White smoke under acceleration/higher RPM's

Well, went and got insurance for the truck today! Put some fresh diesel in it and took it around the block a few times. Seems good, I got more noise then I thought from the trans and the solid flywheel/solid clutch, but I can live with that for now....

It seems I have a fair amount of white (with a slight blue tint) smoke under moderate to heavy acceleration, and at higher RPM's Could that be injectors or the pump? The guy who had it before, said that something was not quite right with the pump that is on it, something about he could not get it timed right, and it smoked.... Just wanted to make sure that sounded right before I got it in the shop for the new pump.

white smoke is raw diesel. I'd lay odds you have pump issues.

Gah, OK, now the questions....
There is 3 different pumps... 130hp, 155hp, and 170hp
Anyone know what the stock 7.3L's should have? Would getting the 170hp one be the best way to go? or could to much from the pump be a problem?

Part II to this. Injectors, what code do I want for them. I have to check and see what I have on there righ now, but is there one code that is better then the others? Can you mix+match the codes or is that a big no-no?

So much to learn, so little time to do it in!

Get the bigger pump... but really there is not that much difference in the pumps it's just the setting for the fuel flow....

now injecters - the different letters mean different opening pressures until you get to the G code which flows just a tad more. I have talked to different shops and gotten different answers to that question but the one most often given is all injectors are the same pretty much except the G's which again flow a tad bit more fuel and were meant for the turbo'd trucks.

So just make sure all are the same letter code if buying new and if rebuilt injectors then just have them all tested before install so that they are all pretty much in the same opening pressure settings. Reason for this is as they rebuild them they can choose the opening pressure by different springs and shim combo's. Most will tell you just get new injectors because the price difference is small.

An injector that pops off early (lower pressure) will actually advance the timing just a smidgen for that cylinder so a more balanced system will be better overall.

Clear as Mud - I hope so...

If it is a ford all 7.3l are rated at 185 hp for a non turbo motor. Int trucks are 130, 155, and 170.

Travis, when did you change your mind about the G code injectors? Remember this post from a TDS member named Duallie, information pasted from a mail note he recieved from Stanadyne....

There are three different injector part numbers that we currently have available for the 6.9L & 7.3L engine application (1984 - 1993). The difference between the three (codes: C or D, E & G) are their nozzle opening set pressure and valve lift (controls fuel volume). The G coded injector is recommended for the turbo only because it delivers the correct amount of fuel output at any given speed and load of the engine. The other injectors are set to flow and deliver higher fuel quantities and if installed on a turbo application, engine damage may occur.

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And your response...

argve
Member


Member # 12213

Reged: 03/21/01
Posts: 8597

Re: Injectors the scoop from Stanadyne
#1671990 - 02/25/04 11:45 PM


So by what they are saying is that my non turbo injectors flow more fuel... I need all the fuel I can get

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After speaking in great depth with Ken about injectors and flow rates. You missed that conversation as you were off running around a race track in July while we were picking Ken's brain about all kinds of neat stuff... Seems that the G coded ones actually flow more fuel out the box then insert Ken and bingo they flow even more fuel (he opens them up a bit I think was his comment).

Well, I pulled all my injectors today in prep. for bringing them all in for testing tomorrow, and I have some that are "GG" and some that look likey they say "CD" on them (it's definatly not GG) So ya, who knows. I will see what they say, might end up coughing up the $32/per and getting new ones.
I had to order 2 new hard lines from the injection pump to the injector, for cyl 5 and 7. PO seemed to have snugged up the nut on the injector just a little much and split it

Does anyone have any good info on timing it up once I got the pump in? The guy who is going to give me a hand with it is going try and bring the timing setup that he has at work for doing the 7.3 diesels (he has not used it yet, just seen someone use it), so any info that anyone has could help us

Once I get things going well, and the pyro installed, then I will turn it up

Put the pump on, line up the lines and bolt it all up then start her up and bearly adv the pump till it starts to cackle and back it off till it stops and you are at max adv and should run like a rapped date.

Well yes and no. Timing by ear is OK, and about the best that can be done without a meter, but even a skilled "ear timer" can be off by a degree or two, and the last couple of degrees can make a big difference in fuel economy and power. If your friend has a 7.3 timing rig, that means he is going to use the pulse method, which is what I prefer, and works fine on a 6.9 the same as it does a 7.3. 8.5 degrees BTDC with a 20 degree offset at 2000 RPM. Now, the kicker may be his timing clamp. If he has the one that only fits the 7.3, then he will not have a universal clamp, and may not be able to clamp your #1 injector line. You can solve this problem by installing the #1 line and line adapter from a 7.3 on your 6.9. If he has a regular clamp, you'll be in good shape.

Well, the shopping trip today set me back about $1500 CDN..... New pump, new injectors all around, 2 new high-preasure lines for cyl 5 and 7, new return T's, new return line clamps, new return lines.
I brought in my 8 injectors that I pulled out of the truck, and the 4 spare ones I got with the truck. They tested them, and only 2 passed (and just) so I am keeping them as spares. All others were written up as "NOP at minimun, nozzles worn, poor atomization"

So ya, might as well do her right the first time and get it done is what I figure... pay now, or pay twice as much later. At least that is what I am trying to tell the wife

The thing better run like a bat outa hell when we are done tomorrow, that is all I got to say!

wwwabbit said:

Well, the shopping trip today set me back about $1500 CDN..... New pump, new injectors all around, 2 new high-preasure lines for cyl 5 and 7, new return T's, new return line clamps, new return lines.
I brought in my 8 injectors that I pulled out of the truck, and the 4 spare ones I got with the truck. They tested them, and only 2 passed (and just) so I am keeping them as spares. All others were written up as "NOP at minimun, nozzles worn, poor atomization"

So ya, might as well do her right the first time and get it done is what I figure... pay now, or pay twice as much later. At least that is what I am trying to tell the wife

The thing better run like a bat outa hell when we are done tomorrow, that is all I got to say!

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Rabbit! Where did you end up buying your stuff?

Fred Hemer said:

Rabbit! Where did you end up buying your stuff?

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Wilson and Proctor. First glance in the shop/talking to the counter staff, seemed a little tight about info, and didn't really want to talk much detail. After placing my order, and showing that I was there to do business and not BS, they really opened up. They took the time to make sure I had everything, and knew what I needed to get done. 100% highly recomended. I hope to be back there early next week for a timing job.

Well... I found out lots of info about my truck today... some that I didn't want to know. Anyway, I have the 6.9L motor, *NOT* the 7.3.... So stuff is a little off. Timing and everything was set right, and it goes good, pulls strong... I want to see it with a good load in it soon. The "fun" is that the injectors and pump are for the 7.3 Now the injectors don't matter much, but the pump does a little bit. The pump at WOT or close to it, puts out to much fuel, so it's running a little rich. I guess that just makes it good for putting in a turbo eh?

Not much difference between the 6.9 and 7.3 performance level wise - doubt you would ever know when you get behind the wheel of one - well to tell the truth I've driven both and you can't tell engine/power wise.

Nice thing about the 6.9 is it just doesn't fail for cavitation like the 7.3's do - yes you still need to protect against it but it's nothing like a 7.3

Yes the head bolts are smaller diameter but if your not throwing the stones to her they should hold up under most conditions (even turbo in my opinion). Now if you were going to go water/propane and tons of boost - then yep I would be looking at upgrading them but for the normal everyday off the shelf mods (pre-packaged turbo) and bumped up pump - no worries.