The only factor of oil viscosity so far I have seen is that the stock fuel pump can have a issue of moving it to the IP if its cold. Ive burnt 90wt and not noticed it and also i got several gallons of that motor honey and put it in when it was freezing out. poured in like mud ran like a dream in my isuzu npr and it has no mods at all except the fuel filter is a oil filter.
$1.40 per litre for Diesel....WMO.
- Thread starter BigRigTech
- Start date
The only factor of oil viscosity so far I have seen is that the stock fuel pump can have a issue of moving it to the IP if its cold. Ive burnt 90wt and not noticed it and also i got several gallons of that motor honey and put it in when it was freezing out. poured in like mud ran like a dream in my isuzu npr and it has no mods at all except the fuel filter is a oil filter.
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
Your IP is built to work at 5 micron, anything more and you will have problems eventually.....It's a fact. Filtration is longevity for an engine and when you work on big diesels like I do for a living you see the good and bad results from maintenance or lack of it. If you are pouring dirty WMO in your tank your going to have sediment build up and eventually it may plug your fuel pickup....You are never waisting you time when it comes to filtration or companies like CAT and Cummins (Fleetguard) wouldn't spend millions to make the best filters on the market. I read your blog, my $100 bench top filtration system is simple compared to all the stuff you are bolting on to your truck.
jimraelee
Full Access Member
BigRigTech, I'm glad you had good luck with your system. As you said WMO is filtered when its pumped into the engine oiling system. NOT when its draining back down the valleys and into the oil pan. there fore when you drain the oil out of the pan its not filtered anymore. I prefer to have the filter used before it goes into the tank.
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
Cleaner is always better in my book...You can't have your oil too clean - that's it's job to suspend dirt and lubricate.
lets think about this for just a second
I'm not going to throw out that i'm a diesel mechanic. Lets just stick with some basic facts on this IDI motor's. First off at 20 microns (oil filter) this isze particulate that is in the oil has no ill factor on the bearings the motor what so ever. There are a lot of mis nomers on WMO. one of the first is that when its black its dirty.
Not true its been over heated and or has unburnt fuel in it from passing pass the compression and oil rings. Since we know that the diesel fuel being put into the engine is clean and the engine oil is clean there are simply no contaments to enter the system at the burn time. Or i should say what causes your diesel oil to become black when your gas car stays clean.
now sludge is a factor kinda but really hard carbon is the issue built up in a nasty old non serviced engine. I agre this can factor in, but remember that i said filter the oil with a engine oil filter at collection. No reason here to get into settling of oil as every WVO guy knows how that is the best filter in the world if you have time. So a guy gets his oil changed at quiky world the oil dropped and it settles in a bin for a a few hors then is transferred to a storage tank by gravity. this is one hell of a settling set up i have found. the oil sets for weeks in most locations. the bottom of this tank must be nasty but thats from settling (filter it, dont suck off the bottom and treat it like VO). Your going to leave every thing bigger than 20 microns in the transfer pump filter. With that said that means the oil you are collecting into your storage tank is actually clean enough to go back into the car it came out of with no harmful effects.
In a IDI IP and all the otheres until you get to some large commercial euipment there are no internal screens or filters in the IP or the insjector it self. I would have to measure a injector orfice but I know just from looking down the barrel of one that some thing many times 20 microns will flow through it with now issues. The pump just sucks it it ion and crams it out on a huge volume with no small orfices at all so the pump is a non issue here. any one questioning this just needs to take one apart and see how un HI TECH the pumps are.
Now for wmo verses vo or diesel hands down your going to get more miles out of your engine, IP injectors etc from running wmo filtered to at least what we would run in the crank case 20 microns. Dont do this test but just think about it. change your oil put in clean VO and run it. i'm guessing it blow up in a few miles but we can be sure it will blow up VO is not a good lube and would make a poor motor oil. Lest try that same thing with diesel, we all know what happens iof your fuel pump fails and fills that crank case with diesel it takes the motor with it. HMMMMM now lets take that WMO and run it. My point is that wmo is lube and its designed to lubricate as you know becuase your truck motor will only work with it.
I'm just trying to save you guys some money and time, i dont post alot but when i do its only to help out. there is nothing wrong with filtering to 2 microns at all. but the only reason you do this is becuase the filters for fuel are 2 microns. which for a IP or injector is completly over kill by so many factors. saying that you need to filter to 5 or less is like exxon saying you cant drive on wmo it wont work. We all need a class in partical size 20 microns is so very small and 2 microns is incredible.
On the flip side to switching to oil filters for filtering oil is that you can use used filters and get them for free at the local oil chnage place which you should be able to get your oil for a bout .25 cents a gallon or free. and like i said before i have never had a filter issue yet becuase wmo is so much cleaner than wvo during the whole process.
I'm not going to throw out that i'm a diesel mechanic. Lets just stick with some basic facts on this IDI motor's. First off at 20 microns (oil filter) this isze particulate that is in the oil has no ill factor on the bearings the motor what so ever. There are a lot of mis nomers on WMO. one of the first is that when its black its dirty.
Not true its been over heated and or has unburnt fuel in it from passing pass the compression and oil rings. Since we know that the diesel fuel being put into the engine is clean and the engine oil is clean there are simply no contaments to enter the system at the burn time. Or i should say what causes your diesel oil to become black when your gas car stays clean.
now sludge is a factor kinda but really hard carbon is the issue built up in a nasty old non serviced engine. I agre this can factor in, but remember that i said filter the oil with a engine oil filter at collection. No reason here to get into settling of oil as every WVO guy knows how that is the best filter in the world if you have time. So a guy gets his oil changed at quiky world the oil dropped and it settles in a bin for a a few hors then is transferred to a storage tank by gravity. this is one hell of a settling set up i have found. the oil sets for weeks in most locations. the bottom of this tank must be nasty but thats from settling (filter it, dont suck off the bottom and treat it like VO). Your going to leave every thing bigger than 20 microns in the transfer pump filter. With that said that means the oil you are collecting into your storage tank is actually clean enough to go back into the car it came out of with no harmful effects.
In a IDI IP and all the otheres until you get to some large commercial euipment there are no internal screens or filters in the IP or the insjector it self. I would have to measure a injector orfice but I know just from looking down the barrel of one that some thing many times 20 microns will flow through it with now issues. The pump just sucks it it ion and crams it out on a huge volume with no small orfices at all so the pump is a non issue here. any one questioning this just needs to take one apart and see how un HI TECH the pumps are.
Now for wmo verses vo or diesel hands down your going to get more miles out of your engine, IP injectors etc from running wmo filtered to at least what we would run in the crank case 20 microns. Dont do this test but just think about it. change your oil put in clean VO and run it. i'm guessing it blow up in a few miles but we can be sure it will blow up VO is not a good lube and would make a poor motor oil. Lest try that same thing with diesel, we all know what happens iof your fuel pump fails and fills that crank case with diesel it takes the motor with it. HMMMMM now lets take that WMO and run it. My point is that wmo is lube and its designed to lubricate as you know becuase your truck motor will only work with it.
I'm just trying to save you guys some money and time, i dont post alot but when i do its only to help out. there is nothing wrong with filtering to 2 microns at all. but the only reason you do this is becuase the filters for fuel are 2 microns. which for a IP or injector is completly over kill by so many factors. saying that you need to filter to 5 or less is like exxon saying you cant drive on wmo it wont work. We all need a class in partical size 20 microns is so very small and 2 microns is incredible.
On the flip side to switching to oil filters for filtering oil is that you can use used filters and get them for free at the local oil chnage place which you should be able to get your oil for a bout .25 cents a gallon or free. and like i said before i have never had a filter issue yet becuase wmo is so much cleaner than wvo during the whole process.
pat_da_man
PatMan
how long does a injector pump typically last? i would imagine 20 micron wouldpass through however i think it would wear your ip faster then the standard 5 micron. my truck has an added 2 micron fuel filter and i beleive it has the original injector pump and it has close to 300 000km i always thought that was good but i'm not sure
it is recommended that the pump and injectors be changed out about every 100k miles. that said i have about 180k on mine with no isues running WMO on and off the past 30k. even if they wear faster it costs about 4-600 to rebuild a pump and i am now paying over 100 to fill up with straight diesel. the cost savings can be very significant. if it is clean enough to run the tight tolerances in an engine i don't have to much problem dumping it in my truck. there is always risk but so far it has worked great for me.
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
My comments are intended to be helpful as well as I see a lot of things everyday that were cause by lack of experience or poor maintenance. Clean clean clean - it cannot be said enough IMHO when it comes to fuel and lubricants. I just can't understand why you would use an oil filter when the 5 micron fuel filter would work a little better....Only a slight difference in cost.
Here's one comment I will make - it's not mean't to start anything - you seem to be spending a lot of time and money on your setup....What is the end result you are shooting for? If I was to run straight WMO in cold weather then I would require some of the upgrades that you are doing but I can still run the WMO as cheap as anyone here as I have a free supply with 300-500L hitting the drain pan daily.....My system cost me $100 and it's portable so I can do my filtering at work.
Here's one comment I will make - it's not mean't to start anything - you seem to be spending a lot of time and money on your setup....What is the end result you are shooting for? If I was to run straight WMO in cold weather then I would require some of the upgrades that you are doing but I can still run the WMO as cheap as anyone here as I have a free supply with 300-500L hitting the drain pan daily.....My system cost me $100 and it's portable so I can do my filtering at work.
cost is surley not a factor. thats why in my blog i said all you need is a good fuel pump which a stock one is not and a oil filter for the fuel filter. and to make it even cheaper and easier dont do all the extra filtering. the way i see it is its like a doctor sterlyzing his hands by washing them or by dipping them in boiling water. They both get the job done just its easier to wash them? or some thing like that. the conversion on my tow truck was oil filter for the fuel fileter and it was a free used filter from the oil change store. so taht conversion cost me noting and i have only been running straight oil in for a long time now maybe to years before that it was ablend while learned how the system was going to work.
My truck has some neat features that i really have not explained yet as i am still testing ideas and pumps. I can tell you i am nearly able to blend any and all types of fuels at almost any percentage rate and run the truck with it giving 100% power. i have year of free time into this. I also now have a gas engine that runs on diesel or waist oil but i'm still working on the 100% power end of it.
I will say that i believe if you are running the stock compression and i assume most are that on the dyno I am seeing 20% deisel and 80 other oils being the best ratio for power. you see it mostly in where the shift points are. at 60mph cruise empty run straight it can be a little boggy but its free. I nhave a new motor i'm building now that has modified compression (raised)not saying how much yet. but i'm after a cold start on wmo and a clean burn visually at the tail pipe. I'll keep every one posted most of my tinkering happens over the winters so i kindaa came out of my cave and thought i would put out a shout to every one playing with WMO.
As far as i'm concerned WVO is starting to get to be such a hassel around here that i hope the WVO guys never really catch on to this. As soon as the find out there is no processing they'll never go back.
I also i have so much stuff on the truck so i can process oil for home heating and my boat which burns a lot of oil. I'm looking for a trailer right now as well. I am looking to store 8k gallons of dewatered ready to go wmo for my off grid house which will give all the energy for vehicle gen sets etc for at 3 years before i turn on a solar unit at all. wmo is the only product i know of that can be had for free or close to it that has really long term use. i'm running oil right now i stored two years ago in a spare oil tank at a oil chnge store and it works perfectly. later i'll keep you all posted and pass out what i learn along the way.
My truck has some neat features that i really have not explained yet as i am still testing ideas and pumps. I can tell you i am nearly able to blend any and all types of fuels at almost any percentage rate and run the truck with it giving 100% power. i have year of free time into this. I also now have a gas engine that runs on diesel or waist oil but i'm still working on the 100% power end of it.
I will say that i believe if you are running the stock compression and i assume most are that on the dyno I am seeing 20% deisel and 80 other oils being the best ratio for power. you see it mostly in where the shift points are. at 60mph cruise empty run straight it can be a little boggy but its free. I nhave a new motor i'm building now that has modified compression (raised)not saying how much yet. but i'm after a cold start on wmo and a clean burn visually at the tail pipe. I'll keep every one posted most of my tinkering happens over the winters so i kindaa came out of my cave and thought i would put out a shout to every one playing with WMO.
As far as i'm concerned WVO is starting to get to be such a hassel around here that i hope the WVO guys never really catch on to this. As soon as the find out there is no processing they'll never go back.
I also i have so much stuff on the truck so i can process oil for home heating and my boat which burns a lot of oil. I'm looking for a trailer right now as well. I am looking to store 8k gallons of dewatered ready to go wmo for my off grid house which will give all the energy for vehicle gen sets etc for at 3 years before i turn on a solar unit at all. wmo is the only product i know of that can be had for free or close to it that has really long term use. i'm running oil right now i stored two years ago in a spare oil tank at a oil chnge store and it works perfectly. later i'll keep you all posted and pass out what i learn along the way.
unclewilson
Full Access Member
well im using a bluejean leg ! for my sock filter ...sewed and inverted . wraped around some heavy plastic screen. can put three filters in a five gallon jug. my five gallon jug rests over a 275 gallon cubie ..with a 2 inch hole on bottom.. and a spare drain in it from a hot tub .. to make it a funnel and a chevrolet hubcap to keep the bags off the bottom so it can drain better .. oh yeah jeans are levis ...and very slow but cheap !!!!!!!!!! proabally could go with thinner jeans for faster filtration well have some pics if you want to see them tks
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
Let us know how your tricks work out, we all like a good backyard invention with simple technology.
unclewilson
Full Access Member
first pic is the beginning of me building my processor and hilding tank! second is of plastic wire mesh.third is bluejeans around mesh.fourth is the redneck 2000 sox filter ,hahaha!!!!!!!!!fifth is funnel on home made funnel filter system!sixth is the hubcap to keep the filters off bottom sixth is the drain from a jacuzzi i had hanging around i applied good silicone to bottom last is filters in home made funnel!! these filters filter real good !! im going to a junk yard this week to get some remote filter housings off some diesel trucks for finer filtering !!! patent pending allrights reserved hahaahahahahah
Attachments
unclewilson
Full Access Member
hubcap dosent have to be chevrolet but if u use a ford itll go slower hahah
lazyscholar
Registered User
Thats a very interestiong "sock filter i have a similar setum it has a colinder sewn into the top with the bottom sewn up i am going to try a differant idea which i would invite you all to try if you wish. We have owned several above ground swimming pools and I'm going to try to hook up some pre filters to the electric pump and see what i get i'm thinking about going from a fram oil filter to a 10 micron to a 2 micron then to a .5 micron. Should be honey colored after all those filters
cool set up unclewilson, so what kind of mixes are you running. i like the cheby hub cap
i agree with bigrig though i feel much better with more filtering and dont consider it a waste to do so. even if my pump and injectors can push a bunch of 20 micron sized pieces i would rather not force it to continuously. i have never heard someone say man i wish i would filtered that less. i paid about $25-30 to add my second 1 mic filter and feel it is cheep insurance.
i agree with bigrig though i feel much better with more filtering and dont consider it a waste to do so. even if my pump and injectors can push a bunch of 20 micron sized pieces i would rather not force it to continuously. i have never heard someone say man i wish i would filtered that less. i paid about $25-30 to add my second 1 mic filter and feel it is cheep insurance.
