Thanks Trackspeeder,
I appreciate the ideas for upgrades!
I also have to watch it though, I've got to learn moderation in this build, it is a trap! My quest for durability is by updating to the newest model of E4OD. I'm leaning toward a little bullet proofing here and there as long as it doesn't break the bank.
I know the importance of getting that end play right, and as you say, not too tight as new problems will arise.
Man, I'm still getting confused, and maybe you can set me straight, I see specifications for various Snap Ring thicknesses to get proper end play. "Is stack-up clearance the
same thing as end play?" Check out what I mean here:
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The
ATSG offers several Snap Rings (Retainer Rings) to get the clearance within spec. Is this not also Ford's specification?
This is kind of a moot point since I am committing to an aftermarket Snap Ring that is a pre-set thickness.
It seems the factory is aware of adjustment in 4 or 5 areas within the E4OD, I see this in a couple exploded views which
show multiple part numbers for the Snap Ring due to multiple thicknesses:
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I am getting ready to use various parts of the friction pack and/or
shims like the ones I already got, if I could understand the Snap Ring and Stack Clearance thing (where, why, how much,) then I think I can substitute adjusting the Stack with Steels and Shims instead of Snap Rings.
Anyways...
I got to drilling the Solenoid Pack:
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Carnage
Pretty happy with the result...
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UNTIL THIS HAPPENED!!!
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I was using compressed air to blow the chips out, and the protective cover fluttered/vibrated then broke off- DANG IT!
(why do I have the feeling that I have to replace the entire pack to get this part?) The little click tabs were bent back
pretty hard and also the little ledges broke off. The plastic seems almost brittle like it got hot maybe?
Gonna have to make a fix or replace I guess...
...in other news, I drilled the Separator Plate with the included twist drill, 0.081"
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The key for me here is to SLOW the heck down, mark things out, and double check before drilling, have a beer, check before drilling, then execute. Only 2 of the 3 "D" holes required drilling.
Calibration Plate
This plate is an addition under the Accumulator Body, just re-routes and better controls the red juice.
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Fun part is,
YOU get to pick the diameter of the holes you drill, so if you mess up, it's YOUR fault! From the manufacturer's standpoint this is the perfect scenario. Got to be careful here and choose wisely, like TrackSpeeder says, "It's easier to drill a hole bigger than smaller."
You can see I picked moderate increases, since my engine is a diesel, and the converter has a lowered stall RPM.
I mic'd the drill bits in my set to just be sure they were in the right spot from my Drill Index (thousandths of an inch diameter change makes a
very "feel-able" difference!)
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Good news after work today, some more of the Hard Parts arrived:
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(l to r) Reverse steel cage 6-pinion planet, Front steel cage 6-pinion planet, Overdrive steel 4-pinion planet, Center Support with Bearing, F5 Front Pump
I plan to get these checked for fitment in the coming days. I will send back what doesn't fit and seek alternatives. Diesel Drive Drum is still in transit.
Great news after work today, I got a super deal on some quality Frictions/Steels, from an E-Bay Vendor at a great price. These are definitely an upgrade and will allow for more friction area to go into the transmission!
"Alto Red Eagle frictions, Kolene Steels, and Quality Seals and Gaskets" (And I got a feeling the quality of these parts is MUCH better than what was in the present rebuild.)
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I may need to mess with the thicknesses of some of the steels in the pack, will figure that out soon.
So this installment is about done, now got to address the Solenoid cover and start work on updating the Front Pump. After that it's re-assembly time...
Best regards,
George