Doesn't affect it. Btw, don't use crimp connectors or solder on the wiring. The wires are made of different material and once cut can basically only be twisted back together, unless you use a special solder. I can't recall all the details, but I'm sure someone else will chime in on that.
As long as it's the same generation and engine/trans combo, it's plug and play. You'll just have to add in the 4wd harness (plugs in) and use your gauge cluster.
The harbor fright one is exactly the same, but apparently doesn't lack a check valve. Guess I'm boned. Just don't have the cash for one. This thread can be deleted.
Just tried to use my SECOND 1000psi compression tester from ebay (because I can't afford one that costs as much as a head job). And again, this one does the EXACT same thing. Testing via the GP holes, the needle bounces to only about 150psi and immediately drops back down to 0psi. No leaks...
That's the point I was getting at. Using a cheap little Hayden fan controller with a threaded temp probe (I don't trust external contact ones) would be a cheap, easy way to control the fan. Setting it to kick on a tad sooner is very easy and they shut off at a pre-determined temperature relative...
I used the 40222. Made a bracket to mount it on the inner fender so it's isolated from engine vibration. The relay that triggers it is mounted on said bracket, FSS wire is tapped with a splice connector (not the best way to do it) and the relay is triggered via a 3-prong oil pressure switch that...
Yeah, castle cap thing and cotter pin on it. Not sure how I forgot about that. Haynes says 22-25 ft/lbs, spin hub forward, insure torque is still within spec, then loosen 1/8 of a turn and tighten hand tight. I basically just left it at 25 ft/lbs and backed it off maybe 1/16 of a turn. Not...
Isn't the whole point of having an electric fan that it's off and not creating any resistance for the engine when it's not needed? Otherwise, I seem to remember a mod on here awhile ago about getting the stock clutch to engage at a lower temperature.
I have an evap canister and at least one uncut A/C line if you want the A/C back. Word of warning, check the condenser and make sure none of the little tubes are cracked or broken off.
Good point. Maybe mill 2 small slots opposite each other on the 40mm side so it could be removed with a simple piece of angle iron of the appropriate thickness cut to fit?
As for a controller, I'd use a simple, universal controller with the probe in a head plug and use it to drive a seperate...
Subscribing to this one. It would be ideal to be able to use the 6.4 electric clutch with the IDI fan bolted to it. As for mating it to the water pump, what about a threaded adapter that can be installed with a spanner? 1 1/4-16 inside threads, 40mm-2.0 outside threads and a small few holes in...
Yup, wheel bearings on both sides loose. I'm not really sure how they've loosened up or if I followed some BS instructions online when I torqued them. Re-torqued them per the Haynes instructions and left them just a touch tight since they've been slopping around for awhile. Hopefully this helps...
Take the breaker out of the equation by putting both cables on the same breaker stud. I did the same thing, pulled my less than a month old alternator off in the AZ parking lot and tested it. It failed all 3 tests. I tested a new reman off the shelf to insure it was good and used the electric...
My old belt seemed tight, but had more to go before it actually stopped squealing. That was just a bandaid until I could get a new one, which helped. If it's still squealing with the belt as tight as it will go out a new belt, then it may be bearing squeal.
Haven't been able to get it off the ground to test that yet, but when rocking the suspension (pushing up on running board), there was only the slightest amount of wiggle. Maybe 1/2" max. I first noticed it while looking at the inside bead of the wheel in relation to the knuckle. That's when I...
Found the source of a suspension squeak that I've been chasing for a good while. Turns out it's actually the passenger side caliper squeaking when the suspension cycles. WTH is up with that? I'm kind of thinking the spindle nut has loosened up and it's bearing play or something? Final torque for...
I know the Haynes diesel manual says to turn each head bolt on the 6.9/7.3 in reverse order of tightening when removing heads by 90* until the bolts are out.
So according to these instructions, would you torque then to 125 ft/lbs 3 times, or 3 steps of 41.6(repeating) ft/lbs up to 125? I've never seen head bolt or stud torque directions not specify the exact torque of each step.
Hopefully picking up a Harbor Freight 2 ton stand this week and getting the engine hung on it. I'm feeling more confident that my charging issue was a result of the breaker inline with the charging cables. Planning to replace it with a mega fuse and holder on down the line. After making a few...
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