6.9 van having some issues with smoke and power

genscripter

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If you can, I would just buy a simple WIX combo filter like this: https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-33417-Heavy-Separator/dp/B000CSIODU

Fill it with fuel and install it on your top-of-engine diesel filter head.

Where is this "other fuel fitler/water separator?" Is it on the frame rail? If yes, then buy a few feet of 3/8" fuel hose and bypass your "other" fuel filter. Just use the lift pump and top-of-engine filter setup. The new WIX filter will work fine. And it's simple design will reduce the change for air intrusion. Skipping the other filter eliminates anything the PO might have done to cause air intrusion.

With this new setup, you should have a simple system: fuel tank to FSV to lift pump to filter to IP.

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Also, make sure you have full fuel tanks, just in case your fuel pickup broke in the tank. If you fuel tank pickup broke, you can only get fuel from 1/4 tank to full tank. Under 1/4 tank won't reach the end of the straw.
I wrote a big spiel about how to fix that in a van here and here:

http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...di-van-center-diesel-tank-sender-replacement/

http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...rd-van-fuel-tank-sender-replacement-tutorial/
 

Thewespaul

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If you can, I would just buy a simple WIX combo filter like this: https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-33417-Heavy-Separator/dp/B000CSIODU

Fill it with fuel and install it on your top-of-engine diesel filter head.

Where is this "other fuel fitler/water separator?" Is it on the frame rail? If yes, then buy a few feet of 3/8" fuel hose and bypass your "other" fuel filter. Just use the lift pump and top-of-engine filter setup. The new WIX filter will work fine. And it's simple design will reduce the change for air intrusion. Skipping the other filter eliminates anything the PO might have done to cause air intrusion.

With this new setup, you should have a simple system: fuel tank to FSV to lift pump to filter to IP.

You must be registered for see images attach


Also, make sure you have full fuel tanks, just in case your fuel pickup broke in the tank. If you fuel tank pickup broke, you can only get fuel from 1/4 tank to full tank. Under 1/4 tank won't reach the end of the straw.
I wrote a big spiel about how to fix that in a van here and here:

http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...di-van-center-diesel-tank-sender-replacement/

http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...rd-van-fuel-tank-sender-replacement-tutorial/
6.9s use seperate fuel filter and water seperator
 

birdsteve

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Alright. Update.

So it's still an hour away in another town at a non-diesel mechanic because I haven't been able to coordinate with my friend on getting his trailer and truck to tow it until Monday.

Ideally, I want to just drive it home.

I had the mechanic put on a new mechanical lift pump, but that didn't do anything to help, but I have good fuel pressure now. It's only idling and won't really drive. It also has good compression.

The mechanic thinks I got some nasty diesel fuel from a station because it's orange and the filter was funky as hell and he said it's just nasty. But, I did use ATF and diesel keen in the new fuel filter when I did it myself, because I was stranded and had to. So that's probably why the fuel is orangeish (but maybe it's something else).

The guy wants to charge me 200 to drain the tank and all the lines and put new diesel in it and he is certain that will solve the problem. He thinks there's a lot of water in the diesel.

I am stumped. Could it really be something as simple as injector O-rings or an air leak if it was driving before? keep in mind it was puffing white smoke down the highway a bit.

HMMMMMMMMM
 

Ford420ci6point9

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Check the compression on cyl 7 and 8 my grandfather had low power and it turned out it overheated and warped the heads in the back see if you can see the heads lifting off the firedeck.
 

birdsteve

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Check the compression on cyl 7 and 8 my grandfather had low power and it turned out it overheated and warped the heads in the back see if you can see the heads lifting off the firedeck.

will do, there is likely some lifting of the head since there is oil residue around the driver rear side of the head. Might need to crank it down since the 6.9 narrow bolts stretch.
 

riphip

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They also break. Check to be sure the valve cover is not leaking. Head gasket usually is coolant leak but not always. More likely VC leak. Replace gaskets if too bad. Do not re-torque old head bolts.
 

birdsteve

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They also break. Check to be sure the valve cover is not leaking. Head gasket usually is coolant leak but not always. More likely VC leak. Replace gaskets if too bad. Do not re-torque old head bolts.

Ah, it is the valve cover, my bad. Leaky valve cover on the rear driver side, but not awful.
 

birdsteve

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alright here's the update:

I managed to drive the van the hour home and it did OK. It didn't really want to go over 50 and flooring it was almost doing nothing at that speed. it drives fine at low speeds and is peppy. BUT it's still got a fair bit of white smoke when driving, and it's pretty stinky (according to my gf who drive behind me). So I'm replacing the CDR valve because it looks TOAST, as well as a new air filter.

What about advancing the IP?
It also could be a funky injector, but I'm not sure.
 

riphip

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Go to Amazon online & get a couple of These:
Liqui Moly 2005 Diesel Purge - 500 ml.
Get a new filter & fill with this, put remainder in tank you are running on. Run truck for about 10 minutes Then turn off & let set over night. May want to get more, is cheaper now than my pricing in 2015.
Go to www.lubricationspecialties.com and get a 2 quart STICTION treatment for your next oil change. Their site has a lot of great products. What I use now with great results (2 years).
Make sure your throttle cable plastic is not broken where it mounts at the intake, under the air filter housing.
I would advance the timing (to the passenger's side, not running) if cable plastic mount is ok.
 

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