This is a triton V8, is it any different? I'll have to special order it from the store it is no in stock and can't return it either if I find out it wasn't the problem. I cleaned the one I have from all the soot and went to test drive it but it still does the same thing.
1997 e350 quit running
- Thread starter Exekiel69
- Start date
NJKen
is a daddy!
Does it run smooth? The two biggest problems I have had with the 5.4 (im assuming you dont have the v10) is one or more beat ignition coils and a partially stuck open EGR valve. If it does not run really smooth these may be 2 areas to check before you go broke throwing parts at it.
Ken
Ken
Well it does run almost the same way for the last 300k miles. The egr is next on the list but I'm really hoping Nick nailed it and with the iac fixes the problem and I can drive this van with out shifting to neutral every time I want to slow down so the engine does not quit running.
The part arrives on Monday so I will post back during the evening hopefully with good news.
Thank You.
MUDKICKR
Full Access Member
put it on a real scanner and ck it under "mode 6" all the sensors you are talking about wont make it do what your talking about. iac valve is a sore spot for ford, and it sounds like it is bad, and when they go bad they will not throw a code, and if it is not working right it can throw up lean codes, (p0171 and p0174), cause the iac is a controlled vacuum leak. p0171 and p0174 is in no way shape or form a code for a maf sensor and if the place that used the scanner told you that they are wrong. there is a different code for the maf sensor, also the old bosch iac valves could be tore down and cleaned, the newer ones cannot, they have a coating on them that can get messed up. also have someone get in the drs seat while you tap on the iac valve and have them put it in drive. most the time that will help it work, most of the time. also if you put it on a good scanner go under data and watch it when you put it in drive, or better yet, make a movie of it and watch it if it quits, that way you can see if it changes when you put it in drive. you can adjust the idle with a bolt on the side of the throttle body, it should be right where the cable hooks on there, another way of adjusting the idle is block the hole on the butterfly shaft, put a rivet in the hole to block it off.
Ok I'll try tapping the iac while in drive, the new one comes tomorrow I'll slap that one in as soon as I get My hands on it. Where can I get a Real scanner with out braking the bank?
I did have a vacuum leak right at the PCV boot but I put on a new one along with a new PCV valve, now it can hold 20+psi at idle no problem so if there is a leak it isn't while the engine is running.
Thank You.
Well guys I replaced the IAC today and nothing changed except now I have even more money into this thing, I put the scanner to it (I cleared the codes last week) and there are no codes at all even after 8 hs of driving it. Any more ideas?
Thank You.
Thank You.
UPDATE
Well I put the scanner again and there is no codes but the engine still died when on Drive but when it is in Neutral it will rev up and keep running. I found the intake had a loose clamp from the many times I had to remove it to test things so I tighten it and the engine would not quit in drive (barely) for that run and all the way back home but next morning back to the same it would quit in drive if I don't give it a little gas.
Any ideas with this new info? Thank You.
Well I put the scanner again and there is no codes but the engine still died when on Drive but when it is in Neutral it will rev up and keep running. I found the intake had a loose clamp from the many times I had to remove it to test things so I tighten it and the engine would not quit in drive (barely) for that run and all the way back home but next morning back to the same it would quit in drive if I don't give it a little gas.
Any ideas with this new info? Thank You.
Double-S-Diesel
parts seller
passible maf sesnsor.what are the hz reading on it, also grams per second at idle and 2500rpm
I replaced that one already and nothing changed, I got 50' of vacuum hose so I'll start replacing all the hoses I see and hope that helps bc I'm tired of driving it like this but it is My work vehicle and how I make My money so there isn't a choice for Me other than fix it.
Thank You.
Today I opened the intake on this thing and found two things, one the inside of the intake after the flip flop damper (throttle) was very dirty I sprayed it with some sensor cleaner and cloth and some goo was impregnated on the cloth I guess I will need some throttle cleaner, could this be the culprit?
Also I found a pin at the end of the throttle wire and turned resulting on the idle is now higher and now the engine won't die when I shift to Drive. I hope I can find the problem since the higher idle isn't a permanent fix so if anyone knows better or has a good idea that will help I'll appreciate it.
Also I found a pin at the end of the throttle wire and turned resulting on the idle is now higher and now the engine won't die when I shift to Drive. I hope I can find the problem since the higher idle isn't a permanent fix so if anyone knows better or has a good idea that will help I'll appreciate it.
