7.3, Turbo, Bored .040, Heads Skimmed

[jay_t]

Should I check this truck out, or run and hide? The mileage is barely past the break in for a rebuild. My concern is the amount bored out with all the other "stress" increasing mods. Anyone here have a 7.3 bored .040 over? Would you do it again? Thanks.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcomr to the forum. My short answer is nope. Don't buy it but.. I really ned more information on this. Is this a truck, van or what. Is it in or from the rust belt. Whats the asking price and whats the condition of the rig overall. If your looking for a short answer and not going to supply more information then... No. We really try to explain answers here. Short descriptions are a worthy as short one word answers. Really kind od useless. Pics are an even better way to show or ask questions.

 

[jay_t]

Thanks icanfixall.

Here is what is for sale, 1989 Ford F250 XLT Lariat 7.3 diesel 4x4 $8750

This truck is rebuilt top to bottom. The motor is totally rebuilt top to bottom it is bored .040 over the block is shaved for a little more compression the heads are machined for more air flow the injection pump was recently rebuilt, It has an ATS turbo kit on it with a custom built air intake the turbo is also rebuilt. It has all new glow plugs, controllers, relays, new starter. The motor is completely built there is too much stuff to list but have all written down what is done to it. The trans was rebuilt not too long ago along with all new gaskets and seals. It has a brand new clutch with high performance pressure plate and SFI approved steel flywheel. I have brand custom built heavier duty built driveshafts and new u joints. The front end is all rebuilt new bearings, ball joints, u joints, seals and gaskets and all new brakes all the around the truck. The front end was recently aligned and got new tie rods and tie rod ends.The rear axle has all new bearings and seals and all new brakes. All fluids a routinely changed and rotating of tires. There is about 5000 miles on the motor, trans, complete driveline and tires. There is about 120,000 miles on the body the truck was repainted red this spring and the frame was painted with a black frame coating spray.

I have a 92 f250 7.3 4x4 and I am always looking for another.

 

[NTOLERANCE]

Cant hide it from us, here is the add.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4150211997.html

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[NTOLERANCE]

And to answer your question, TTB front axle, 7.3 bored out (BAD idea, unless its been sleeved) , modified heads/runners/precup (who knows what mas modified for "more air flow") and turbo (turbos usually like less compression and decking the block is a poor way to gain it) .......I would pass.

Nice looking rig, lots of work and love into that unit, but a big chunk of $ for a potential issue.

 

[jay_t]

Thanks for the input. Nothing can hide on the webs. Looks like they dropped the price a bit from last week. Still learning about the idi engine and what to look for when buying.

 

[hallgren87idi]

i cant see why anyone would punch out a 7.3 .40 over cuz they already got thinner cylinder walls, unless the motor has been rebuilt a couple times. i dunno, doesent sound like a good idea to me, but to each their own.

 

[idiabuse]

If the block is not pinholed, AKA cavitated, then the .040 size is nothing to worry about, these cylinders are usually .250 thick
I checked my block and another I had for wall thickness and it was .275 thickest and .195 thinnest.
I would not worry about it one bit, I would though have some EVANS Coolant ready to pour in, so then I really would never have to worry about any cooling issues again.


Javier

 

[OLDBULL8]

Personally I wouldn't even test drive it around the block for fear the engine would blow up, then be accused of ........

$8750 or $8200 for an 89, WOW Nice looking truck, his excuse for selling it sounds phony to me. A bigger truck around the farm?

No way Jose. But as Barnum said "There's a sucker born every day".

 

[gatorman21218]

If the block is not pinholed, AKA cavitated, then the .040 size is nothing to worry about, these cylinders are usually .250 thick
I checked my block and another I had for wall thickness and it was .275 thickest and .195 thinnest.
I would not worry about it one bit, I would though have some EVANS Coolant ready to pour in, so then I really would never have to worry about any cooling issues again.
Javier

I had mine sonic checked and it was plenty thick enough. Dont remember the exact numbers off the top of my head. I bored mine 30 over. Remember when you bore it out 40 over, you are only taking 20 off the sides.

 

[Fozz]

My old engine was either 20 or 30 over, can't remember....but I wasn't worried about it. The block might have been decked to square it, and the heads shaved for a good flat true sealing surface....I have done that. If done, then the valves need to be recessed in the head a little deeper to allow for proper valve to pistion clearance. That's a lot of $$ for that truck, but if everything listed is true and done right.....it's a new truck.

 

[NO_SPRK]

This guy describes the truck and the work done to it like a gasser.. if it didnt say diesel id think it was a 460.

The work he talks about sounds shady. Id stay far away from it

 

[lindstromjd]

First thing that comes to my mind is... why the HELL would you want to INCREASE compression on a 7.3 turbo? The whole point behind cavitation is the insanely high compression ratio (20:1 I think?) and the decreased thickness of the cylinder walls. So you're going to decrease the cylinder walls even more, and then increase the compression? That's just asking for your engine to cavitate about 100 times quicker than it would from the factory.

 

[Can30Diesel]

Well it sounds like some people have had similar engines without issue and who knows, maybe this motor was done properly and it would last for a long time. But if it was me, I'd be feeling like I was driving a time bomb, someone hid the timer and no one knows how close it is to 0.

 

[jaluhn83]

Not for that money. I wouldn't trust the motor unless I knew who did the work. Sounds like someone who didn't have a clue about diesels messing with it thinking gasser mods would work the same.

The thinner the walls are, the more prone it'll be to cavitation. Bored and sleeved with proper sca's and it should be fine, but without knowing that there's no way I'd mess with a 0.040 over 7.3.