Update: you guys are the best...FordF250 you were right, I found the white and yellow wire was sitting on top of the front driveline wore bare. After splicing the wire all the issues went away. Thanks for everyone's help. I'm on the road and she's running great!
I have installed the correct pack and a new harness... Fits much better. Before I installed I checked ohms for solenoids and everything checked out in spec (20+ and 5+ for epc). Upon start up it runs much better. Shifts through all gears but I'm still getting a code 99 flashing and a hard...
I was able to get the plastic sleeve off that fordF250 mentioned and the plug fits into the solenoid pack.
After a test drive things seems to better, but not completely...
From a stop the truck acts like you are driving a manual and riding the clutch to take off in third. High RPM's to go...
Update: Thanks for the help everyone, turns out the solenoid pack was bad and I got into it this past weekend. The removal and installation went smooth until I went to plug the harness into the solenoid pack. It would not fit, closer inspection found a "ring" around the plug that would not...
Thanks for the help, so the recommendation is to adjust the tps to 1.2 and then purchase the wire harness to check the solenoid pack. Could you walk through using the new harness to troubleshoot the solenoid pack issue? I read the hyperlink but not sure how to use the harness in the test...
I received my scanner today and got codes 23 and 99. I replaced the tps with the gray one, 1.3 and 4v. Took out sensor on passenger side of tranny behind Heat guard and applied dielectric grease, also greased sensor on top of rear diff . Cleared codes but they both came back, any other...
OD light flashing - hard shifts
OD light started to flash, but no engine light was flashing. Found the TPS to be old style so I replaced it. Voltages are good, 1.3 and 4, but light still flashes. Removed battery cables to clear codes, did not work. Trucks shifts well except that it shifts...
Thanks for the help, sorry for the inexperience but it was the tip that was loose, the very bottom of the injector.
So when do you need to replace the copper washers? When the o-rings, caps, and lines don't fix the fuel leak?
And, yes I replaced all copper washers, and got the old ones...
yeah, I already tried that. I cracked each one loose and each one made the engine run worse, and the RPM's remained constant. As I was doing the return line replacement I did notice that one of the heads of an injector had come loose so I hand tightened it? All the injectors showed minimal...
The truck was running great, I noticed a fuel leak coming from the injectors. Replaced all the lines per SOP on this forum. Before I put steel lines back on I turned engine over and made sure fuel was coming out of each line. Put it back together and it feels like it is missing. You can feel...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.