WMO what to do with it?

[franklin2]

I can get the local fuel co to drop off some wonderful furnace oil and mix it in for winter!

Make sure they don't red dye their furnace fuel. Not sure if they are doing that now or not, but they do a lot of the other cheaper fuels.

 

[Black dawg]

Filtering 15 gallons (electric pump) and pumping it into a truck (manual pump) takes me less time than driving to my closest gas station. I pick up small batches of oil on lunch breaks or bulk oil on my way home. I've collected enough 15 gal tanks from picking up oil to drain off my entire 100 gallon truck mounted tank.

Really not much of a time investment at all...

It does add up though. I was meaning time replacing parts that otherwise would be still going fine...till wmo was added.

 

[BDCarrillo]

It does add up though. I was meaning time replacing parts that otherwise would be still going fine...till wmo was added.

Ah gotcha... in about 400k miles you'd refresh the injection system 4 times, compared to 3 times for regular diesel using typical service life. So one extra day of labor over a 20+ year truck lifespan.

Picking up oil is interesting... the previous batch you picked up gets you to the next one. I don't bother picking up if it's under 15 gallons. If you spend an hour (somehow) to pick up 15 gallons, you've basically paid yourself back about $45. A bulk pickup of 100 gallons takes about 1.5-2 hours to pump, so about $150/hr "earned" or "saved" however you look at it. That's quite a bit better than my pay.

 

[Black dawg]

I guess everybodys results will vary, but from what I have seen and done, 50k on a pump and injectors on wmo (over 50%) is doing pretty good.

In my truck I burned 50%-90%. This was well settled, filtered 3 (30-10-2micron)times, With a 2 micron on the truck also. I am on my third injection pump and second set of injectors. Pump is doing great, but injectors are shot.

I burn very little wmo anymore, but I use the truck very little also. Last year I only put 8k on it.

 

[riotwarrior]

Make sure they don't red dye their furnace fuel. Not sure if they are doing that now or not, but they do a lot of the other cheaper fuels.

Thats what ATF is for...and 2 stroke oil mixed in with WMO/GO/TF it won't make any difference what colour they make it really. Just saying...

Never seen em dip a tank here either...and I live in Farmsville

 

[mjs2011]

Thats what ATF is for...and 2 stroke oil mixed in with WMO/GO/TF it won't make any difference what colour they make it really. Just saying...

Never seen em dip a tank here either...and I live in Farmsville

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the red dye is just a visual aid, the actual dip test reacts with a chemical in the dye, so even if you dilute it back to a dark color, the dip still reads that it's dyed fuel.

 

[idiabuse]

Cleaning wmo for service

I can process 50 gallons in 1 hour.
wmo 45 gallons atf, gear, diesel, watever
10 gallons stale fuel always free.

10 gpm pump sucking into a 10 micron then pushing
through a 40 micron cartridge style filter recirculating
a drum for an hour.

temperature swings can be tricky, adding fuel when she
wont pump cold will get you going, the oem fuel lines
and system will not be worth a darn with the stuff I pump
through it.
6lbs pressure.

 

[dunk]

Read this thread first before deciding.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...and-waste-motor-oil-cores&highlight=wmo,+pump

Is this really an issue if running small percentage of WMO occasionally? I burn the oil changes in all my vehicles in the IDI. When I have a quantity of oil I filter first through a 125 micron paint filter/funnel then through a 10 micron fuel filter. What comes out gets dumped into my 38 gallon tank when empty, only about 3 gallons at a time, then immediately fill with fresh diesel. This works out to about 8% WMO. Only do this periodically (not every tank) when I have WMO to get rid of. My purposes are not to run for free but jut get rid of WMO and save a couple bucks here and there. Should I not be doing this?

I recall reading an old Detroit Diesel manual that said up to 20% WMO was acceptable to burn so though nothing of under half that. Probably makes a big difference whether you do a real quick simple filter like me, a more fine multiple stage filter, or centrifuge.

 

[franklin2]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the red dye is just a visual aid, the actual dip test reacts with a chemical in the dye, so even if you dilute it back to a dark color, the dip still reads that it's dyed fuel.

I am not sure how that works. I think ATF would make a good fuel, but I have been always afraid of the red dye in it. Hydraulic oil would be another good one. Used motor oil is just too dirty for me, I don't want to rebuild my fuel system all the time.

 

[snicklas]

One thing to remember, the red dye is not just a color, it is also a specific chemical composition. Even if the fuel color has been changed, the chemical is still present. I know in off-road diesel, it is at a point that it takes a 20 times dilution to make it undetectable. Meaning, it would take 20 full tanks to dilute it enough to be undetectable. SO visual you may be ok, but it they send it to the lab, you're screwed......

 

[marmot]

I think a big part part of the problem with using WMO is the nature of of the particulate matter, especially engine wear components the iron, steel and bearing material. Much more abrasive than the "normal" particulate in say wvo biodiesel etc. Not for me but it's free so I guess thats good.

 

[BDCarrillo]

That's where it comes down to how well it's filtered.

 

[marmot]

That's where it comes down to how well it's filtered.

I guess below 5 microns and it should not matter too much but it is still going to be more abrasive than say wvo with 5micron bits of french fry. I can see why agnem is not taking wmo IP's

 

[franklin2]

Is this really an issue if running small percentage of WMO occasionally? I burn the oil changes in all my vehicles in the IDI. When I have a quantity of oil I filter first through a 125 micron paint filter/funnel then through a 10 micron fuel filter. What comes out gets dumped into my 38 gallon tank when empty, only about 3 gallons at a time, then immediately fill with fresh diesel. This works out to about 8% WMO. Only do this periodically (not every tank) when I have WMO to get rid of. My purposes are not to run for free but jut get rid of WMO and save a couple bucks here and there. Should I not be doing this?

I recall reading an old Detroit Diesel manual that said up to 20% WMO was acceptable to burn so though nothing of under half that. Probably makes a big difference whether you do a real quick simple filter like me, a more fine multiple stage filter, or centrifuge.

I put that link to the other thread so you could read it and make your own decision. I don't think anyone who runs WMO runs it unfiltered. They are all filtering it as good as they can, and the guy who rebuilds the pumps says it's tearing them up. Most of the guys who run WMO and who replied to this thread accept it as a given, they are going to wear their pumps out prematurely but that's part of it.

 

[sassyrel]

Ah gotcha... in about 400k miles you'd refresh the injection system 4 times, compared to 3 times for regular diesel using typical service life. So one extra day of labor over a 20+ year truck lifespan.

Picking up oil is interesting... the previous batch you picked up gets you to the next one. I don't bother picking up if it's under 15 gallons. If you spend an hour (somehow) to pick up 15 gallons, you've basically paid yourself back about $45. A bulk pickup of 100 gallons takes about 1.5-2 hours to pump, so about $150/hr "earned" or "saved" however you look at it. That's quite a bit better than my pay.

hmmmmmm.. go get,,a gas pump..like the farmers use.. commonly, these are Gasboys...throw all the outside sheet metal away!! and remove all non necessary items. these will pump oil like a bat!!! been using them for 15 years..............and yes,,there is a co in ill that still sells parts for them...youll see em reasonable on ebay every so often...the only drawback,,is if you pump long enough,,they will shut off,,from heat,,as they are a totally enclosed motor,,,gas fumes....just let it cool off,,and away you go again. doesnt hurt them...thermal overload........