Nothing happens when I turn the key???
- Thread starter rterril02
- Start date
Ok, so your glow plug harness is right for an 86, (I did some quick internet searches to see how the 6.9 controller works and is wired) but your starter harness isn't. You have the battery+ isolated on the wrong side of the solenoid.
Do you have a test light? Is there voltage on the large wire on the rear terminal?
If so, you need to swap it with the starter trigger wire only and make sure the starter trigger is on the rear terminal by itself, and has the large battery + wire on the terminal to the front with the other wires that power the rest of your truck.
Do you have a test light? Is there voltage on the large wire on the rear terminal?
If so, you need to swap it with the starter trigger wire only and make sure the starter trigger is on the rear terminal by itself, and has the large battery + wire on the terminal to the front with the other wires that power the rest of your truck.
No I didn't start it, but I have power again
Another problem was clogged fuel lines. So I have to bleed the air in the morning. I wired in a new fuel tank selector valve and put new lines to both tanks and new pick up's in both tanks. I know it'll start after I get the air out of the lines. When I say power I'm referring to electrical.
Another problem was clogged fuel lines. So I have to bleed the air in the morning. I wired in a new fuel tank selector valve and put new lines to both tanks and new pick up's in both tanks. I know it'll start after I get the air out of the lines. When I say power I'm referring to electrical.
We'll I went out to bleed the lines and the truck won't turn over, crank or anything. When I turn the key the glow plug cycles then when I go to crank nothing. All the dash lights light up when I go to start but no crank. If I arc the solinoid it cranks, does it mean the ignition cylinder is bad? I've read a few things about the actuator rod but I took the plastic sleeve off of the steering columnand the rod moves when I turn the key but the engine doesn't crank
Does your fender relay click when you turn the key to start or not? If you don't hear a traditional relay click that fender relay may have died during this.
You could always rule out something ignition related by leaving the key to on, but instead of jumping the two big posts with a screwdriver connecting battery positive to starter positive, jump battery positive to the smaller post with the little rubber connector (that comes from the ignition), if the truck turns over and starts something is up from the ignition. If it doesn't start like that, but jumping the big posts together (battery positive to starter positive) then your relay is dead.
Make sure your in neutral and all that good stuff while doing this, would never be fun to solve the problem and watch as the truck drives itself away.
You could always rule out something ignition related by leaving the key to on, but instead of jumping the two big posts with a screwdriver connecting battery positive to starter positive, jump battery positive to the smaller post with the little rubber connector (that comes from the ignition), if the truck turns over and starts something is up from the ignition. If it doesn't start like that, but jumping the big posts together (battery positive to starter positive) then your relay is dead.
Make sure your in neutral and all that good stuff while doing this, would never be fun to solve the problem and watch as the truck drives itself away.
does your test light,illuminate when you test the small ignition terminal on the relay,when you turn the key forward to start? if so,tap the relay lightly.should unstick it and fire right up.
No my test light doesn't illuminate when the key gets turned over. My test light is one without a battery. I hook it to the positive side and touch the small stud on the solinoid and nothing. If it matters the starter solinoid was from my 1994 7 3 idi n/a.
The relay on the fender apron(glow plug )clicks but the relay on the fender wall(starter) doesn't click. When I jump it from the battery to the small post nothing happens.
That relay is toast in my opinion then as long as we're talking about the same things and I believe we are. They're pretty cheap at least.
well if your getting nothing at the small ignition terminal,this means the NSS,ignition switch or a fuse/fuaseable link went bad.
let's see.i guess you could try jumping pins 5 and 8 on the range sensor (which is also the neutral safety switch) and then see if the test light lights up/or if it just starts.
or better yet i suppose,probe pin 5 to make sure you have power there first.if so,then jump the pins with a short jumper to bypass the NSS and give it a go.
edit; oh hey wait.did you already try holding up on the shift lever while cranking,and or try in N position to start it? if not,try that first.
let's see.i guess you could try jumping pins 5 and 8 on the range sensor (which is also the neutral safety switch) and then see if the test light lights up/or if it just starts.
or better yet i suppose,probe pin 5 to make sure you have power there first.if so,then jump the pins with a short jumper to bypass the NSS and give it a go.
edit; oh hey wait.did you already try holding up on the shift lever while cranking,and or try in N position to start it? if not,try that first.
Maybe their both bad then. If he jumps the small post it should still close the relay and turn over for him, no? Didn't see the no 12v to that wire going to that post part. But still
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