has anyone replaced the ignition switch before?

The key switch doesn't work correctly on my 89 f250 anymore so i bought a new one. At first i thought that plastic collar around the steering column would come off to replace the switch but after a closer look it does not seem like it would. Can anyone explain how to replace the switch? the only thing i can think of is that there is a tiny hole under the switch - do you press on that button inside there to release the switch or is there something else to do?
thanks!
Paul

I did this in my 93 . If I remember correctly, put the old key in an push something in that hole and pull to remove. you may have to turn the switch to get it to release.

GREASE FIRE said:

The key switch doesn't work correctly on my 89 f250 anymore so i bought a new one. At first i thought that plastic collar around the steering column would come off to replace the switch but after a closer look it does not seem like it would. Can anyone explain how to replace the switch? the only thing i can think of is that there is a tiny hole under the switch - do you press on that button inside there to release the switch or is there something else to do?
thanks!
Paul

Click to expand...

paul-
tilt column or not?
tilt is easy. find the hole for the pin, turn the key to the on position and push in the pin. lock comes out.
non-tilt you will have to remove the steering wheel and the turn signal assy and then you can get to the pin.

new switch, same problem....

thanks for the help. I did the swap in just a few minutes; however, i still have the same problem so i guess the switch was not bad.
Basically, it does not engage the starter (presently i am using a momentary push button switch for this) when i turn it all the way. And what seems really strange is that when i do turn it all the way, it will stay in that position rather than spring back like most switches. AND, the new one does the same thing. That means, i think, that if it did engage the starter, you could take your hand off the key and the starter would keep cranking - right?
Just to be sure i am not that crazy i went to my 6.2 step van and turned the key, cranked the starter, and took my hand off the key and it springs back to the "acc on" position, letting off the starter.

So do these switches work differently then?

Any advice on how to get this working correctly again?

thanks,
Paul

GREASE FIRE said:

thanks for the help. I did the swap in just a few minutes; however, i still have the same problem so i guess the switch was not bad.
Basically, it does not engage the starter (presently i am using a momentary push button switch for this) when i turn it all the way. And what seems really strange is that when i do turn it all the way, it will stay in that position rather than spring back like most switches. AND, the new one does the same thing. That means, i think, that if it did engage the starter, you could take your hand off the key and the starter would keep cranking - right?
Just to be sure i am not that crazy i went to my 6.2 step van and turned the key, cranked the starter, and took my hand off the key and it springs back to the "acc on" position, letting off the starter.

So do these switches work differently then?

Any advice on how to get this working correctly again?

thanks,
Paul

Click to expand...

your problem lies on the other end...down lower on the steering column. the electrical portion aka the "slider switch" is your issue. best access is to drop the column and then you have a clean shot at it. be sure that the adjustments are right on the new switch before you bolt back up the column.

Might also be that transfer bar from the lock cylinder (what you replaced, that part is not called the switch, the switch is what towcat referred to down on the column above where your feet would be when driving). There is a post with a good picture of it on here from not so long ago. They wear, break, etc. and cause similar symptoms. You can check to see if the rod running to the ignition switch (bottom of column) is moving by finding the rod with your hand that runs on top of the column, and having someone turn the key.

towcat said:

your problem lies on the other end...down lower on the steering column. the electrical portion aka the "slider switch" is your issue. best access is to drop the column and then you have a clean shot at it. be sure that the adjustments are right on the new switch before you bolt back up the column.

Click to expand...

Hmmmm, I was under the impression the above problem was because of the ignition switch actuator...this piece below
Mine has the same symptom, sometimes when the steering column is hot the starter won't engage unless I turn the key back and forth real quick.

HammerDown said:

Hmmmm, I was under the impression the above problem was because of the ignition switch actuator...this piece below
Mine has the same symptom, sometimes when the steering column is hot the starter won't engage unless I turn the key back and forth real quick.

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

That's the part I was talking about! My switch went bad and started sticking as well, I replaced the switch and fixed it.

so how do you access that part? it is hard to even picture that thing inside the steering column because of the shape - but if you say it's there i believe you!
i guess either way i will have to remove the steering column to replace that part or the electrical switch. Does anyone know how to do that? is it a major job? kind of sounds like it...

thanks,
paul

The long end of it points down the steering column and engages the rod that goes down to the ignition switch. The arched piece reaches over the side of the column and engages the end of the lock cylinder.

paul-
have you determined if you are a tilt column or a non-tilt column yet?
the piece in the pic is for tilt columns.

sle2115 said:

The long end of it points down the steering column and engages the rod that goes down to the ignition switch. The arched piece reaches over the side of the column and engages the end of the lock cylinder.

Click to expand...

You get the tilt in yet?

h2odrx said:

You get the tilt in yet?

Click to expand...

Nah, that will be down the road. I have a new seat and I'm going to fix (actually my neighbor is going to fix) the floor pans and rocker panels, etc. I'll put it all in together.

By the way, the post office was very inquisitive about that box! They all came to the front counter and said they had a bet going as to what was in it, and while I didn't have to tell them, would I? I said only if I'm included in the bet! They said ok, it's $20 bucks, and not a one of them guesses it, in fact, they didn't believe me, so I opened it at the post office! I didn't take their money, but it was a hilarious event. Even a couple customers at the counter made guesses, all incorrect as well!

Does the truck shut off and lock the steering wheel properly when key is removed? Cause I'm thinking the bolts that hold the ignition switch down at the column loosened up and the whole switch slid down a bit (it has slots, it can move up-down somewhat), enough to throw the ignition cylinder up by the wheel one position off. I'd reinstall the ignition cylinder, then put the key in and turn it to ACC till it can't turn no more, then I'd crawl unde the ash and slide the ignition switch up the column till the accessories do come on. Then tighten down the bolts for the switch, and test the key on the column, should hopefully be working fine.

HA that problem was bad for me

I had my 1989 f250 4x4 truck at the time.It was the ignition switch actuator or something along those lines, the picture is what it was above.Here is my story on that!I Was getting ready to leave for Indiana in a week from AL. I had my girlfriend move the truck down to my dads apartment and she calls me at work saying hey your truck wont start! Ahh great. Well I had budgeted a motel for the road trip up and thank god I did. I went round and round trying to get this fixed and and no one had a clew to what it was. Well I had tried 2 different igniton switches...no luck. Finally found a shop that did the work and knew what it was so I go pick up a new sterring column(75.00) and that was the only one is AL at the time...thought I lucked out...think again! I get the truck to the shop after having it towed. They call me and say hey your going to need another 300$ because the original steering column steering wheel bolts are stripped( my fault by getting a loaner steering wheel remover from advanced). Im like oh great! Well lets just say it was $400 and the steering column I picked up was junk but had to be used because of the stripped out bolts in the other one! It took a week and to make things better when the guy dropped my drive shaft to get onto the towtruck he snapped my u joint bolts and broke my brake line on the drivers side in half...ahh I suggest if you dont know what your doing to have someone do it but thats IMO. Good luck and hope you havebetter luck than I did
-Kouri