drain or alternator

I got the alternator off of a 1992 Ford Taurus so I'm sure that it is an internal regulator?

I re-read your post where you say you have a Volt meter instead of the charge lamp. But that Green wire might be a Red wire from the ignition switch. From 88 to 89 they went from the volt meter to the charge Lamp. You'll have to wire the Alternator like the 3G pic shows. There should be NO wire going to the starter relay/solenoid on the pass side fender from the Alternator, except a large Red (Battery) wire from the Alternator or battery to one side of the large terminal, see pic. There has to be a wire from the ignition switch in the start position to the relay/selenoid small terminal on it's side, evidently you have that because you can start. The 1st pic will show it with a volt meter and the way it has to be wired, it's shows with a fuse, but you probably won't have one. The 2nd pic is the start relay/solenoid where the large Red wire has to be connected. Your relay might not be exactly like this, the smaller Red wire shown goes to the starter.

Thanks old bull it looks like everything is right but I do not have a ground running to the frame like the pic shows??

The Alt is grounded thru the mounting, but it's best to have a separate grounding wire. On an 88, you might want to check and clean the ground wire from the battery to the engine, that's the main ground, there are others all over the place, there should be a short small ground wire from battery to chassis, they get rusted/corroded. It should charge if you have it wired like the 1st pic above.

Thanks old bull it looks like everything is right but I do not have a ground running to the frame like the pic shows??

actually the only ground that I had to the batterywas what I thought to the voltage regulator. It was basically from the plate of the voltage regulator up to the passenger side fender well into a fusible link and then ran over to the passenger side negative terminal. I took this off because I thought it was only for the voltage regulator? actually now that I think about it it was screwed in To the passenger side starter solinoid screw that secures the solinoid

Have you checked for key on voltage to the regulator? the votage at that wire will be low

also I figured I would let you guys know that. I had a 1 G alternator from Advance Auto long story short took it back they gave me a new one and I could not get the truck to charge past 12.5 volts running or not. Not sure if there is something I am missing but it seems like it might be a ground wire or something is messed up. The only other thing I could possibly think of which everyone tells me it would not be I did have to switch out the instrument cluster because my fuel gauge was broke on my original?

Well I'm sure the wiring is right got another altornator and still not charging past 12.5 and the volts are not holding through the day

And should my power wire go to my solinoid where my large red cable goes or run it to the battery

It shouldn't matter which place you tie in. I think it's typically to the starter solenoid post that the factory tied it in. IF you are losing power through the day and you are not using power (i.e. gp's, starting, etc.) then I would start looking for a draw. If you are starting and using the truck through the day and it's getting progressivly weaker, you are not charging. Have you tried running a new cable from the charging post on the alternator to the solenoid? Typically there is a fusible link there I think. If it's bad, it wouldn't charge. As a quick check, you can carefully, hook a jumper cable to the battery hot post and the charging post of the alternator (don't let it touch anything) and see if the voltage changes. You really should be at like 14+ with it running and charging after a start. If the alternators are testing good, then it's got to be something in the wiring to them that is either telling it not to charge or not letting it charge. Alternators read the system voltage and adjust to charge accordingly so that you don't overcharge the batteries. It will only supply what is needed so if it can't tell anything is needed, it won't charge. The other thing you can do is by-pass the lt gr/red wire and tie it to the battery + to simulate the key on power. I really don't know what else it can be. If the alt is good, its key on voltage in, power out. If all the wires are connected correctly and tested to be good, then I'm completely at a loss.

Thanks laser the cable I have the goes from alt to solenoid is off of a Crown Victoria that I read can be used. I'm at a loss as well with being busy with work I might have someone look at it for me. I have noticed the heater stays on even when it's in the off position just find it weird that I was stuck at 12.5 also with the 1 g alt

do you have key on voltage to the regulator? with engine off, do you have voltage at big post on alt?

How do I check that sorry new to all this electric all I have is a multi meter

Voltmeter is ok. Unplug the regulator at the alt. One outside terminal should have battery voltage all the time, and the other outside terminal should have KEY ON voltage. The key on wire voltage will be lower than battery voltage, because it runs through the battery light on the dash.

Also check for battery voltage (key off engine off), At the big post of the alt.