Like it says, helper airbags are about to go in the rear. I am also going to install new leaf spring bushings at that time.
Since weight carrying won't be a problem with the bags, should I Pull the overload spring? What abut pulling it a spring from the leaf pack? Looking for a little...
Email them. They are supposed to send a 4 line clamp too, but didn't with my set. A quick eBay message had a 4 line clamp in the mail the next day. And then another one a week later!(they forgot they sent the first one)
Looking up some serial number info seems to show some things about you factory turbo engine.
I also found this info.
Block c/n 10809000C1 was used for the entire 7.3L IDI years of production. The serial numbers for naturally aspirated applications are 500,079 through 1,116,330.
So...
Last question I have. Promise.
Does your 16 inch wheel clear the caliper diameter wise, or are the calipers mounted inboard of the actual wheel. Wonder if the drw wheels and the offset would clear them.
Btw, research seems to show they are 1976-78 Cadillac eldorado calipers.
Nice, so we could get some of the width by moving the mount plate outboard of the flange, the make a spacer to take up the rest....
If you need replacement calipers in the future, do you know what they came from?
So, Brian, your brackets bolt to the original flange the backing plate bolted to. On the hub side or the inside?
Looks like you could add a spacer of the appropriate thickness to make up for the extra width of the drw and go.
I am seriously going to go this route after a few measurement...
Brian, do you have any pictures of the set up is installed on your truck? I want to look at how it is installed then do some measurements between a dual rear wheel and I think I'll rear wheel axle to make sure that is all we need.
This might throw another twist in it.
I have a 93 model NA engine. It has the larger oil port in the rear of the block.
The best way to tell if you have a factory turbo block is the engine is number. NA will start with 7.3D and turbo will start with 7.3T.
What was the 8th vin of...
Wonder if I could adapt it to a drw application. If I am thinking right, the mount bracket would need to move outward 1/2 inch to make the difference on the srw and drw brake show width.....
Brian, did you put this kit on your truck? I seem to remember this. How do you like it?
Did you need a proportions get valve? I have the large bore h-boost master cylinder and it wears my rear shoes quicker than I think it should....
4.10s are your killer over 60 mph.
If I tow my travel trailer 55 mph, I can get 14 or so. 65 mph and I am down at 10. Anything over 2200 rpm or so eats the fuel quickly.
Just the way it is for me...
If it makes you feel any better, I did the exact same thing. Broke the positive terminal off the starter when I was installing the new cable. I did, however, have an extra starter I pulled off a junk engine ready to go. That top bolt is a booger, but it can be removed with the right combo of...
I used a positive cable from oreilly
Works great so far.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?70245-Superstart-(oreilly-s)-battery-cable-review&highlight=
I had mine replaced in my driveway for 155 bucks. They came and did it all and it is warranted against leaks.
A tube of the proper urethane is 25 bucks too, so if you are buying a windshield to install yourself, figure in that cost.
If you know anyone who can cut out a urethane...
I voted for Kentucky. We have family actually moving back to taylorsville today. He was in seminary in Louisville, and had to move back here for three years due to illness. Now, they are heading back into music ministry in taylorsville. So, I will be able to make it a double vacation! Thanks...
Let me do some checking in my evtm. The pin out on the cluster harness might be different. The exciter circuit for the alternator runs through the charge light in the gauge cluster. I will do some looking when I get home. Was your truck originally and diesel? Or was the engine swapped without...
So, just to be clear, the alcoas you have are srw, not the dually ones in the picture on the supercab, right?
One of these days I will find a set of dually alcoas.
Do you plan on setting the timing with a meter or just by ear?
If you ever make it down to central Arkansas, I would be happy to throw my meter on it and set it exactly.
Gauges could be a bad ground. The gauge cluster is grounded behind the drivers side kick panel. Pull the plastic cover and look for a bunch of wires bolted down with a green bolt. Take it off and clean everything with cleaner or sandpaper to make sure it has a nice clean connection.
Glow...
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