Oil cooler removal?

leftcoastjeff

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WooHoo

After having some difficulty removing the old oilcooler, I assumed the cooler that I got would be the same PITA, I was incorrect, more later.

I devised a tool, in my sleep
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This is how it works
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"T" nuts and acorn nuts, with bolts, under $20.00 at Ace (3/8")
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A notch for the alignment thing
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And presto, Jeff's contribution, now to see if I can make it fit IN the truck! cookoo for the removal process.

Got it apart TOO easy, turned out there are newish looking O-rings inside,a small bend in the o-ring retaining ring (easily fixed with a little pressure) from the last time it was installed and a few scratches on the block mating surfaces (NO BIGGIE)

Again a BIG thank you to Towcat!!!


Well, back to cleaning and on with assembly,
LCjeff
 

towcat

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any decent heavy equipment repair jobs out that way?????
everybody out in kali is in flux right now. noone knows what is going to happen with the 2010 smog rules in the near horizon. The only thing people can expect is that it can't be good. one thing for sure, the old iron are dinosaurs and if you don't know computer diagnostics and repair, you won't be working.
 

mech140

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10=4 on that ,thats the only way you can find a job around here.I've worked with the cat SIS systems and the terex PTU tool box Formates.... sure makes it easier to trouble shoot......man it must be awesome to live in cali.....all the gear heads and gassers....dont have that back here......Bob
 

leftcoastjeff

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Getting it together

Everything clean and ready.

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Installed the o-rings on the log
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This worked for me.
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checking, checking
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And prepping the front header, ultra black on the header and both sides of the gasket.
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Prepping the rear header the same as the front.
Installed front header, wrestled with the rear header and log.
This is a major PITA, leverage, leg pressure and a friend to help line up the front (you cannot see the front header from under the truck)
I've got to figure out an easier way to do that!!!!

Today, re-install PS and AC pumps, refill fluids and hope for the best!

Hope this helps someone else,

LCjeff

Sorry no pics of the final wrestling match under the truck! :rotflmao
 
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typ4

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DO NOT silicone those gaskets ,they will split and leak. At the worst possible time. Those are made to be installed with nothing, very little contact glue if anything
 

leftcoastjeff

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your joking, right?

.....man it must be awesome to live in cali.....all the gear heads and gassers....dont have that back here......Bob

You might be right, let's see, $1200.00 studio apartment, $1.25 per hour to park, 10+% unemployment (as if they count right), Arnold as Governor, pot is our largest cash crop, our roads are crappy and full of inconsiderate drivers,

Shall I continue? :rotflmao

LCjeff
 

leftcoastjeff

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DO NOT silicone those gaskets ,they will split and leak. At the worst possible time. Those are made to be installed with nothing, very little contact glue if anything

Doh, it's done, though I did use the silicon sparingly.
the mating surphaces had some deep scratches on the headers.
I'd love to do it again. ;Sweet

This is the way I've always done water pumps in the past with good results :dunno

Did I screw up bad?

Crap!

LCjeff
 

Agnem

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I'd say let it ride at this point. So, did you put the cooler together entirely, and then put it on the engine, or did you mount the front header, and then go from there? If you do a search, you will find others have assembled and presure tested also, using home made jigs.
 

leftcoastjeff

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thank you Mel

Thanks for the quick response

" I'd say let it ride at this point."

I installed the front header, then fed the rear header and the log in form the back. pressing them together took all I had, but it went in straight and smooth.

Any idea why the gaskets split when using silicon?

LCjeff
 

icanfixall

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I'm guessing why they split because of silicon is because they are so darn thin between passages. I used permatex copper plus on both sides of mine every time I repaired them... Rememeber the overheat and burn down....-cuss Those o-rings had 5200 miles on them and were fine but... Seeing that much heat its no telling when they would be junk and let me down... So I replaced them. I fabricated the pressure testing plates so I could test to 35 lbs. Any more pressure is just not needed. The testing must be done with the pipe clamp holding the ends to the bundle. My shop manual shows a plate that runs from the front to the back header and all you need to do is bolt the headers to that and pressurize.
 

leftcoastjeff

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Why then is there a groove between the ports on both headers.
The gasket has no sealant in those areas. :dunno
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LCjeff
 

leftcoastjeff

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Done, almost

Got it all back together, not too bad, messy but not bad

Looks like the water pump may be next.:dunno

anybody need more details, just ask, I remember it like it were....today

Thanks for all the help, gotta run to the store for the distilled water.

Fluids to come. :sly

LCjeff
 

leftcoastjeff

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all done

Fluids in, run, check, drive, check, check, check.

Had to clean the battery terminals after 2 days of sitting, I'm too close to the salt water. cookoo

Questions?

LCjeff

Again thank you to all! :hail
 

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