I have removed the ball joint by hitting the part where the u-joint goes through the axle. This is 90 degrees from the centerline of the joint finger. It works.
I had my last Detroit Diesel back in 1985. It was a 2 cycle 8V92TA rated at 425 hp and it was really a screaming Jimmy!!! I don't miss it much. I like the lower rpms in today's diesel engines. Dump the clutch and you are in the power curve.
Have you tested the glow plugs? Take a test light and attach the ground to the positive post of the battery and then place the test tip on each glow plug. If it lights up they are good. No light, no joy. If you replace the glow plug(s) use Motorcraft ZD-9 of Beru glow plugs only! The others...
The lower the compression psi, the more likely you will start to have starting problems. I have not been able to get a number for you. Google is your friend.
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-compression-pressure-in-diesel-engine?share=1
After doing some checking it looks like 400 psi is pretty good for a 7.3.
Post the numbers you get. Asking us to give you the values on an unknown engine is impossible. Your compression numbers should be within 15% of each other for a good engine.
I am going to disagree with The Gill Fish on glow plugs. USE ONLY Motorcraft or Beru glow plugs. All the others can swell as time goes by and are almost impossible to remove without removing the head(s). But it is YOUR truck, so use what ever you want.
The timing marks are on the mounting surface (timing chain cover) where the two meet. You should see a mark on the pump and marks on the cover. I don't currently own a 7.3 truck so I can't show you.
Check the glow plugs with a light. Place the "ground" connection, of the light, to the + of the battery. Now take the probe and touch each tip of the glow plugs. If it lights up it is good. If it does not light up, no good. The glow circuit cycling quickly is the clue.
Did you fill the oil filter before you put it in? If not this is why no oil pressure. The #1995 style oil filter is BIG! Remove the glow plugs and crank it some more.
Normally you only need a hose from the intake manifold to the wastgate actuator. That simple, no T's needed. Where does the other hose off the T go to? A dash gauge for boost?
Diesel engines do NOT produce vacuum. You can rev it to the redline and no vacuum. This is why there are vacuum pumps for the brakes and/or the Heater/AC. The wastegate is boost operated, as 79jasper stated.
No you do NOT have to pull the dash to get to the heater core. Just remove the glovebox and you are there. Remove the heater box cover and you are golden.
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