3g alternator part #'s for v-belt idi's

nelstomlinson

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Some have tried adding an idler, which I did at first, but the long belt still presents a problem with vibration. I use the cog belts and have had good service from them.
Had a friend working in Alaska 1 year when it got to -80 windchill I think & he said everything was throwing serpentine belts everywhere on the highways.
The winter before the oil spill we had weeks of -50F to -70F; not wind chill but actual temperature. If you started a vehicle at those temperatures, the belts were likely to shatter. There were bits of belt scattered over the grocery store parking lots, left by the few who were foolish enough to turn their engines off while they shopped.
 

stick_witch

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Had a friend working in Alaska 1 year when it got to -80 windchill I think & he said everything was throwing serpentine belts everywhere on the highways.

Hahaha yupppp. Haven’t had winters like that for a long long time. This last winter it got pretty cold in the mornings though, like -30 for a couple weeks. Didn’t stop me from starting my car without the block heater and taking my car 40 miles down the Turnagain arm in blizzards to go to work every morning in Girdwood though:Thumbs Up
 

stick_witch

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The winter before the oil spill we had weeks of -50F to -70F; not wind chill but actual temperature. If you started a vehicle at those temperatures, the belts were likely to shatter. There were bits of belt scattered over the grocery store parking lots, left by the few who were foolish enough to turn their engines off while they shopped.
I wasn’t in AK then, but yeesh thats freakin cold.:eek:
 

SuperDave

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I got my 3g alternator off a 95 windstar van with a 3.8 v6 at the salvage yard and the wiring harness off an 01 expedition because it had the the handy dandy little fuse holder already built in and I only had to splice 1 wire to make it work on the 86 I just robbed the dead 1g of its pulley and installed it on the 3g and let it roll. I did wind up going one size down with the belt to eliminate the "flapping" that the idi is already known for. If you want a (almost) direct bolt in go on rock auto and order yourself a o.e alternator for a 92 e350 van with a 7.3 as it is already set up to occupy the same space as your stock alternator so all the customizing you have to do is the wiring part. Also a warning from me learning the hard way, most cars that use the 3g are of the smaller 7.25 mounting pattern and would require additional fabrication. There used to be a chart that showed what applications would work and what would not
 

stick_witch

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I got my 3g alternator off a 95 windstar van with a 3.8 v6 at the salvage yard and the wiring harness off an 01 expedition because it had the the handy dandy little fuse holder already built in and I only had to splice 1 wire to make it work on the 86 I just robbed the dead 1g of its pulley and installed it on the 3g and let it roll. I did wind up going one size down with the belt to eliminate the "flapping" that the idi is already known for. If you want a (almost) direct bolt in go on rock auto and order yourself a o.e alternator for a 92 e350 van with a 7.3 as it is already set up to occupy the same space as your stock alternator so all the customizing you have to do is the wiring part. Also a warning from me learning the hard way, most cars that use the 3g are of the smaller 7.25 mounting pattern and would require additional fabrication. There used to be a chart that showed what applications would work and what would not
Yeah, I wanted to get the 92 e250/e350 alt, but I couldn’t seem to get it to ship up here to AK for a reasonable price, so i just went with a 95 3.8 mustang 11:00 alt from DB electrical for like $125 shipped, clocked it to 3:00, put the stock vbelt pulley on it and it fit perfectly, except for one of the alt case bolt heads coming into contact with the diesel filter mount column behind the alt. To fix this, I simply took a 1/2in drill and partially bored out the hole for the bolt so that it sits flush with the back of the alt case (completely voiding any warranty[emoji854]lol).
Just put it in tonight along with new interstate mtp-65hd 850cca/1000ca’s and boyyy do we got power now!! 13.8-14.4 volts at 650rpm idle with no accessories running, 13.2-13.4 volts at 650rpm idle with ALL my accessories on; halogen high beams, max blower, max stereo, 8 18w led pods, cb radio, wipers, bed light, winch, cab lights, roof running lights and orange strobe lights!! No belt squeal at all! So stoked!


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Black dawg

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I avoided doing the 3g forever, because I assumed the already problematic single alternator belt would have issues running the 3g.

I have had one on there for 5-6? years now (the same one), and belt squeal is basically a non issue. I have heard the belt make noise a couple times, but was with really run down batteries and trying to drive off right away.
 

stick_witch

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I avoided doing the 3g forever, because I assumed the already problematic single alternator belt would have issues running the 3g.

I have had one on there for 5-6? years now (the same one), and belt squeal is basically a non issue. I have heard the belt make noise a couple times, but was with really run down batteries and trying to drive off right away.
Yeah i was shocked! The original 1g squealed like a baby every time i started it up and ran it cold and anytime i really gave it. Tightened it up and everything and it never changed. But with the new one I have absolutely NO SQUEAL EVER. I have tried and tried to make this new 3g alt squeal, running ALL my accessories and just dumping the throttle and it refuses to squeal. Same v belt setup, same pulley. I guess it has something to do with it producing a more consistent charge, so the regulator doesn’t have to make erratic compensations to keep voltage up. New batteries probably helps too.


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stick_witch

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So heres the results of my 3g swap that i just did last night.
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14.2 volts at 650rpm warm idle! No squeal at all, ever... trust me I’ve tried. If you have a vbelt do not hesitate! Just do it! You’ll thank me later


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stick_witch

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Here’s the test sheet and model # of the alternator I used. Its for the 95 3.8l in the mustangs.
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I did have to clock the alternator one turn so that wires could go into the side rather than the top (personal preference). Also, I had to modify this case slightly. The fitment in the bracket was great, but for some odd reason the alt case bolts on the back are position differently in on this alt in relation to the ears and one of the bolts was coming into contact with the fuel filter column, which restricted the alt from swiveling to tighten the belt.

To resolve this, I just took a 1/2in drill and bored out the case, leaving a step for the bolt to sit in inside the case. This way the bolt head sits flush with the case rather than protrude from the case. I have never heard of this issue so maybe its just this specific alternator or my truck. Shown in the pictures above.

The alt also didn’t have threads in the ear so it needs a nut and bolt to lock down the adjustment, which honestly I prefer. It means you can lock down your adjustment setting from the nut in the back of the ear without having to twist the bolt and have it walk away on you and tear up the track, and you can get it tighter.

So maybe this isn’t the ideal alternator for this swap for some, but besides those 2 things it works/fits like a charm!


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IDIBRONCO

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The original 1g squealed like a baby every time i started it up and ran it cold and anytime i really gave it. Tightened it up and everything and it never changed.
I had this happen with an alternator on my 1975 F150 one time. The belts wasn't loose. That was just it's warning sign that it was on the way out. It squealed like that for about 3 months and then the truck wouldn't start one day when I came out from work. Oops. Should have changed it out a couple of days earlier.
 

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