Block off plate had a light seeping but there is a definite leak above that. I would think valve cover but it doesn't leak anywhere I can see. The only place I can't see is the part right behind the filter head bracket but if nowhere else is leaking I wouldn't think it to only leak there? Plus...
This is the passenger side front of engine, it's leaking what appears to be bolt going into the bottom of the bracket holding the vacuum pump bracket. Can any of the bolts on the front around here pass in a area that can leak oil?
I now think it was coming from the bottom bolt hole but it can't hurt to have a new water pump though it looks not as well. The gap between impellers and the housing of the water pump was like 1/8th inch vs my old one like maybe 1/64th between the blades and housing of pump. Seem so to Be...
Clutch came off with the kit I borrow from a friend of mines shop the "proper" tools made it easy lol after that it took me 4 hours before I drove again with a new pump, old one had a very very small amount of play in it, I'm suspecting that it was leaking from the bolt that goes into the...
So got new water pump, use the gasket that came with it or just use the right stuff? the gasket that came with it looks cheap and looks to have been folded. Will the right stuff work on the threads that need to be sealed? Water pump also came with new shorter bolts that shows were to put them...
Yeah so it stopped leaking then started again after 100 mile trip yesterday. So it's water pump time tomorrow morning! Anything special I need to looks out for or is it quick and easy change out?
Well I maybe have lucked out for now because my heater hose thTs pretty old blew up on my way to work with no over heat so I think it may have been leaking down the size of the block and dripimg off the front of the block looking like my water pump went out so I'll be seeing after work tonight
v belt system, so alternator acted like belt was slipping charging low the other day and belt looks like trash, changed belt and I believe I probably over tightened it. Anyway water pump started leaking out weep hole yesterday and I'm gonna try loosening the belt up a little today and see if it...
Well it drives better now, everything feels nice like a normal persons vehicle again that rear end And having the proper tools to tighten it all down right helped a lot. Before this when I would take off it feel like bouncing on a trampoline,everything was moving around back there on just normal...
Springfield Oregon, truck drives so much better now, no more clunking feels a lot more solid with u bolts correctly installed and a rear end without 1 inch of play in the gears lol and the limited slip seems to work alright at least on the gravel. But it might need some new brakes and a diff...
Well after arguing with it for a while it's in there, so between the two swaps from 88-93 the 90 has larger wheel cylinder fittings so I had to make an adapter from my old stuff to the new axle because the one had a kink in it from them pulling it. U joint was correct from earlier post so that's...
Those boxes work just fine for their turbo they came on. People think that they get more power without them because turbo noises increase sometimes without then and a "cold" air intake they made
They have a full shop and i will have help there and a source of any extra parts needed basically my buddy recently bought the whole yard and it's obs and bricknose heaven lol I plan on bleeding brakes there and bolting everything up, the only thing I don't know for sure is u joints but I live...
Yeah not really looking for a locker was trying to save money by not having to tear into a rear end and time by buying a conversion joint or weird ended joint so everything just bolts in, the limited slip idea Is simply because I think it might end up with a little better chance of traction...
I just wanted to choose the limited slip since it was my pick pf any axle in the yard, plus this one looked to Ben on the most well take my care of truck there and was cleaner looking. Not looking for it to Be a super crazy locking axle but having both tires move in some gravel inclines would be...
Main reason i want limited Ian because on gravel log roads it's a one tire dryer needing 4x4 on a gentle incline lol so sounds like I should be able to get this attached easily I have friends that's work at advanced auto so I can use their computers to search what I want and take parts to test...
@BR3 thats no excact answere i was looking for! I think my current axle has a short yoke and new one has a long one but my goal was basically to get a conversion join so I didn't have to remove yoke and mess up the pinion bearing load and crush sleeve, want to bolt it in instead of messing...
Yes my truck has 1350 ones slightly bigger than the yoke on my first one. I swapped yokes unknowing of the issues with crush sleeves as I was mis informed before and destroyed this rear end in 20k. If this one has the smaller f250 u joint can I get a conversion joint? How do I know what one to...
Yes both 355, I have my pick from the yard for 150 and this is the best looking one, appears to have new seals and recent drums on it. Instead of shortening driveline could I just lift truck? I already plan on a lift anyway
my 10.25 is goin out in my 88 f350 4x4 , I can get a limited slip out of a 92 f250 2x4 for cheap will it work for my truck? Salvage yard says it should. I may need a conversion I joint though?
The kit will not fit, the turbo alone maybe fit a idi with a early banks kit. But it's possible the wheels and everything are smaller on it because the two motors are almost a liter different in size
Oh, I noticed it was way closer than my first pump, basically any throttle applied and it's gonna me moving it almost couldn't be any closer to the roller that activated it without it starting to engage. Idk if I should be messing with it though idk If is under warrantee still or not I don't...
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