Do you have a link to the valves you used and a picture of it installed?
My Ranger valve bypasses and I still get hot coolant circulating through the core.
Hauled a yard of 1.5 stone for some new planters. Approx 2600lbs. Plus my tool box and auxiliary fuel tank.
The overloads hadn't seen that much weight...probably ever. The tires had 50psi in them and it would have felt much more planted with the full 80psi.
All good stuff fellas, thanks for the replies.
My main question is this;
By placing the shifter in 1st or 2nd did I cause the transmission to push ATF past the front torque converter seal or would it have done it in Drive as well?
I have a BTS transmission with dual coolers and the trans has never gotten much over 200*.
I hauled a 6,5000 lb travel trailer up Parleys canyon (6% grade) to test out my new engine and get a feel for how everything was getting along.
After reaching the summit and turning around I accelerated...
I seem to remember that placing the shifter in 1st or 2nd does more that simply causing the tranny to start off and hold that gear.
I thought it did something to the fluid circuitry and was undesirable if really working the truck on a grade or when loaded up?
Am I high in the night?
My experience is that you will always get some measure of oil pooling at the turbo inlet, right in the depression of the filter hat to turbo boot.
My new engine has significantly less pooling than my original but aside from the acceptable blow by there is the coalescing of the hot oil vapors...
It sounds pretty good to me. If anything it sounds a little harsh and power strokey which would indicate advanced timing but that seems unlikely as new injectors should want to crack open at a higher psi than old units.
Have you had it out on the road?
Where did you source the injectors from?
Yes. I had the same thing happen. No damage occurred to the flex plate or bolts but I thought for sure the transfer case was coming apart.
I re-torqued them with a dab of red loctite and all has been well.
I got the transmission removed to access the rear of the engine.
The driver side freeze plug was not square in the bore causing it to sweep when warm. I was able to duplicate with a idiling engine and using the block heater.
I installed a new plug with some Ultra Black.
The passenger side...
I had an identical issue with my new engine, GP's and injectors.
I thought surely the head was cracked or the GP had an internal leak.
Nope. The injector nozzle to body threads were slightly loose and allowing fuel to fill up the injector bore and dribble overboard into the GP well.
Remove...
I'm going to guess and say, yes. ULSD is just as destructive to NOS, new or rebuilt injectors as the OEM units.
I just don't see the demand for suppliers to re-tool, re-engineer or spec new materials for these old dogs.
IMO our best bet is to keep the fuel filter fresh and drained of water...
I run the yellow Bilstein 4600's. I've been happy with them.
If you place a set in your cart on shockwarehouse.com and wait around a discount code usually pops up.
Ditto what Wes said, also the injector threads are not liquid tight so any oil or coolant or whatever that sits on the injectors long enough will end up in the bore and get cooked.
I am always impressed by the generosity of the OB members. I recieved Knuckledragger's driver and it is in perfect shape.
I'd love a copy of the drawings should you come across them.
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