ATS 093 Turbo and Water to Air IC
- Thread starter bajabomber87
- Start date
looking great so far! want to make another down pipe
, i threw the ATS pipe in mine "for now" and it has stayed there a while. might need to add that to the pre-rally list
just one thing is the support hoop welded solid to the frame then the body? if so i would suspect future issues with stress cracks since the body can flex seperatly from the frame some. heck just the frames have a decent amount of flex.
, i threw the ATS pipe in mine "for now" and it has stayed there a while. might need to add that to the pre-rally listjust one thing is the support hoop welded solid to the frame then the body? if so i would suspect future issues with stress cracks since the body can flex seperatly from the frame some. heck just the frames have a decent amount of flex.
bajabomber87
Full Access Member
looking great so far! want to make another down pipe
just one thing is the support hoop welded solid to the frame then the body? if so i would suspect future issues with stress cracks since the body can flex seperatly from the frame some. heck just the frames have a decent amount of flex.
Hell no I am never making another one, mine barely fits and was difficult to say the least. Didnt take long, but sure did give me a headache.
The intercooler hoop? yes its solid welded. If it ever cracks the fender, I'll just add a flange with some rubber behind it.
Alex S
Jeoff
Did you weld that mount between the body and frame without any rubber bushings? or mounts
bajabomber87
Full Access Member
I know these ford frames really suck but I doubt I'll be able to flex the entire thing out so bad that the front fenders will crack. But those fenders have so much give to them I'd be surprised if they actually cracked. I'm not worried.
bajabomber87
Full Access Member
Intercooler done
Batt trays
All the wiring
Just need to go get some crimps for the batt cables, bleed the brakes and I can start it up!
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Batt trays
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All the wiring
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Just need to go get some crimps for the batt cables, bleed the brakes and I can start it up!
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
very very nice
bajabomber87
Full Access Member
It sounds sooooo badass! I'll upload a vid for you guys later tonite. Too bad my "new" clutch wont engage at all
Feed Bunk
Cow hand
Excellent.
.
i was hoping you were able to make a run over CA17 and post the EGT results.
i am closely watching this.
i am closely watching this.
bajabomber87
Full Access Member
i was hoping you were able to make a run over CA17 and post the EGT results.
i am closely watching this.
Hmm that would be an interesting climb. Once I get it streetable I maybe able to take 17 to San Jose since I have to go up there a few times a month for work. Pacheco Pass is one I'd really like to see egt's on.
bajabomber87
Full Access Member
Ok instead of starting a new thread, does anyone have any idea why my "new" clutch that really only has 1500 miles tops on it, wont engage?
Throw out bearing getting caught up on the shaft? It engages just barely enough to roll and I can get it to back up in the driveway if I push the clutch in then dump it. Ive pulled the inspection cover off, there seems to be plenty of clutch material and Ive had a buddy watch the clutch engage while I'm inside pushing and releasing the pedal.
I'm stumped and at a total standstill with this truck.
Throw out bearing getting caught up on the shaft? It engages just barely enough to roll and I can get it to back up in the driveway if I push the clutch in then dump it. Ive pulled the inspection cover off, there seems to be plenty of clutch material and Ive had a buddy watch the clutch engage while I'm inside pushing and releasing the pedal.
I'm stumped and at a total standstill with this truck.
I max out at 800deg with mime on 5lbs boost going over CA17 either way. 65+ in 5th gear. I'm using up both lanes going up the hill.
I'm curious what your numbers compare to. My pyro is just south of the drivers side exhaust manifold and the boost is plumbed in post IC just right at the base of the IC pipe to intake manifold adapter on the adapter itself.
