6.9 engine swap questions

[69800]

I just bought another beat up 85 f250 6.9 auto because it has a pretty new engine in it but the truck is very rough.
My truck is very nice with a worn out engine. 6.9
Next week I will swap engines. What is the easiest what to do this? Pull the hood and radiatior or take the front end off? I only want the engine and flywheel needs a ring gear. My transfer case and auto trans are in great shape. I do not have a chilton book;. Is there anything else you can think of I should do while the engine is out. No leaks of any kind.

Can anybody find me the torques for the engine to transmission bolts (C-6) and flywheel to convertor nuts as well as motor mount nuts and accessory bolts I would really appreciate it if it's not too much trouble.

Thanks Mark

 

[Smokey73]

I think its a lot easier to just go ahead and remove the whole front clip, but then again I've only pulled two of these things. Plus your a lot less likely to damage something pulling it out

 

[tractorman86]

it wont be as easy to slide the engine in and out but it would be worlds less work to just do the rad and hood, but as smokey said it is easier to damage something like that.

 

[RLDSL]

At the very least pull the rad and core support so you can go straight out with it. You don't want to have to lift that sucker over the top. Do yourself a real favour and take the cab mounts loose and jack the cab up and set it on about 6" blocks and it makes the whole process rather pleasant

 

[k_williams1982]

I've done a 6.9 and a 7.3 swap. Both times, I went over the top. I removed the radiator and fan just to make sure that I had clearance. When I did the 6.9 swap, I set the hood off and found out it is hard to put back in place and line up if you're doing it by yourself (other half was pissed off at me and refused to help). On the 7.3, I unbolted the hinges from the fender and tied the hood back (be careful of the crowl though). Just disconnect the fuel return line, the fuel inlet at the fuel pump, and unplug the harness at the passenger firewall. Pull the starter (Be sure to disconnect the batteries! I found out that we can almost "weld" with the starter supply wire.) and disconnect the exhaust at the manifolds. 6 bolts around the engine to transmission, and 4 torque convertor nuts. Unbolt the motor mounts, and she's out. I might have forgot a few minor things, and of course a turboed engine is a little different, but I think that covers the major things. I'll check my manuals and try to find you the torque specs.

 

[69800]

"You don't want to have to lift that sucker over the top." I have a fork lift. Will this make over the top easier? the radiator and the core support make sense.
"I unbolted the hinges from the fender"
What hinges... the hood?

unplug the harness at the passenger firewall..l.The whole harness uplugs???
thanks
mark

 

[k_williams1982]

"You don't want to have to lift that sucker over the top." I have a fork lift. Will this make over the top easier? the radiator and the core support make sense.
"I unbolted the hinges from the fender"
What hinges... the hood?

unplug the harness at the passenger firewall..l.The whole harness uplugs???
thanks
mark

Where the spring loaded "hinge" bolts to the inner fenderwall. The will be two bolt that hold it to the hood, and one that holds it to the fenderwall. The WHOLE harness unplugs at the passenger fender (IP, GPs, alt., temp & oil wires, etc.). The only wires not in that plug are the starter and ground wires. Follow your harness from the engine over the passenger side valve cover and there should be a plug (8 wires I believe) that will disconnect. Lay the harness from the engine over the top of valve cover onto the engine, and the wiring is disconnected.

 

[69800]

Very helpful... Thanks

 

[tknomaj]

6.9 swap

Here hope this will help

1986 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Pickup V8-6.9L DSL
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Service and Repair
F-250---350


Disconnect battery ground cables and remove hood.
Drain cooling system, then remove air cleaner and intake duct assembly.
Place a suitable cover over intake manifold opening.
Remove fan shroud, then the fan and clutch assembly. The fan retaining nut has left hand threads.
Disconnect upper and lower hoses and the automatic transmission cooler lines from radiator.
Remove radiator.
If equipped, remove A/C compressor drive belt, then remove and position compressor on radiator upper support.
Remove power steering pump drive belt and remove and position pump aside.
Disconnect fuel supply line heater and alternator wiring from alternator.
Remove oil pressure sender from firewall and lay sender on engine.
Disconnect accelerator cable and speed control cable, if equipped, from injection pump.
Remove accelerator cable bracket, with cables, from intake manifold and position aside.
If equipped, disconnect transmission kickdown rod from injection pump.
Disconnect main wiring harness connector from right side of engine.
Disconnect ground strap from rear of engine.
Disconnect fuel return hose from left rear of engine.
Remove two upper engine to transmission attaching bolts.
Disconnect heater hoses from water pump and righthand cylinder head.
Disconnect water temperature sender wiring from left front of cylinder block.
Disconnect water temperature overheat light switch from top front of lefthand cylinder head.
Raise and support vehicle.
Disconnect battery ground cables from lower front of engine and remove from vehicle.
Disconnect and plug fuel inlet line from supply pump.
Disconnect starter motor wiring.
Disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold.
Remove bolts attaching front engine mounts from front crossmember.
Remove flywheel cover, then the converter to flywheel attaching nuts.
Lower vehicle and support transmission with a suitable jack.
Attach suitable engine lifting equipment to engine and raise engine slightly to clear the front crossmember and pull engine forward. Move front of engine approximately 45 degrees toward the left side of engine compartment, then lift engine from vehicle. Use care not to damage the wiper motor when removing engine.
Reverse procedure to install.

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[Agnem]

I've become a real fan of pulling the front clip. It used to seem like a big deal, but really it's only 12 fasteners, and you get a very important side beneft - that of being able to check on your core support and front clip body mounts. That area is largely ignored, and rusts terribly. Periodic cleanup is a huge benefit. You don't have to take the hood off, if you support it with a strap over the cab roof. The wiring does come out very easily, and you can use the common 2000# cherry picker everybody and their brother sells to pull the motor. The biggest drawback is if you have to work alone. If you don't have a helper, you can forget pulling the clip.

 

[69800]

Ok I think I have it all now. Thanks for the proceedure and torque chart. I may take agmems advice and pull the front clip.
thanks again
mark