6.9 van having some issues with smoke and power

[birdsteve]

Hey all, I am the proud new owner of a 1986 Ford E350 with a 6.9 N/A and C6 transmission. Someone also put headers to dual 2.5 exhaust. I am new to owning a diesel as well, and could use some help.

The previous owner flew from FL to Colorado to drive this thing back. He said it had no issues other than an occasional issue with the lift pump (but whenever I depress the fuel filter valve while cranking, it spews at a high rate). I drove it 3 hours home to Gainesville and it ran fine, except when I stopped to *** in the national forest, it cut out as I stopped, but started right back up and continued the drive fine.
When driving over 55 it makes a steady popping out of the exhaust, almost as if a bracket is broken and bouncing into itself, but it's definitely the exhaust. It puffs a bit of whitish smoke in time with the exhaust pops, and has a pretty harsh smell. It also has some leakage on the driver side above the headers, and the CDR valve looks wet/dirty on the faceplate. The oil reads about a centimeter within the oil gauge on the low end, even though I added 3 quarts. It has the K&N filter, which I've read is bad and has a bit of oil in the intake along with a bit of oily looking dirt, so the CDR might be funky.

It fires right up and then slightly stumbles, but I just give it a tiny bit of gas and it is good to go and sounds like a happy sewing machine. There is a little white smoke when it starts, but goes away until about 40+. The glow plugs click on and off 2 or 3 times, then stay off.

I drove it for an hour at 55 the other day to take it to a body shop, and it died for about 10 minutes before it started again. Then I drove a little further and it died again, but saved it again. Then, when turning into a gas station, it totally cut out, but luckily a guy helped me push it and gave me a ride to auto zone on his harley so I could get some fuel additive, some oil, and some ether in case I couldn't get it to a diesel shop easily. I got it to the shop, but the guy couldn't help me much and suggested disconnecting the intake tube from the airbox. I disconnected the intake tube to the air box in hopes of getting more airflow in, since the tube that carries it back seems like its opening is really small. I ended up limping it home at 40mph for an hour and it made it.
Whenever I hold it at steady speed without cruise control, it feels like it stumbles briefly when I'm over 40 mph every few minutes, and seems to constantly be puffing a bit of light smoke when I'm over 45mph, just enough to notice in the mirror, but as I speed up, it becomes thicker (and eventually pops and puffs at 55+). I pretty much have to limp it at below 45 to guarantee no issues and avoiding anything too catastrophic.


The only gauges it has are MPH, temp, battery, fuel, and oil (level?).

I think it might be the CDR (burning oil and leaking), as well as maybe needing a new fuel filter (general bogging). It might also be the IP or injectors. I'm comfortable with doing most repairs, but haven't done a head gasket or anything that intensive.

What do ya'll think?

ALSO JUST REALIZED, it is likely the fuel filter clogging because I added a fuel additive and I'm not sure if the kid that had it before me used any, so it might have cleared out some of that gunk, but what about the popping etc.

 

[Thewespaul]

Welcome to the forum Steve, it does sound like you have a fuel supply issue. Start with the fuel filter and see what that does.


For the popping, you could definitely have an injector hanging open. Loosen one injector line at a time and see if the popping goes away or changes in tone. This will tell you which one is your issue

 

[IDIBRONCO]

By your comment of it died while turning in to a gas station, I'd also lean toward the lift pump. Where you said that it pops and puffs at 55 MPH, I'm not sure that would be an injector. I'd think that an injector would do that almost all of the time. back to my first guess, I'm wondering if the lift pump can't keep at 55. It may be getting weak and may keep up in park while revving the engine, but going down the road, you're under more of a load. First, I'd do like Wes said and change out the fuel filter.

 

[genscripter]

I'd say that you aren't getting enough fuel at higher RPM's. LIke IDIBRONCO said, it could be the lift pump, but I think it could also be that fuel filter. Sounds like it's starving for fuel a bit after a certain threshold.

When I bought my '84 E350 6.9 IDI, it too had an issue that wouldn't let the van drive over 40 mph. The PO had put some cobbed-up rube goldberg style fuel delivery system that was garbage. I think it had some air intrusion, clogged lines/filters, etc (probably similar to your problems), so I threw out all that crap. I put in new hoses from the fuel selector up to the diesel filter head with an inline duralift e-pump, and removed all the PO's "improvisations." He didn't know what he was doing. Once I put all new hoses in, and purged the air, it ran fine over 40mph.

If you want lots more IDI Van info, visit my website: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/ I've had an '84, '88, '93, and various IDI van engines and turbos, so I put all my info on the web. Hope it helps you, since most of the other IDI knowledge on the internet is about the trucks.

 

[nostrokes]

Welcome to the forum, lots of good info and knowledgeable members.

X4 on the filter, I'd change it out, do the tranny fluid treatment in the filter (fill the new one with tranny fluid, run it for a few seconds and let it sit overnight) and give it a good heavy dose of diesel kleen in the tank.
After that maybe rig up a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve, and go for a drive. Jot down your pressures at the speeds it has troubles and report back.

 

[birdsteve]

Welcome to the forum Steve, it does sound like you have a fuel supply issue. Start with the fuel filter and see what that does.


For the popping, you could definitely have an injector hanging open. Loosen one injector line at a time and see if the popping goes away or changes in tone. This will tell you which one is your issue

I guess I could have the engine cover in the cab open while a friend is driving and loosen them while we go down a country road

 

[birdsteve]

I think y'all are right about the lift pump being the issue. It probably just can't dump enough fuel and ends up burning more oil than anything. I'll check it out when I get it back from the body shop on Friday. It's currently having windshield frame rust fixed

 

[genscripter]

I guess I could have the engine cover in the cab open while a friend is driving and loosen them while we go down a country road

NO!

When you are cracking injectors, DO NOT do it while driving. As convenient it is to remove the doghouse and try this while driving, just do it while you are idling in park.

Here's an article explaining how to crack injector lines (for purging air), but the logic is still the same for testing injectors. http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...and-purge-air-on-a-6-9-7-3-idi-diesel-engine/

 

[birdsteve]

So, I went to pick up the van from the body shop and it started up immediately, but was driving like it was out of gas and then stalled. Luckily I got it to the auto zone down the road and changed the fuel filter, but that didn't do much in terms of anything. There was no air in the filter, and started fine, but it just doesn't want to drive. It'll idle all day. I tried checking the fuel pressure and the gauge wasn't really picking up anything. It was either on 0 or 1.

I ended up having to ditch it at a random mechanic since it was 9 at night and my lady friend was over it since we still had to drive an hour home. Luckily the mechanic is nice, but they don't do diesels.

I'm pretty positive it is the lift pump now, so I'll buy a mechanical lift pump so that I can do a quick swap in the field, and then hopefully that will get it home.

Is there anything else I should consider? I'll bleed the injector valves after I put the new pump on. Does anyone know where the pump is on a van? I'll probably just refer to the www.nickpisca.com articles for instruction.


Is there anything else I should check or order ahead of time? I have stiction eliminator for the oil (which is low but I'll top it off). Should I do the CD-R valve while I'm in there? Would that make a big difference?

 

[genscripter]

If you don't have fuel pressure, it probably is the lift pump. It could be a pinched line, but you might as well replace the lift pump while you are at it.

If you had time, you could buy a Duralift Facet 7-9 psi e-pump and install it on the rail, but since you are in a rush, you should just replace the lift pump on the passenger side of the block.

Your lift pump is located on the passenger side of the block, near the harmonic balancer.

You must be registered for see images attach

In the image above, you can see the block-off plate (The chrome diamond shaped thing on the middle lower left) that covers where I used to have my lift pump. Now it has a block off plate (because I use the e-pump).

The lift pump replacement is a pretty simple job. You do not need to drain the oil (it won't pour out of the crankcase), but if you get messy with the gasket removal, you might get some gunk in your crankcase and it might be prudent to change the oil regardless.

Once you have the lift pump out, the hole will look like this:

You must be registered for see images attach

The lift pump is driven by the cam. That means you have to put the lift pump arm back in precisely the way it was taken out. If you put it the wrong way on the cam, then it will brake the lift pump arm.


I have a photo of how the cam touches the lift pump arm on my phone, so it'll take me a while to find it.

Unless you have x-ray vision, you won't be able to see thru the block to confirm the placement of the lift pump arm. The best you can do is remember how your old lift pump arm felt when you pulled it out. You'll notice that the old lift pump will press to one direction, and try to replicate that when you install the new lift pump.

Use a new gasket and probably some permatex when reinstalling the new lift pump. Reconnect the fuel lines and purge the air from the fuel lines. That's about it.

I'll find that photo.

 

[genscripter]

I found the picture. Here's how the cam and lift pump arm connect. This reference picture is taken from the underside of the IDI block, with the timing front plate cover off, crankshaft removed, and the oil pan removed.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Don't forget to at least break the pressure fuel line fitting loose before removing the mounting bolts. The nut on the fuel line will take a 5/8" open end wrench and for a little extra pump holding power, you can slip a 3/4" open wrench on the bottom of the pump just behind the fuel line nut.

 

[birdsteve]

So I changed out the lift pump, and the truck starts fine and idles fine, but it's still not driving properly at all. I'm not really sure what it is now... it'll drive fine for a few blocks, and then it starts feeling like it's running out of gas..


Totally stumped and feeling like I should've bought a different van! Argh

 

[genscripter]

A long time ago, I bought an '84 IDI van with similar running problems. The PO didn't know what he was doing, and tried to fix everything with jerry-rigged stuff, and it led to problems.

My suggestion to you is try driving this van from a diesel can. Run a 3/8" hose from the diesel can to the lift pump and put a hose from the rear return tee to your same diesel can.

That way, you bypassed your existing diesel fuel circuit. If you can drive fine with the diesel can, then you know your problem is with the fuel pickups in the tank, fuel lines, FSV, or elsewhere.

If you still have fuel issues while running the diesel can, then the problem is your filter, IP, or injectors or fuel lines from the lift pump to the filter.

 

[birdsteve]

Could it be the other fuel filter/water separator? I forgot about that one.. its still stuck out of town so I am at the mercy of a mechanic unfortunately..