12v cummins swap experiences

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

thanks for the information!

unfortunately I can't run my A/C compressor like that because i have a serpentine setup. Other than having to re-charge the system, what's wrong with running the cummins A/C compressor? And I like the body lift idea. I may do that.

The Dodge A/C compressor is mounted on the bottom-right, right under the bottom radiator-hose connection/outlet.

To keep it there, you must cut a big notch in your cross-member and box-brace it = quite a chore.

Were it me, I would get a V-belt A/C clutch and swap it onto the serp-belt compressor, then do as myself and alienturtle did with serpentine-belt on the Cummins stuff and V-belt on the compressor.


Thus, you can easily remove the A/C V-belt should the clutch or compressor lock-up.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Oh yeah, look closely at alienturtle's compressor mount.

It is a whole lot stouter and more impressive-looking than the one I made.

I intend to make another one and also employ a YORK for onboard air, which I think he has already done.


As for the ZFs, several things I dislike about them; they don't hold up well to real work; integral bell-housings limit their usefulness; their shifters feel like mush; and all that noise.

 

[93_444idi]

well, i may try to do it without a body lift. I'm already quite a bit over the legal limit here. do you have any close-up pictures of you a/c compressor setup alienturtle? I can do some fabricating but I'll need my uncles help doing something like that. Don't have a whole lot of welding experience. I'd much rather do that than go cutting away at my crossmember though. And I like the idea of not having to recharge the system/move lines.

I still want to try my zf5. I've gotten used to the noise and when the time comes I'll try 2 gallons of non-detergent oil like mel suggested to me a while back.

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

well, i may try to do it without a body lift. I'm already quite a bit over the legal limit here. do you have any close-up pictures of you a/c compressor setup alienturtle? I can do some fabricating but I'll need my uncles help doing something like that. Don't have a whole lot of welding experience. I'd much rather do that than go cutting away at my crossmember though. And I like the idea of not having to recharge the system/move lines.

I still want to try my zf5. I've gotten used to the noise and when the time comes I'll try 2 gallons of non-detergent oil like mel suggested to me a while back.

I would love more pics too. I have thought about using a dodge with a nv4500/ divorced 205 because i have an ext with lots of room. BUt do like the idea of just bolting a motor to the current trans and tcase and keeping all my driveshafts intact

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

Also to give and idea on parts cost

I priced an IDI build with the following-

HX35- $300

Intercooler-$400

ARP head studs=$300

Type4cam- $250

DPS stage 1 sticks- $300

DPS Pump- $500

Water ****- $400- $600
________________________________
Grand total- $2500+

this would be a built IDI without doing internal mods....

 

[FordGuy100]

HX35 isnt all that optimal. Like I have stated before it was designed for a 5.9 liter engine that turned no more than 3000 rpms. IDI turn more rpm's and have larger displacement, therefore require more CFM's

 

[oldblue05]

Also to give and idea on parts cost

I priced an IDI build with the following-

HX35- $300

Intercooler-$400

ARP head studs=$300

Type4cam- $250

DPS stage 1 sticks- $300

DPS Pump- $500

Water ****- $400- $600
________________________________
Grand total- $2500+

this would be a built IDI without doing internal mods....

What kind of intercooler are you reffering to? most ppl on here get them for around 50 bucks used, mine is an air to water and was still 100 less,also an intercooler is something that can be re configured and still used if one changes motors.

And as for water ****... not if you build it http://oilburners.net/articles/splash.htm

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

HX35 isnt all that optimal. Like I have stated before it was designed for a 5.9 liter engine that turned no more than 3000 rpms. IDI turn more rpm's and have larger displacement, therefore require more CFM's

While that sounds accurate, I can imagine a turbo designed to push 20+psi is less optimal than a turbo that is less optimal at 10+ psi??

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

What kind of intercooler are you reffering to? most ppl on here get them for around 50 bucks used, mine is an air to water and was still 100 less,also an intercooler is something that can be re configured and still used if one changes motors.

And as for water ****... not if you build it http://oilburners.net/articles/splash.htm

that was figuring room for say a PSD 7.3 intercooler, plus all the clamps, boots, tubes etc there may be some padding in those #'s because we all know that when going custom things are not simply bolt in.

 

[wmoguy]

How about a link to these $300 arp studs please?

Also to give and idea on parts cost

I priced an IDI build with the following-

HX35- $300

Intercooler-$400

ARP head studs=$300

Type4cam- $250

DPS stage 1 sticks- $300

DPS Pump- $500

Water ****- $400- $600
________________________________
Grand total- $2500+

this would be a built IDI without doing internal mods....

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

HX35 isnt all that optimal. Like I have stated before it was designed for a 5.9 liter engine that turned no more than 3000 rpms. IDI turn more rpm's and have larger displacement, therefore require more CFM's

The more cylinder volume that is being forced through the exhaust, the faster the turbine spins, and the quicker/bigger the boost volume.

Compared to most of the commonly used IDI turbos, that HX35 would blow the heads off an IDI.

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

How about a link to these $300 arp studs please?

That could be a bad quote...i couldnt find a cost so started at that.....i could be way off, no idea

 

[93_444idi]

arp studs are ~500 for an idi from summit.

kinda drifting off topic though.

i had figured I'd spend about 2500 on my idi, even with my typ4 cam and spare 7.3 to work on already bought. Thats polishing exhaust preturbo, valve jobs, gasket sets, ect, ect. By spending ~1500 on a 12v, ~1500 on the stuff to put it in, and ~500 to get it in good running order (kdp removal, w/e else might come up) and then selling my turbo idi setup for ~1200 and selling my cam and spare idi I'd just barely be over the cost of building an idi.

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

arp studs are ~500 for an idi from summit.

kinda drifting off topic though.

i had figured I'd spend about 2500 on my idi, even with my typ4 cam and spare 7.3 to work on already bought. Thats polishing exhaust preturbo, valve jobs, gasket sets, ect, ect. By spending ~1500 on a 12v, ~1500 on the stuff to put it in, and ~500 to get it in good running order (kdp removal, w/e else might come up) and then selling my turbo idi setup for ~1200 and selling my cam and spare idi I'd just barely be over the cost of building an idi.

Thats kinda my thought

 

[FordGuy100]

Turbo---CFM----Racing HP-----Daily HP inducer
HX35----574------420----------330------ 56
HX40----763------560----------440------60
TP38-----767
T66------800-------560----------440-----66
GTP38R--897
B1/S300--900-------630----------495-----62
H2E------868------700----------550------63
HX50----1000-----700-----------550-----63,67
HX55----1050------735----------578-----67
HT3B----1085------770----------605-----76
GT42----1302-----------------------------75
T76-----1350------945----------743------76
HT60----1400------980----------770-----76
B2/S400-1500------1050---------825-----75
GT47---------------------------------------80
HX60-----1550------1085-------853----
TV81----1600-----------------------------85
T88------1750-------1225--------963-----88
HT4B-----1800------1260---------990-----88
Big Brother-1900---1330--------1045-----87
T91-------2000------1400--------1100-----91
HC5A/HX82-2450----1715--------1348----95
T100------2600-----1820--------1430-----100
T105-----2900------2030--------1595-----105

HX35's, found on 94-98 12v cummins. These motors are 5.9l in displacement, and turn a factory 3000rpm's. Stock 12 valve boost 18-20psi

TP38's, found on 94-97 OBS PSD's. Motors are 7.3l and spin 3800 rpm's. Stock boost 15-18psi

If your going to go through the trouble of retrofitting a different turbo, I would only recomend going with something that comes for a like motor. The TP38 flows a lot more than an HX35.

Not saying the HX isnt a good idea, but stock for stock, an OBS or superduty 7.3 PSD would work better as it was designed for an engine with almost the same (or the same) displacement, and the same rpm's.

You can spend $300 on an HX35, or $300 on a TP38. HX35 has much more options than a TP38 as far as aftermarket is concerned, but stock for stock the TP38 flows much more.