I'm doing a 10.25 swap in my 86. It had a 10.25 originally but the pinion seal was leaking and instead of fixing I chose to get a newer version of the sterling with the longer splined pinion. I have the axle mounted (and didn't have to shorten the drive line) and when I took off the brakes at...
thanks everyone. I think I'm going to try the double nut trick when I get home. If that dosen't work then ill go down to the local hardware store and find some longer bolts.
I'm swapping a 1995 sterling 10.25 in place of a 1986 sterling 10.25. On the 86 axle there are two studs that some brake contraption mount on. the truck is an 86 so I want to try and keep everything the same. On the 95 axle where the two studs should be it's just two bolts like the rest of diff...
The relay on the fender apron(glow plug )clicks but the relay on the fender wall(starter) doesn't click. When I jump it from the battery to the small post nothing happens.
No my test light doesn't illuminate when the key gets turned over. My test light is one without a battery. I hook it to the positive side and touch the small stud on the solinoid and nothing. If it matters the starter solinoid was from my 1994 7 3 idi n/a.
We'll I went out to bleed the lines and the truck won't turn over, crank or anything. When I turn the key the glow plug cycles then when I go to crank nothing. All the dash lights light up when I go to start but no crank. If I arc the solinoid it cranks, does it mean the ignition cylinder is...
No I didn't start it, but I have power again
Another problem was clogged fuel lines. So I have to bleed the air in the morning. I wired in a new fuel tank selector valve and put new lines to both tanks and new pick up's in both tanks. I know it'll start after I get the air out of the lines...
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