93turbo_animal
Registered User
Any tricks or things to watch out for when you change one? Thanks
IPR replacement
- Thread starter 93turbo_animal
- Start date
Russ
Idont do injectors
Aric I copied this from Steve Baz's site Baz's site
Injection Pressure Regulator Valve Removal
To remove the IPR you can remove the fuel filter housing or at least loosen it to allow room for the wrench and to maneuver the valve in and out. The 98.5/99 IPR is accessed easily from behind the fuel filter. Remove the air intake Y pipe and plug openings. Remove the fuel return hoses from the pressure regulator block, remove the filter housing bolts and lean the housing back. Unplug the EOT sensor and IPR valve. Use a 3/4" wrench to remove the solenoid nut, spacer and solenoid coil. Using an 1 1/8" wrench (or a very deep socket--the filter housing will have to be removed for this) remove the IPR valve. Make sure that the replacement IPR is the same level part as the old one. Engines built up to serial number 187099 in early 95 use P/N F4TZ-9C968-C; engine number 187100 and up use F5TZ-9C968-A. Do not use sealer on the IPR threads, it could plug the orifice in the threaded area. Torque the IPR to 35 ft/lbs and the solenoid retaining nut to 53 in/lbs. You'll have to drive the truck to purge any air from the HP oil system and clear any codes set during the replacement.
Injection Pressure Regulator Removal and Replacement
by Coach Davis
I've been having a slight problem with my truck not wanting to idle very smooth especially when hot and the more miles the oil gets on it, the worse it would idle. With the engine cold it would idle pretty smooth, but hot, it had somewhat of a shake to it. When I purchased this truck, the oil had been in a little too long on this ONE and only ONE oil change and because the HEUI system is so sensitive to clean oil that I probably was going to have to change some of the components to remedy the idle/flutter problem.
I purchased a new IPR a few months ago and was trying to get enough miles on the oil before I changed it so I could ensure some of the characteristics that changed were not because of "NEW" oil. New oil will always make a Powerstroke run a little better than oil that has 3000 miles on it. I wanted to make sure I installed the IPR with the 3000 mile oil.
The Procedure:
I removed the plug on the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and took my tried and true turkey baister (equipped with a rubber fuel line and then steel brake line attached to the rubber fuel line so I could get through the small hole and go to the bottom of the reservoir to extract ALL the oil), and proceeded to extract all the oil out of the reservoir which took some time, but ended up getting a full quart out of it. Draining this HP reservoir really saved a big time mess!!
Next I drained my fuel filter bowl and loosened the lid to ensure all the diesel would be able to drain, then removed my intake "Y", stuffed shop rags in the ports and proceeded to loosen all the hoses and wiring harness associated with the fuel filter housing/IPR. I then removed the two bolts holding the fuel filter housing on the engine and lifted the housing up and out of the valley of the engine.
I then removed the cheap nut holding the IPR solenoid on and slid the solenoid off. I then took a deep socket and slowly removed the IPR.
I then cleaned around where the IPR was with a lint free cloth to ensure the new o-ring wouldn't be damaged by dirt/trash upon seating. I then coated the NEW IPR o-rings etc. with new engine oil and replaced it back into its respected provision. I then reinstalled the IPR solenoid and tightened the cheap nut ensuring I had the wiring harness connector turned in the correct direction.
I then took carburetor cleaner and sprayed the valley where a little diesel and a small amount of oil had spilled. I cleaned the entire valley and then reinstalled everything previously removed.
I then took a small funnel and poured exactly 1 quart of new oil back into the HP oil reservoir and re-installed the plug.
After the engine turned over a few more times than usual it cranked. After warming the engine up, I then proceeded to the highway where I ran locked out of OD for about 5 miles at 3200 rpm's to eliminate all the air from the HP oil system.
After returning home I immediately noticed the idle was more stable and after putting 100 or so miles on since the change, I can definitely tell a difference in the performance and idle characteristics of the engine. I used to have what I call a missing cylinder flutter sound and that has for the most part been eliminated so far. The truck also runs somewhat easier going down the highway and the cranking time which was actually normal before, is very quick now, even on initial startup in the morning. I was surprised by this because the truck actually cranked normally with no long cranking time hot or cold. I'm also interested to see if fuel mileage will fluctuate some and I'll post when and if it does indeed increase.
I wanted to post this information for some of you that are experiencing some of the characteristics my truck has been having. I'm also going to replace the ICP when I find a good price on one, but I do my truck as I do my race car and change ONE thing at a time so I'll know what the part actually did and IF it actually changed anything. Then I can go to the next step and change something else.
Injection Pressure Regulator Valve Removal
To remove the IPR you can remove the fuel filter housing or at least loosen it to allow room for the wrench and to maneuver the valve in and out. The 98.5/99 IPR is accessed easily from behind the fuel filter. Remove the air intake Y pipe and plug openings. Remove the fuel return hoses from the pressure regulator block, remove the filter housing bolts and lean the housing back. Unplug the EOT sensor and IPR valve. Use a 3/4" wrench to remove the solenoid nut, spacer and solenoid coil. Using an 1 1/8" wrench (or a very deep socket--the filter housing will have to be removed for this) remove the IPR valve. Make sure that the replacement IPR is the same level part as the old one. Engines built up to serial number 187099 in early 95 use P/N F4TZ-9C968-C; engine number 187100 and up use F5TZ-9C968-A. Do not use sealer on the IPR threads, it could plug the orifice in the threaded area. Torque the IPR to 35 ft/lbs and the solenoid retaining nut to 53 in/lbs. You'll have to drive the truck to purge any air from the HP oil system and clear any codes set during the replacement.
Injection Pressure Regulator Removal and Replacement
by Coach Davis
I've been having a slight problem with my truck not wanting to idle very smooth especially when hot and the more miles the oil gets on it, the worse it would idle. With the engine cold it would idle pretty smooth, but hot, it had somewhat of a shake to it. When I purchased this truck, the oil had been in a little too long on this ONE and only ONE oil change and because the HEUI system is so sensitive to clean oil that I probably was going to have to change some of the components to remedy the idle/flutter problem.
I purchased a new IPR a few months ago and was trying to get enough miles on the oil before I changed it so I could ensure some of the characteristics that changed were not because of "NEW" oil. New oil will always make a Powerstroke run a little better than oil that has 3000 miles on it. I wanted to make sure I installed the IPR with the 3000 mile oil.
The Procedure:
I removed the plug on the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and took my tried and true turkey baister (equipped with a rubber fuel line and then steel brake line attached to the rubber fuel line so I could get through the small hole and go to the bottom of the reservoir to extract ALL the oil), and proceeded to extract all the oil out of the reservoir which took some time, but ended up getting a full quart out of it. Draining this HP reservoir really saved a big time mess!!
Next I drained my fuel filter bowl and loosened the lid to ensure all the diesel would be able to drain, then removed my intake "Y", stuffed shop rags in the ports and proceeded to loosen all the hoses and wiring harness associated with the fuel filter housing/IPR. I then removed the two bolts holding the fuel filter housing on the engine and lifted the housing up and out of the valley of the engine.
I then removed the cheap nut holding the IPR solenoid on and slid the solenoid off. I then took a deep socket and slowly removed the IPR.
I then cleaned around where the IPR was with a lint free cloth to ensure the new o-ring wouldn't be damaged by dirt/trash upon seating. I then coated the NEW IPR o-rings etc. with new engine oil and replaced it back into its respected provision. I then reinstalled the IPR solenoid and tightened the cheap nut ensuring I had the wiring harness connector turned in the correct direction.
I then took carburetor cleaner and sprayed the valley where a little diesel and a small amount of oil had spilled. I cleaned the entire valley and then reinstalled everything previously removed.
I then took a small funnel and poured exactly 1 quart of new oil back into the HP oil reservoir and re-installed the plug.
After the engine turned over a few more times than usual it cranked. After warming the engine up, I then proceeded to the highway where I ran locked out of OD for about 5 miles at 3200 rpm's to eliminate all the air from the HP oil system.
After returning home I immediately noticed the idle was more stable and after putting 100 or so miles on since the change, I can definitely tell a difference in the performance and idle characteristics of the engine. I used to have what I call a missing cylinder flutter sound and that has for the most part been eliminated so far. The truck also runs somewhat easier going down the highway and the cranking time which was actually normal before, is very quick now, even on initial startup in the morning. I was surprised by this because the truck actually cranked normally with no long cranking time hot or cold. I'm also interested to see if fuel mileage will fluctuate some and I'll post when and if it does indeed increase.
I wanted to post this information for some of you that are experiencing some of the characteristics my truck has been having. I'm also going to replace the ICP when I find a good price on one, but I do my truck as I do my race car and change ONE thing at a time so I'll know what the part actually did and IF it actually changed anything. Then I can go to the next step and change something else.
93turbo_animal
Registered User
thanks Russ I have Bazs site save to disc and even in my favorites and looked at it but I guess i was tired and skipped right over that part thanks
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
The last one I changed I didn't remove anything but the IPR....I never touched the fuel filter housing....Went along just fine.
camo85
smoke em out
The last one I changed I didn't remove anything but the IPR....I never touched the fuel filter housing....Went along just fine.
I tried it that way the secound time I had mine out replacing O-rings. It worked for me as well but was kind of a pita! I ended up getting kind of frustrated and rushed, and accidently broke the ICP sensor off on the head... that was an expensive mistake so be carefull to watch out for that as well!
