david85
Full Access Member
Some of you may recall this thread from a little while back, where I had purchased a used factory Ford E-locker and did some investigating by taking it apart: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/ford-factory-e-locker-teardown-and-some-discussion.90536/
This weekend, I finally found the time and gumption to install it.
The install is pretty straight forward:
1. Remove old carrier
2. Swap ring gear to new carrier
3. Install new carrier
4. Wire switch ***
*** This part can be tricky.
For steps 1 to 3, it's no different than any other gear swap. In my case, even the shims worked out fine, giving me 0.008" back lash, which is right where Yukon recommends. So no real gear setup was needed in my case; it just worked on the first try.
For wiring, it depends on how you want to run the wire from inside the case, since older sterling axles have no provision for this. From what I've seen, there are generally three options:
1. Cut grooves into the diff cover flange and route the wires out through the gasket material. This is the least intrusive if you modify the pan, and not the diff housing.
2. Drill a hole next to the driver's side and run the wires through there using a strain relief or similar fitting.
3. Adapt the OEM style bulkhead connector to mimic the OEM style connection.
More to come...
Some have suggested putting a fitting on the cover, but I haven't figured out how to do this, so I opted for #3.
This weekend, I finally found the time and gumption to install it.
The install is pretty straight forward:
1. Remove old carrier
2. Swap ring gear to new carrier
3. Install new carrier
4. Wire switch ***
*** This part can be tricky.
For steps 1 to 3, it's no different than any other gear swap. In my case, even the shims worked out fine, giving me 0.008" back lash, which is right where Yukon recommends. So no real gear setup was needed in my case; it just worked on the first try.
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For wiring, it depends on how you want to run the wire from inside the case, since older sterling axles have no provision for this. From what I've seen, there are generally three options:
1. Cut grooves into the diff cover flange and route the wires out through the gasket material. This is the least intrusive if you modify the pan, and not the diff housing.
2. Drill a hole next to the driver's side and run the wires through there using a strain relief or similar fitting.
3. Adapt the OEM style bulkhead connector to mimic the OEM style connection.
More to come...
Some have suggested putting a fitting on the cover, but I haven't figured out how to do this, so I opted for #3.