I think this is an upgrade everyone should do. There are some really good instructions online so it’s not hard at all to build your own harness.
That being said, I did not get the “night and day” results I was hoping for until I also replaced my headlight assemblies. That was probably the best...
Thanks! It was a satisfying project and it’s been awesome driving around. I’ve been backing into parking spots so I can look at the front axle as I walk back to my truck lol
Spent the last month or so completely rebuilding a 1995 Dana 60 to put in my f-250. I was told it had 4.10 gearing, but when I got into it I found 3.54 gears so I had to re-gear it as well. I’ve never done that before so it was a great learning experience. I finally put it in last weekend and it...
I D60 swapped my 89 f-250 last weekend, and now I’m looking at rear lift blocks to raise the back end since the swap raised the front end by 2ish inches. I’m seeing a lot of conflicting info online regarding whether I should get tapered lift blocks or flat ones.
It appears that at least from...
The only thing I have to add is that my oil pressure gauge also sticks and has to be flicked occasionally. It’s an Auto Gage set by Auto Meter. So the problem isn’t limited to equus.
Another upgrade you could consider is using the 1987+ rocker assemblies. They are a better design than the 1986 and down version. They are expensive to buy new though, so a good used set is what I would look for.
I wonder if the bowl gasket is leaking and causing it to suck air. You can buy replacement gaskets if it’s cracked, but I would start by making sure the bowl is tight. If you’re getting enough debris in the screen to clog it, it’s probably time to clean out your fuel tanks.
80lb line worked well for me. It needs to be thick so it doesn’t have too much extra space inside the line, plus you have to be able to push it. Let us know what you find!
That’s right, you need them all to be the same length because the high pressure pulse from the injection pump takes time to travel down the line to the injector. Depending on the year and application, some IDIs have the timing adapter on the #1 or #4 line so the line with the adapter will be...
The problem was that the #1 line in my set was the same as my original line, but the rest were all significantly longer than the old lines. That’s why I used the #1 line but not the rest.
I did eventually hear back, and they asked me to mail the lines back to them so they could check them. Unfortunately by then I had already thrown them away, except for #1 which was installed on my truck.
I still like CDD as a company and have continued to do business with them, but if I needed...
Another option could be to get a head spacer shim. Rock Auto sells a .020 shim, SBI part #2302140. It’s out of stock right now, hopefully it’s not one of those parts that’s on their website but never in stock.
How much variation in valve recession do you have across all of them?
When I did my heads I measured how deep all of my valves sat in the same hole so I could sort them thickest to thinnest, then I measured the depth of all of the seats using the same valve so I would know the relative depth of...
If you do end up doing it in the engine bay, I would buy a woodworking-style bar clamp in the right size and use that to squeeze them together. Something like this:
This one says it has 1000lb of clamping force, and it would keep things nice and straight. Let us know how it goes!
I personally would not try it this way. It took a ton of force to get the assembly pressed together, and to me that seems much easier to do outside of the engine bay.
I did mine while I was doing head gaskets though, so I haven’t had to deal with the struggle of getting it out by itself. I...
You can still buy Russ’s “torque grind” camshaft from his website. I think his family is keeping the business going. Here’s the link:
https://russrepair.com/engine-parts/torque-grind-camshaft/
R&D sells an upgraded cam as well, but I think it’s meant for turbo engines.
As for MPG...
As far as general rebuilding tips for these engines, Justin At R&D has a YouTube channel called RacinNdrummin. He has a 4 part series where he shares a lot of knowledge while he builds an engine, I learned a lot from it.
I had another thought about this: If you wire your cold idle advance circuit to a toggle switch you can engage it any time you’re running WMO and gain a couple degrees of timing advance.
If that’s not enough you can install a fuel pressure regulator and turn up/down the pressure to the IP. I...
Here’s the parts list
Dynomax 55291 passenger Y pipe
Dynomax 55293 driver Y pipe
Dynomax 31967 flange
Dynomax 53284
Flowmaster 71249 muffler
Walker 66044 tailpipe
I used walker mega clamps and various hangers, plus some exhaust sealant on the slip fit joints that weren’t welded.
I just finished installing a new exhaust system last week and I’m super happy with it. I went with the a Dynomax Y pipe which is 3” and all mandrel bends, a matching Dynomax intermediate pipe, a flow master flow FX flow through muffler, and a walker 3” tailpipe which is also mandrel bent and...
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