1987 F250 Electrical issues...(Image heavy)

[Cruiseomatic]

Like the title says. i have a connector that is/was *****. Can't figure out what its called/does/where I can get a replacement. Here are a few pics.
Top connector runs to back of truck, Bottom into main harness.

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Red circle is connector above but "fixed" for now. Yellow circle connectors go to nothing But wondering what they normally would. Truck has cruise control but no brake switch that I can find.

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Harness that bottom connector feeds into:

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Closeup of harness split:

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PO said it has no reverse, possibly no 1st. Think this is why? I think that is the NSS.

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Another pic of "red" connector:

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[icanfixall]

Wow.. I'm not sure where to start. In the second pic that is the E4OD teca relay. That MUST function for the E4OD trans and tach to work. As for the manual lever trans neutral switch wire harness. Please fix that.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Which "circle" is the relay? You don't know where to start...Imagine how I felt when I was able to REALLY DIG into this truck....And I think, From what I've read, The door placard says trans code K which means C6. My '89 F150 has the same code. I am currently, Working on all the wiring and ordering pigtails for what and when I can. I can get ALMOST every pigtail for this truck but the one in the worst shape...Go figure.

 

[icanfixall]

Sorry. Its the egg looking yellow circle on the left in the pic.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

That's just a male/female connector

 

[ifrythings]

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Top right one is the vss plug for cruise control, it connects to a harness that goes into the cab around the throttle cable area.

Starting at the bottom of the pic left to right:
Oval yellow circle plug is the RABS test connector. Next round circle should have 4 wires, yellow, red, black and brown, it's for the optional trailer tow harness.

Next is your frame harness plug that you rtvd, you can pull the pins out of that plug, break off the crimped part and solder the wire back into the barrel of the pin to fix it (sorry don't have a pic on me to show you what I mean). Those plugs are only used in 87 and maybe 88 then it changed to 4 round water proof plugs till 1992.

The last yellow circle, 2 pin connector will have a blue and blue with black wires and is for the 4x4 lights (4x4 4Low).

As for fixing that connector, your options are to find one in the wreckers (good luck) or find another plug to graph on or go and get the weather pack connectors from a parts store. What I did with mine is converted over to the 4 plug system with factory plugs and just soldered the wires into the pins but if I were to do it again, I'd get the single plug off the 92 and new trucks and do the same thing.

 

[ifrythings]

PO said it has no reverse, possibly no 1st. Think this is why? I think that is the NSS.

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That is the NSS, it will NOT cause you to have 1st or reverse issues, that's a mechanical issue or low fluid level.

To test the switch does it start only in park and neutral and no other gear setting?
When in reverse do you have reverse lights?
If yes to both of those then the switch is fine, if no reverse lights check fuses, lights and make sure your getting power to the lights before condemning the switch.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

No reverse lights but she "starts" in only park or neutral. How can I utilize the trailer tow harness? I have a brake controller that is a 4 wire. I know RTV or liquid tape, isn't a proper fix but it is preventing any shorts for now. if you have a pic or a way I can pull the pins out and either tape/heat shrink/etc... the wires, Thatd be great. That one post is so helpful. No one seemed to know what half of the connectors were.

 

[ifrythings]

I don't have a pic on me but I'll post one when I get home in a few days, basically you unplug the connector, look into the end and you'll see either a red or white plastic retainer that you remove and then you can see the individual clips for each wire that will allow you to remove each wire and fix them. On one side of the plug you should see a cut out that allows you to remove the retainer easier.

As for the trailer tow harness, you don't have the frame harness that has the rest of it but you can use the plug in the engine bay for power. Red is trailer brake power, yellow is power for running light (a relay switchs it) brown is for driving the relay for running lights and black is ground also for the relay drive. You'll have to run the other wires down the frame.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Is there a way I would/could connect or use it? Or how I could use a relay? Basically, I want to install a controller on this truck but use as little extra wire than necessary and use factory when I can. And where is the brake switch for the cruise at? I really need a schematic of this truck but spending $30 for a book when I only need the schematic to get all this straight and nothing else is a bit much...

 

[laserjock]

Is there a way I would/could connect or use it? Or how I could use a relay? Basically, I want to install a controller on this truck but use as little extra wire than necessary and use factory when I can. And where is the brake switch for the cruise at? I really need a schematic of this truck but spending $30 for a book when I only need the schematic to get all this straight and nothing else is a bit much...

Do a google image search. You would be surprised what you can find. Somethings you may not want to find based on the search keywords you use.

 

[madpogue]

$30 is a bargain for a reference that you'll use for the life of the truck.

I'm not familiar with the bricknose generation, but with most vehicles, it's the brake light switch on the pedal arm that interrupts the cruise control.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

After a YEAR, I was able to obtain replacement connectors WITH wire. Since I took a week off work, I'll be cutting the crap RTV'd connectors off and soldering the new connectors using heatshrink on each wire, then since they're not weatherproof wrap all connectors in electrical tape. How can I clean the contacts inside? They're pretty dirty. Found a truck that has most of its parts still. Anyone have any idea why the dash gauges act so stupid? For example, When cranking, the water temp acts like the oil pressure, voltage BARELY moves, engine turns slowly but tach shows 200, etc...

 

[riotwarrior]

Let me start by....

GET TO A CAR WASH AND CLEAN THAT ****** UP BUT GOOD....or steam it or what ever it takes because you have no idea what you have till its clean and eazy to see.

Next I will endeavore to browse my truck and see what I can do to help. My chassis harness connest like yours through the rectangular white plug....iirc.

I removed all NON STOCK wiring....including brake controller n switches ....only to find that suddenly truck started to function as it shouod.

My ride was a c6 so our harness will or should be similar.

Give me a bit to do some pics

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Thanks riot. So far, from what I can tell, My chassis harness looks ok other than the 2 connectors that I have to solder on. But I haven't really been able to make my way towards the back yet so who knows. Is this a parts truck you have? BTW, most of that junk has been cleaned off by now. It was REALLY bad before.