I was just thinking if it’s apart why not swap the pump to a known pump. I’m not sure I’d want to take the lines off twice or three times as I might do..
I figured pump and lines and then if they still not cleared up then injectors.
Timing has to be adjusted any time you change the pump right?
I never saw it run before getting it home. I had it running while hanging from a chain. There was certainly a puff of white smoke coming from the drivers side manifold every few rounds. But it seemed good otherwise.
Does it take very long to change the fuel pumps? I just figure maybe my pump...
So I recently swapped motors. Two things I may have over looked. The injectors look recently installed due to having a gun metal finish. The injection pump has a reman tag on it but it’s mostly corrosion rust colored..not pitted or anything just surface rust.
I went to install the factory...
I’m a 30 something year old and I only Use Facebook for marketplace..and they think I’m some 45 yr old non bianary women named Andy,.I won’t give them anymore than I need to. They track every sell and purchase and comment.
I’ve been a diesel forum reader for years. Competition diesel was my...
So I’ve driven it a mile or so and it seems to have a steady smoking..cold starts aren’t the best...we’re talking 12* nights..it fires right up, just sounds a bit rougher than I remember.
A steady haze at idle which is very noticeable in the cold. It also sounds a bit knockish now..but it...
Well the engine has been sitting for some random amount of time before I got it..I started it up on a chain and then decided it was ok. So I started changing out the old gaskets..then it sat for a bit longer while I sorted out the new flexplate for a factory turbo motor. Justin at r&d hooked me...
I just took laser temperature of the injectors..it’s all over the place. I hit them on the flats you’d put a wrench on. The rear drivers side was 225 and the front was 120..I had a range of 70* to 225*
The timing marks are about a dime to a nickel apart..pump turned towards passenger side...
So I’ve got it running now.. but still steaming off the coolant that sprayed on the motor..also I have just a slight white haze at idle..perhaps the timing needs to be adjusted?
Also is there any way to see how much coolant I currently have in there?
What’s the best method to drain and save...
The injector isn’t the leaking one..I’ll hit it with the temp gun today and report back. They look relatively new and have a gun metal color..my other engine was more of a rust color. But for all I know they were some cheapo injectors..it’s also got a reman turbo and injection pump, new return...
When I searched for replacement parts they seem to be around $250 dollars? For that price it’s not worth rebuilding at home right? I was half thinking it’d be a good little side business just fixing up old style injectors. Set up a small Amish style shed as a shop and don’t dabble in anything...
I’ve got some clean up to do after a big storm last night but after that we’ll go fire it back up and take a look.
I’m pretty sure I’ve got a leak between the pump and front case..so if it’s for sure leaking I’ll pick up aviation gasket while in Napa getting the new gasket.
Have you guys ever...
So I filled it up with 4 bottles of straight rotella elc and started adding my bottles of distilled..I was going to go for 4.9 coolant-rest water.
I left the cap off for a while and just let it idle..I then let it get nice and warm..I didn’t notice a significant drop in fluid level and thought...
Thanks for the input I’ll try to learn from the mistake.
-I used black gasket maker with paper gaskets where supplied. I thoroughly cleaned the mating surfaces and vacuum/cleaned surfaces with solvent before mating. I clearly messed up somewhere while installing the new pump and I’m getting a...
What would be needed to get set up to rebuild injectors? I’m not interested in hearing the whole 100k dollar clean room yada yada..but injectors like ours..
Perhaps reading up on it, investing in a bit of equipment and small clean room? Pop tester..if one could do these style injectors found on...
Hey thanks! I just was running it..for sure leaking, I found a small seep at the top drivers side on the pump.
Also I made a stupid mistake. I got the truck up to operating temp and I saw the radiator steaming along the top edge..(I had it flushed and tested..so I guess I’ll call the shop)
So...
So I’ve got the new water pump on and the replacement engine in and running! But I clearly forgot to add sealant to the 4 water pump bolts. I have a slow leak and im wondering do I need to drain the coolant down and then rtv the bolts? Or can I just put on some thread tape and leave the system full?
I just asked this in another thread but I just replaced all of my lines, pump and box..my high pressure line with the plastic oring rotates easily in the pump side. Is it supposed to be like that or does it snug up. Perhaps I’m missing an oring somewhere
I just changed mine out, now my high pressure power steering line rotates around in the pump after being tightness up with the nylon oring. Are they suppose to rotate easily or snug up?
After reading a bit today it looks like the hard white ring is a Teflon coated oring and goes into the pump. But I have no place to put the small oring.
So I’ve got two new lines and a new pump and gears..I have a little baggie of orings. One hard plastic oring and a small black rubber ring. Which line do these go on and where?
You paying the fuel to get there and back?
I lost my motor in April. I might just be getting back in next week. It’s a wild card idit with 158k but I had it running while chained up.
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