Some reading I've done on the Blackstone Labs website implies/suggests that unless you plan to run an extended OCI that most motor oils perform about the same and that the larger differences are only observable over greater mileage. Basically, if you change oil & filter 3k-5k then any oil of...
A while back I thought I had a front main seal leaking but it turned out to be a leak at the mechanical lift pump. It's amazing how air movement affects the travel of oil on the engine.
Even though my Facet 40223 performs fine for me with fuel turned up 1.5 flats I still would recommend the OP switch to something else if the pump is a dud.. Probably best to have a little more pressure than needed from the pump and just regulate it 5-7psi.
But come to think of it, my truck will...
The Tech Time units on ebay are a good deal if your only other option is to pay a shop. I bought one a few months ago and it works great. They are still made by the company DTI, makers of the TinyTach, so parts and support are available if there's a problem. Also, the company's founder seems...
I think 141k is a lot of miles if pump and IP are original. Recommend adjust timing only with the proper meter. This thread might help you: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/timing-question-for-high-altitude.70017/
Without knowing which pump you used I would venture a guess that it is a pump designed to push fuel instead of pulling it. Also definitely sounds like an air leak. Maybe install a check valve to prevent drainback?
Drilling and tapping the manifold while in the truck ain't that hard. I managed to do it and it was literally the first time I'd ever tapped threads--I'm sure a brand new tap and drill bits helped. No problems several years later. N/A so didn't have to worry about shavings getting into the...
I hope that truck finds a good home. A clean regular cab dually 4x4 diesel is pretty hard to find in my neck of the woods. Heck, I'd buy it just to hold on to it 'till I found the right person to love, honor, and cherish it.
If you have a manual trans then you don't need a tach. I hear some people have had good luck with the Dorman replacements if a JY part isn't in the cards. I tried cleaning mine but no luck--then about 1.5 years later the tach started working again but only for a few months.
Found this from Blackstone Labs https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Aug-17-ENG.pdf
It's not an oil recommendation but I thought it was interesting.
This probably isn't your problem, but, I once had a very noticeable tick and it turned out to be a starter where the gear/Bendix that extends to engage the flywheel failed and was making contact with the flywheel while driving. Like I said probably not your issue but a lot better than an engine...
If you have difficulty removing the old plugs I suggest a liberal dose of penetrating oil and gently twist the plug back and forth to work the oil into the threads. If you can't break it free initially then soak the plug in penetrating oil and be patient.
On the touching of the return lines all I can say is I did once cause myself a big leak when I accidentally disturbed a return line that had probably been in place for at least 50k based on POs receipts. I actually carry a spare return line kit in the center console just in case. The rubber...
Welcome to the site.
If you're worried about the coolant you could either just drain and replace it with fresh Fleetcharge which already has SCAs added, or buy some coolant test strips which will indicate the presence or absence of SCAs.
As to timing it is best to have it timed with the...
Do you have a cooling problem or just wanting to be precise?
I don't know the answer to your question, but I do know that you don't need a coolant overflow or a 100% full radiator. No coolant overflow bottle for the last 3.5 years and no overheating with a slightly under-filled 2-row aluminum...
Here's an exploded view that should help a little. Hope the link works
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/1531x1088/image_08bba84a8c953c79b8fe8b275355a02ae8b87aef.jpeg
A quick search for "ATS 093 install" will get you a detailed instruction PDF from ATS.
Did you replace just the 7 injectors you noticed as bad or did you replace all 8?
Does the smoke dissipate quickly or does the cloud linger?
Also, when you say you checked the compression what were the numbers?
When you're cranking and it won't start do you get any white smoke out of the exhaust? I'm wondering if fuel is draining back and I'm assuming you still have the stock mechanical fuel pump. Pretty sure IF fuel was draining back then that would also suck some air in. Just some pre-coffee...
In my experience it doesn't take all that much heat to deform PVC. I would choose something more durable. Even the plastic heater hose connectors deform and begin to get gooey from the hot coolant.
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