodge I had with a messed up fill plug.

 

[Cubey]

With the Sterling axle, you don't need too remove the axle shaft either. Just remove the brake drum. I wouldn't be happy if I had to remove the hub every time that I wanted to work on the rear brakes so I'm extremely happy that I have Sterlings in my trucks.

I had to go back and look at a photo from when I worked on my F250 because that didn't seem right, but it was. The reason I pulled the axle shaft was because I was doing the inner wheel seal.

My RV's Dana 70 on the other hand... axle shaft and dually drum/hub must come off.

 

[Stu Bailey]

Axle code says 39, I hope it is the Sterling. Not needing a giant ass socket sounds great.
After looking around last night I did find some info on working with a Sterling. Looks like that was common for the earlier model F250s? Thanks gents

 

[chillman88]

Axle code says 39, I hope it is the Sterling. Not needing a giant ass socket sounds great.
After looking around last night I did find some info on working with a Sterling. Looks like that was common for the earlier model F250s? Thanks gents

That is listed as a 10.25 with an open carrier and 3.55 gears as long as it hasn't been changed so you should be ok.

I'd just pull the wheel off and if the drums slide off it should be the 10.25. Then you can double check the pad width while you're there.

 

[Stu Bailey]

Thanks @chillman88

 

[Cubey]

Axle code says 39, I hope it is the Sterling. Not needing a giant ass socket sounds great.
After looking around last night I did find some info on working with a Sterling. Looks like that was common for the earlier model F250s? Thanks gents

The huge sockets aren't too expensive, about $20.

 

[Stu Bailey]

Got the brakes put in rather easy. Definitely did not need to pull the axle out, I must have got something mixed up in the Haynes manual.
Feels good to have breaks again!

 

[Stu Bailey]

The huge sockets aren't too expensive, about $20.

Ended up seeing one at NAPA for $17. Seems like a good socket to have in case I ever need to service the axle shaft. Saw some YouTube videos where the person had gear oil leaking out all over the place and had to replace the hub bearings and stuff

 

[IDIBRONCO]

TYPICALLY the dually trucks got the wider brakes.

This is why I'm going to cheat with mine. I'm going to mount the two new tires that I bought on the rear to check the clearances between them (just in case). When I do that, I'm going to pull a drum off and measure the shoes since there won't be any better time to make sure.

Ended up seeing one at NAPA for $17. Seems like a good socket to have in case I ever need to service the axle shaft.

It's been a long time since I've been into a semi floating axle, but it seems like that took a hex socket to remove the nuts and I know that the Sterling takes a different style of socket. It's similar to the socket that works on the nuts on the front of a 4X4. In fact, that Dana 50 takes the same socket to remove the front hubs as the Sterling takes to remove the axle nuts.

 

[Cubey]

Ended up seeing one at NAPA for $17. Seems like a good socket to have in case I ever need to service the axle shaft. Saw some YouTube videos where the person had gear oil leaking out all over the place and had to replace the hub bearings and stuff

The socket for (some) Danas is not the same as for Sterlings.

Older Danas use one like this if they have the nylok style nut.

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Danas and Sterlings with the ratcheting nut use these:

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I upgraded my Dana 70 to use ratcheting nuts even though the LH side is RH threads instead of LH threads. It hasn't come loose though in 2500 miles though so it's fine. The tiny little wedge used on nylok nuts is probably weaker than a ratcheting nut mechanism.

Nylok/wedge:

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Ratcheting:

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[Stu Bailey]

So I got to thinking about this all on my drive home today. When my brakes went soft the other week the pedal would go to the floor and I had “no” brakes. I got home and popped the hood, checked the master cylinder and found that the front, or smaller chamber, was bone dry. When I got the wheels off I found that a rear wheel cylinder had gone and that’s where I was leaking all my break fluid out of.
It may be my lack of experience or knowledge, but how did I have NO brakes if just the chamber for the rear went dry? Shouldn’t the larger chamber in the master which had plenty of fluid still work for the front disc brakes?