085 Replacement

[D_Fresh361]

i spoke to Russ a while back on rebuilding and modding my 085 turbo. Still wanting this done soon now that things are in motion but I'm also interested to know if there is replacement options with only downpipe modifications off of the turbine housing needing to be made. Would using the 085 housing with a better turbo be a waste of time or would it suffice?

Doug

 

[david85]

You mean, replacing the turbine and turbine housing?

 

[D_Fresh361]

Yes, sorry about that. Would changing just the compressor wheel and housing and nothing else bring any benefit?Or does those turbine wheel and housing need to be change also?

 

[david85]

Well...it depends.

I tried changing only the compressor side on my newer style 088 setup and the results were disappointing. However, yours may react differently because it isn't the same setup. Similar, but not identical. Others tried the same compressor side on the later 093 wastegated setup and were very happy with the results. The 093 has a smaller exhaust side, which helps spool at lower RPM.

The good news is, your older 085 is much easier to modify the exhaust side if you decide to later on. So if this doesn't work, you still have options to mix and match whatever combo of turbine or compressor side you feel like trying.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'd suggest asking Russ. He knows WAAAY more about turbos than I do!

 

[D_Fresh361]

I'd suggest asking Russ. He knows WAAAY more about turbos than I do!

When it's time I will just let him know I want as much out of the 085 setup as it can dish out. I'd really like to keep it but don't want it to limit the power down the road

 

[david85]

Your avatar fits well .

If you really wanted, you could completely replace the turbocharger. The 085 setup uses standard parts and couplings so you can still keep your up pipe and down pipe with minimal modification. You may also be able to mount the "moose boost" turbocharger, which has ceramic ball bearings and is known to push 20 PSI (if you have the fuel to feed it). Just don't try that on a 6.9 without studs.

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[pelky350]

With the way your turbo mounts to the up pipe you could probably install a bunch of different turbo set ups on it that bolt to the flange. Down pipe and intake would need some sort of mods but proably not too bad to do.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Your avatar fits well .

If you really wanted, you could completely replace the turbocharger. The 085 setup uses standard parts and couplings so you can still keep your up pipe and down pipe with minimal modification. You may also be able to mount the "moose boost" turbocharger, which has ceramic ball bearings and is known to push 20 PSI (if you have the fuel to feed it). Just don't try that on a 6.9 without studs.

You must be registered for see images attach

That avatar is the story of my life


Im sure I'll have enough fuel running the bull moose. Studs are on the way right meow and set up to be installed here soon.

Re seal, studs, rockers, ip/injectors and pyro is on the list first.

Next will be turbo upgrade, downpipe w/ 5 inch exhaust, intercooler/intake. Boost gauge

Then I'd like to look into water/**** cooling..



I know this is way off topic but right now my truck runs at about 2600 rpm at 65mph. C6

What gearing set up would help bring the rpms down some. Don't have plans of ever running a GV on this rig.

 

[D_Fresh361]

My dilemma is that I'm trying to avoid spending the cash on the full rebuild and mods to the existing if it's just going to be a disappointment and I end up upgrading to a whole new turbo anyway. But I guess we are all faced with that at some point lol

 

[Macrobb]

That avatar is the story of my life


Im sure I'll have enough fuel running the bull moose. Studs are on the way right meow and set up to be installed here soon.

Re seal, studs, rockers, ip/injectors and pyro is on the list first.

Next will be turbo upgrade, downpipe w/ 5 inch exhaust, intercooler/intake. Boost gauge

Then I'd like to look into water/**** cooling..



I know this is way off topic but right now my truck runs at about 2600 rpm at 65mph. C6

What gearing set up would help bring the rpms down some. Don't have plans of ever running a GV on this rig.

Put an E4OD or ZF in there? That gives you an extra gear 'on top' of your existing ones. That's probably an easier swap than trying to change axle gearing(especially if 4x4).
I'M currently working on a c6-zf swap in an 84; it went a lot easier than I thought.
The hardest bit is the crossmember - either it has to be moved back about 2", or modified such that the holes and such for the trans are 2" further back. That's the route we went, and we made it work.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Surely there is something that could be done to help other than swapping the entire transmission?? Manual trans is a no go on this one so it would have to be the E4OD. Truck won't be used for heavy hauling but not to say it will never have a load behind it at some point. I'm sure it has 4.10s right now.

 

[Thewespaul]

I’ve got a complete 3.55 rear here that would help significantly. Personally I would do a replacement turbo instead of doing upgrades to the current one. It’s still an almost 30 year old design even with upgraded parts, turbos have come a longgg way, even in the last ten years

 

[david85]

The vast majority of guys in your situation end up going with a 5 speed due to cost.

However, if you don't like manual, your only real option will be the E4OD. They can be picked up fairly cheap these days, but due to reliability concerns, I'd be a little selective in which one you go with. Try to find one with a known history that came as a rebuilt from a ford dealer.... then rebuild it with some upgrades. Anything between 1989-1994 will work, but later ones behind powerstrokes can also be made to work. 1995-1998 have more of the nice internal upgrades.

Both driveshafts will need to be replaced, due to the longer length of the E4OD. The stock oem style electronics can be made to work in an older vehicle, provided you stay within 1989-1991. The solenoid body inside the transmission can be made to work between the years 1989-1994.

Best electronic setup would be to go with the latest Baumann TCS, which is an aftermarket programmable controller. If you do that and purchase their harness, any E4OD between 1989-1998 can be made to easily work. Just make sure you keep your current transfer case, since that will drive your speedometer cable. If your truck is not equipped with cruise control, you will need to retrofit a speed sensor on the bottom end of the speedo cable for the controller to measure vehicle speed.

It will be a project all on it's own but I personally love the E4OD. It had a bad reputation when first introduced, but most of the reliability issues were due to poor execution, not a fundamentally flawed design. The basic internals are based on the C6, and the E4OD geartrain is often used as a backwards compatible upgrade to the C6. The overdrive gears are actually more massive than the main forward gears too, so you can tow in overdrive with an E4OD.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You should check for yourself, but I'm guessing that you are running 3.55 gear already. Turning 2600 at 65 is pretty good without an overdrive. From what I've seen, most of the stock ones with overdrive turn 2000-2200 rpms at 60, so I'm assuming those have the 4.10 gears.