Can somebody identify this knock?

Martin Connor

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I fired my truck up this morning to drive it around, and first of all it was really hard to start, second of all it rev'd really high when it did start, third there is alot of diesel smoke when idling as in way more than normal and its not that cold, has oil in it just checked it before starting it up, has antifreeze because i just changed it, please tell me this is some easy to fix and that this motor isnt cashed...i just drove it last week with zero issues...no knock or nothing ran amazing.

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Thewespaul

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try cracking injector lines one at a time and see if the knock goes away, if it does you found your injector. If not I would do a compression test.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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My guess as well.Bad injector.Almost confident enough not to call it a guess.:D
 

learner

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Hi Martin!
It looks like we're both late LATE LATE night types!!!
Looking at everyone's post dates I may be too late with this. It seems that the other posting members are all talking about knocking sounds, but I don't see any mention of this in YOUR post. please de-confuse me...

If you still have problems, read on, and if you don't please let me know here by posting another note. Want to sped things up? Reply here with a date and time to be here, and we'll set up a private chat to exchange phone #S +/OR Email addresses. I can TALK WAY faster than TYPE!LOL

First off-
It sounds like you ACTUALLY have a glow-plug controller problem. The hard starting and big clouds of white fuel-scented smoke would both be symptoms. I'm reasonably knowledgeable on this subject, and electrical problems of ANY kind are one of my favorite things to hunt..... for further info we should just use a PHONE call.

What year is your truck? pre-to-early '87 uses the "FAST-START" glow plug control system, mid-to later '87 and newer uses the "SOLID-STATE" glow plug controller. The glow plugs are quite different as well, so make sure which system you have. I'm going to TRY to send you diagrams of both systems straight out of the Navistar engine manual. ( I paid $185 for this book, but it was ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL to have because from early '87 to late '88 BOTH Ford and International made TONS of engine design changes and ONLY THIS PARTICULAR MANUAL covers all of them. It turned out to be THE BEST AUTO TECH MANUAL I've EVER PURCHASED, and I have bought MANY!)


Any way, in order to be as helpful as possible, please fill me in with the full story ( START with your truck's year and engine info. ( not mentioned in your post ) If please get the Vehicle Identification Number ( VIN ) on the printed tag inside the driver's side door jamb. For now
I'll call the engine serial # optional for OUR conversation, but it's so good for an owner to know for so many reasons you should get it and write it down somewhere for yourself.
You SHOULD find hiding right on top of the engine BLOCK ( NOT on the heads or manifolds etc... ). It's a hand-STAMPED #- NOT CAST.
You'll probably have to scrape off the grease to even find it, so to save you some sweat, here's a VERY precise description of where to scrape: CLOSE (1/2-3/4") BEHIND the timing
gear cover casting ( the injector pump is mounted on this ) on the DRIVER'S SIDE right between the injector pump itself and the cylinder head ( still on the driver's side ). there should be a sheet metal valley cover down there, so look or scrape ( or both ) right beside it right down to the engine block casting itself. The # itself SHOULD look something like this : 7.3 DA2 U 123456
good luck finding it. I took a few phone-based pics of mine, AND wrote it into my engine manual for future reference.

Sorry about getting so long-winded!

OOF!- I'm sounding kinda side-tracked, so back to the real meat of this post :
send me ALL the DETAILS, recalling WHAT YOU did WHEN and What happened as ( or just after ) you did it. and since I wasn't there, include sounds and smells as well, and WHEN in this process they appeared, they can be really good clues when combined with the rest of the info. Also add just how mechanically inclined you are, maybe we can chat on a higher level.... save us both some time.

Hope you give a call.
-Bob
 

no mufflers

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The title says KNOCK in it. He even posted a video.

A bad injector can make some weird noises.

Not sure of the confusion.
 

learner

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Tried to load the video- I get an AW SNAP message. I'll try again...
 

learner

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meanwhile, I came back in to deliver those diagrams. help yerself if ya want.. P.S. I TOTALLY agree
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learner

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Sorry I went off so far before. It's obvious that the engine's all warmed up in the video, and actually running fairly on all 8, making my glow plug lecture WAY off-subject. O.K. I went to you tube directly and VOILA- watched the video, and YEP, it's probably an injector, and my GUESS is that it's opening early ( at a lower pressure ) injecting too much fuel to burn completely , thus the super-smoke report. some video on the tail pipe mighta been a further help- is it PULSING at start-up, then getting worse and becoming a steady cloud? Mine did this.
ALSO- I'd pull the glow plugs and see if any are SOAKING wet. That way you'll find the ailing cylinder WITHOUT having to start it, OR warm it up and MAYBE even not having to do a compression test. I didn't have my own gauge for that, and the shop charged me $185 to do t for me.The mech said my engine was scrap. I had ONE dead one that made starting a real battery test. replaced it and things improved. A dead glower may also cause a cylinder to get saturated with vaporized fuel and literally "quench" the firing process, filling the entire length of the exhaust system with raw oil, making a veritable "smoke machine" out of a perfectly good engine. My truck did this to me.
Last of all, When you DO find the trouble cylinder, pull off the valve cover it's under to check for physical valve trail headaches. Here's why I'm so dang glad I did:
I found a "collapsed"- no, more like DESTROYED lifter (the roller was MISSING the roller perches rubbed to shiny nubs, and the top cap also missing!), two loose rocker arms, and one pushrod jamming the exhaust valve open for the wet-glowplugs' cyl. I was STUNNED to find the cam barely marked, so I replaced ALL the lifters & pushrods ( gaskets and all only came to around $400-a pittance compared to a whole engine ), the one glow plug, started it up, changed the oil 3 more times ( filthy oil probably caused the whole problem to begin with!). NOW it STARTS FAST and EASY, runs a LOT smoother, Mileage DOUBLED, Smoke nearly GONE, little puffs when cold. POWER- I can accept that NO non-turbo will climb the grades ( AVERAGE of 15%- 21.5% at one spot!) I do daily (ESPECIALLY w/3.55 gears) very quickly, but I'm really happy on flatter terrain.
So go ahead and pull at least that one valve cover. If everything is fine, your only cost is your time (about 3 hours out-and in) and a valve cover gasket set ( near $22 ) An injector for a true IDI is $80 at the Navistar dealer- ford here is a pirate! - for the newer trucks I've heard scary #'s in the $400 and up range. STILL cheap to fix in MY mind.
perhaps of interest: My truck is an '87 F250, 6.9l with 398,000 miles showing, and the mechs at the Navistar dealer said I could probably get to the 1/2 million mark before needing the big rebuild.
 

Hydro-idi

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I'll save you gobs of wasted time by reading above posts and tell you it's probably a bad injector.
You will likely find culprit by cracking open each injector line one at a time while engine is idling. Listen for any changes to the way engine sounds. When knocking goes away, you found your bad injector.
 

Martin Connor

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I tried to start my truck last night to start to diagnose the problems and ended up killin the batteries tryin to start it...so would 1 bad injector keep the truck from cranking? Glow plugs 100%, electric lift pump, new fuel filter, and high torque starter, could it be something in the injection pump...because that lift pump is slinging fuel but its not cranking, ill charge the batteries back up and ill do some digging into this problem
 

lude and rude

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so would 1 bad injector keep the truck from cranking? because that lift pump is slinging fuel but its not cranking

so the truck wont turnover (crank)? or cranks a bunch but wont fire off and start? these are two different terms.

and to answer your question about 1 bad injector. no it should be able to fire off if acouple cylinders are operating correctly but wont run nice. i had acouple bad glowplugs and it would start on about 6 cylinders and 10 seconds later fire off the other two but wasnt nice.
 

Martin Connor

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It will turn over but it will not fire up, the glow plugs are brand new ebay glow plugs zd9 equivalent and the relay isnt clickin like 3 or more plugs are out so i assume they are working. It wont even hit at all normally itll atleast sputter but this time nothing. I need to check the voltage going to injection pump to see if its getting voltage, and doing whatever it needs to do.
 

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