7.3 hard to start

[cash]

I will be checking out those bat cables tomorrow. Is there any way to test them?

 

[redneckaggie]

not really that i know of besides the heat check but as cheap as the cables are compared to a starter if they are very old i would replace them. you can get 4 or 6 ga wire, a bunch of connections, electrical tape and some electrical grease and make your own. make sure you use that electrical grease, crimp the connections tight and electrical tape everthing that isn't at the battery connection. I had a friend do this and it worked out awesome.

also no one has mentioned anythind about the solenoid on the firewall. I would think that you can lose juice through a bad connection on or inside the solenoid.

hope this helps

 

[cash]

good point on the solenoid thanks

 

[cash]

not really that i know of besides the heat check but as cheap as the cables are compared to a starter if they are very old i would replace them. you can get 4 or 6 ga wire, a bunch of connections, electrical tape and some electrical grease and make your own. make sure you use that electrical grease, crimp the connections tight and electrical tape everthing that isn't at the battery connection. I had a friend do this and it worked out awesome.

also no one has mentioned anythind about the solenoid on the firewall. I would think that you can lose juice through a bad connection on or inside the solenoid.

hope this helps

You can by pass the solenoid on the fenderwell and it cranks the same.

 

[cash]

Yes, but what kind of shape are the battery cables in? If they are stock , chances are, they are due for replacement. They can get an insane amount of corrosion built up inside the cables near the ends, great batts won't do any good if the juice can't get through.

The first thing to get hot is the starter after cranking about 20 sec twice. Or long enough that it is really spinning over plenty fast to start. I had the ingition off in order to heat things up.
I thought it was interesting that it would still crank slow at first and then faster even though I did not have any voltage to the IP.

 

[cash]

GOOd NEWS

Thanks again for all the thought and encouragement
It seams I was leading us off track by going with Oriley’s starter test the starter was bad and Auto Zone made good on the 1999 lifetime warrantee.
Anyway the good news is I put in the new starter and started it cold with no glow, how cool is that!!!

 

[Full Monte]

You may still not be quite out of the woods on this. The question is "why did the starter go bad"? In addition to replacing it, you should very carefully look at ALL your battery cable connections (like previously recommended)...both ends for corrosion. Also look just on the cable side of the connectors for corrosion in all the little copper wires that go into the connectors. If you have any of this, your new starter will eventually do what the old one did because it will draw too much current to compensate for the corroded connectors.

 

[cash]

Full Monte Your right I noticed some of the copper was frayed at the starter connection.
I am suspecting from getting hot, maybe?
I can’t find anything else. These are soder connections I wonder if I can cut about 1" off and resoder. I know a poor man has poor ways